Diesel Fume Odor

[5030]

The outboard filters is 35 bucks at the dealer for the conventional filter and the carbon filter is about 80 bucks.

 

[rScotty]

I know it's a late report, but when I sent the tractor to my dealer for annual service, I asked him to investigate the strong fume odor.
They said he found no exhaust leak and nothing else wrong. But could not explain why the smell was in the cab.
They told me the mechanic started it and let it run for a half hour and did smell the odor in te cab, but didn't think it was severe.

I still need to change the exhaust pipe on mine. The way it is set up now, the exhaust is directed towards the inside of the left front tire & wheel.
From there it bounces back to the engine compartment where the fan blows it back at the operator. At least it's diluted a little.

But what I'm saying is you might want to check that it isn't something simple like the exhaust being forced against the cab, especially in the front where there are holes in the cab forwiring, steering, and pedals.
rScotty

 

[JWR]

Thanks. My B2150 had a vertical pipe that could be rotated 90 degree and make it horizontal. It gave you more clearance in an Orchard setting if you needed it.

The way the exhaust is now is as you said and all the fumes are low and blow on the front left wheel.

Kind of a dumb setup.

Thasnks again

It was a nice feature.

And yes, if someone eventually makes an adapter to make the exhaust on my B3000 vertical, I'd probably get it.

Tim -- I have 2 B2150's, both with vertical exhaust. Certainly the vulnerability to limbs and such can be a problem with the vertical stack. My larger tractor is a low profile MF which comes with exhaust going out low in theback under the 3pt lift area. I put a angled exhaust tip on it. Both B2150 are open station so no cab to accumulate any fumes. I have one very strange experience with these two tractors. The one I've had for 30+ years has a "very sweet smell" to it after it gets good and warm. Almost a tasty enticing smell to it. The other one (only had for a few years) has no such smell. Never been able to find how/why the difference. Anyone know ??

 

[5030]

Tim -- I have 2 B2150's, both with vertical exhaust. Certainly the vulnerability to limbs and such can be a problem with the vertical stack. My larger tractor is a low profile MF which comes with exhaust going out low in theback under the 3pt lift area. I put a angled exhaust tip on it. Both B2150 are open station so no cab to accumulate any fumes. I have one very strange experience with these two tractors. The one I've had for 30+ years has a "very sweet smell" to it after it gets good and warm. Almost a tasty enticing smell to it. The other one (only had for a few years) has no such smell. Never been able to find how/why the difference. Anyone know ??

Probably anti freeze coming out the overflow and smelling sweet.

 

[JWR]

Probably anti freeze coming out the overflow and smelling sweet.

Goodness gracious 5030 ! It is only after very warm to hot. I never thought it smelled like antifreeze, but boy you got me wondering now! This phenom has been going on for many years...

 

[Fallon]

Probably anti freeze coming out the overflow and smelling sweet.

My first thought as well.

 

[JWR]

My first thought as well.

5030 and Fallon: That is logical (and I had not thought of it) but this unique smell has gone on for many years during which I've checked the antifreeze numerous times and flushed it at least once. Also I usually recognize antifreeze smell immediately and did not -- which doesn't prove a thing ! Mind not in tune ?? I will say it does not smell quite like the very familiar anti-freeze smell , but now that you guys mention it maybe it is similar. A problem is the tractor is 260 miles away and I get to work it about once a month. Will certainly inspect overflow and any sign of leaks, etc. next chance. Tks guys.

 

[5030]

I very long shot could be a deceased mouse wedged somewhere in an exhaust manifold crevice, one that consumed mouse killer before dying. Slow cooking dead mice with pesticide in them can also smell sweet....:laughing::laughing:

 

[TimP]

The outboard filters is 35 bucks at the dealer for the conventional filter and the carbon filter is about 80 bucks.

Hi 5030.

I have been searching for a charcoal filter to replace the standard one, and can't find it.

Is it a Kubota brand or an aftermarket?

In any event, a charcoal version isn't coming up in my google searches.

Can you share the name of the company that sells one?

Thanks !

 

[5030]

Hi 5030.

I have been searching for a charcoal filter to replace the standard one, and can't find it.

Is it a Kubota brand or an aftermarket?

In any event, a charcoal version isn't coming up in my google searches.

Can you share the name of the company that sells one?

Thanks !

I do quite a bit of spraying and I got mine from my dealer and it's a Kubota item. If you cannot get one from your dealer, I can give you the name and number of mine. I'm sure they would send you one. PM me.

I have a feeling that it's a Donaldson filter but not 100% sure. Don't say Donaldson anywhere on it.

 

[TimP]

PM Sent !

 

[TimP]

Yesterday, I tried my luck at dropping the "Inner Roof", not too bad, but still awkward to do.

Then I started to remove the bolts to the outer roof. The Shop manual indicated that there were only 4 bolts to remove..... WRONG !

After I removed the 4 obvious bolts as indicated in the SM, the roof didn't want to come off. I assumed that there was some sort of double sticky tape holding it down, so I tried more force.

Not a god idea..... I ended up breaking out one of the bolt inserts before I realized that there were around 10 bolts to remove.

The hardest part was fiddling with the mounted radio. It was tough to unplug it and remove it alone. Another pair of hands would have been a really big help.

Once all was unhooked, I was able to remove the roof by myself.

Then, I tried to open up the A/C cover. NOPE! Once again, much more to have to undo in order to get to the evaporator. Screws, bolts and clips, plus having to unhook a couple of control cables.

