difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model

   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model #2  
I think the only major change is the linkage for the MMM is very narrow at the rear of the 3PT on the new models.

Greg
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model #3  
There are a number of differences.

The engines are different versions of the same model, but there are both internal and external differences, including different oil pump arrangements and glow plugs on the newer engine.

The electrical systems are different. The older 2520 came standard with a 20A alternator that couldn't always keep the battery charged and run all the lighting. The optional 40A alternator became standard on the newer models, which also added a cigar plug accessory power outlet.

The earlier 2520 had 3PH arms that were known to make contact with the tires, which could lead to tire damage or severe mechanical failure of the final drives under the right circumstances. The later arms are designed to eliminate that problem. Some of the earlier 2520's had their's replaced by Deere.

I think those are the major differences. I wouldn't be scared off from an earlier model by any means. But I might factor in the cost of replacing the 3PH arms if they are not of the newer style.
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model
  • Thread Starter
#4  
thanks pdp.. I have an 07, I was one of the 1st here to have the new 3pt arms installed. it has been a great tractor, although I only have 126hrs on it!
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model
  • Thread Starter
#5  
DSC_0067.jpg
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Silly me, I was worried about a tiller
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model #8  
Not a difference on the 2520, but I do like the decals better on your 200CX than on the new ones.
 

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   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model #9  
The electrical systems are different. The older 2520 came standard with a 20A alternator that couldn't always keep the battery charged and run all the lighting. The optional 40A alternator became standard on the newer models, which also added a cigar plug accessory power outlet.

The earlier 2520 had 3PH arms that were known to make contact with the tires, which could lead to tire damage or severe mechanical failure of the final drives under the right circumstances. The later arms are designed to eliminate that problem. Some of the earlier 2520's had their's replaced by Deere.


I've never had an issue with keeping the battery on mine charged. That's the first time I have heard of a 20A alternator not being sufficiant to keep the battery topped off.

I also don't remember seeing anything about lower 3pt arms causing failure of the final drive. I would think the tire would yield before metal parts would. The most damage I have seen caused by the bad 3pt arm design was worn off lugs on the tires.

Tom
 
   / difference btwn '07 2520 and '11 model #10  
tomd999 said:
I've never had an issue with keeping the battery on mine charged. That's the first time I have heard of a 20A alternator not being sufficiant to keep the battery topped off.

I also don't remember seeing anything about lower 3pt arms causing failure of the final drive. I would think the tire would yield before metal parts would. The most damage I have seen caused by the bad 3pt arm design was worn off lugs on the tires.

Tom

When I was first researching the 2520, I had read a number of comments from others about the 20A alternator not keeping up and advising that the 40A alternator was worth adding. Clearly Deere/Yanmar thought it really needed the 40A alternator as standard, especially with the cigar outlet.

There was quite a long thread here about an owner that had repeated final drive failures. Based on the pictures he took of the damage, it seemed to point to the 3PH arm getting tangled with the rear tire to the point of causing the final drive to rip itself apart.
 

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