By then, a storm was brewing in the distance and I decided this was all above my pay grade and put it all back together without ever being able to see if the evaporator was fouled up.

The hardest part of re-assembly, was the inner roof. It took a lot of fiddling to get things to line up properly. Then, of course, the dreaded radio mount didn't want to cooperate either.

It was a complete waste of about 4 hours.

Anyway..... my dealer is picking up the unit next Wednesday to repair a seal leak on the front wheel, so maybe I'll have him take it all apart.

Problem is, I know it would cost a bundle and not sure if it needs it or not. When I had to roof off, the blower fan looked pretty darned clean, so maybe the rest of it is OK.

That's my story !

 

[5030]

There is no need to remove the inner roof (headliner) at all. If you had followed my instructions you would have been fine and yes, there are 10 Phillips headed threaded screws that secure my roof and yours too obviously. Every other one on the inside The shorter ones secure the headliner to the ROPS structure, the longer ones go through the headliner and ROPS to secure the roof which has huck style threaded inserts in it.

I hope your dealer and you have a good working relationship and you have instructed him as to your wishes because if you forced the roof and cracked it where the huck fastener goes in the inner panel, the ONLY cure it to either fiberglass the crack and reseat the insert or replace the entire roof and the Roof, for mine at least is $1800.00

Just because the blower and fan 'looks' clean don't mean the HX which is enclosed in the housing is clean. You cannot see that without removing ALL the screws that secure the upper housing to the lower housing and unplugging all the Molex connectors and even then access is limited (again, in my instructions on OTT.) The most access you will get without serious plumbing work will br about 6 inches but that is more than adequate to clean the HX, again using my instructions on OTT.

Good luck. You will need it and maybe a good bank balance.

You should never force anything, especially a plastic roof panel. The roof comes right off once you remove ALL the long screws.

My dealer (Carleton Farm Supply) does not stock the filter for your unit in activated carbon, only pleated paper. I called them yesterday.

 

[TimP]

There is no need to remove the inner roof (headliner) at all. If you had followed my instructions you would have been fine and yes, there are 10 Phillips headed threaded screws that secure my roof and yours too obviously. Every other one on the inside The shorter ones secure the headliner to the ROPS structure, the longer ones go through the headliner and ROPS to secure the roof which has huck style threaded inserts in it.

I hope your dealer and you have a good working relationship and you have instructed him as to your wishes because if you forced the roof and cracked it where the huck fastener goes in the inner panel, the ONLY cure it to either fiberglass the crack and reseat the insert or replace the entire roof and the Roof, for mine at least is $1800.00

Just because the blower and fan 'looks' clean don't mean the HX which is enclosed in the housing is clean. You cannot see that without removing ALL the screws that secure the upper housing to the lower housing and unplugging all the Molex connectors and even then access is limited (again, in my instructions on OTT.) The most access you will get without serious plumbing work will br about 6 inches but that is more than adequate to clean the HX, again using my instructions on OTT.

Good luck. You will need it and maybe a good bank balance.

You should never force anything, especially a plastic roof panel. The roof comes right off once you remove ALL the long screws.

My dealer (Carleton Farm Supply) does not stock the filter for your unit in activated carbon, only pleated paper. I called them yesterday.

Thanks for checking on the filter for me. I just now went ahead and ordered a replacement. A charcoal one would have been nice.

When I pulled out the old one, it was literally caked with dirt and crude. I tried to blow it out without success since it was so nasty. I will just wait and put the new filter in when it arrives.

I was so close getting to the HX in the roof, but it appeared to me that I was going to have to disconnect the A/C pressure lines. The cover didn't look it would open up with just removing bolts, screws and clips.

I know a brand new roof for my B3000 is around $1,500. I was able to push that Huck fastener back in and when I gently tightened up on the bolt, it "seemed" to hold. There was a little tear on the edge of the hole the fastener went in to. I am hoping that having just one fastener messed up won't compromise the entire roof structure.

If I have to, I will order a new roof and consider it a hard learned lesson on my lack of mechanical abilities. Time will tell.

Thanks for your help.

 

[rScotty]

Yesterday, I tried my luck at dropping the "Inner Roof", not too bad, but still awkward to do.

SNIP, SNIP

When I had to roof off, the blower fan looked pretty darned clean, so maybe the rest of it is OK.

That's my story !

Tim, my hat's off to you for trying to take it apart and get to things. With plastic parts and the occasional snap connectors it is hard to know the first time through just what you are dealing with. Taking off the inside door panels on new cars is good training.... Better yet, is talking to someone who has done it before.

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I made my share of mistakes getting there. Still do.

I wonder if a person could make up their own activated charcoal filters? Seems easy enough to do. Activated charcoal is an inexpensive very fine powder and messy, but not hazardous to work with. It's used everyday in everything from toothpaste to emergency rooms. You can even buy it in molded block form for water filters at HD.
rScotty

 

[TimP]

Tim, my hat's off to you for trying to take it apart and get to things. With plastic parts and the occasional snap connectors it is hard to know the first time through just what you are dealing with. Taking off the inside door panels on new cars is good training.... Better yet, is talking to someone who has done it before.

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I made my share of mistakes getting there. Still do.

I wonder if a person could make up their own activated charcoal filters? Seems easy enough to do. Activated charcoal is an inexpensive very fine powder and messy, but not hazardous to work with. It's used everyday in everything from toothpaste to emergency rooms. You can even buy it in molded block form for water filters at HD.
rScotty

Thanks for the encouragement rScotty.

I actually have taken off the inside door panels on a few cars to install speakers.

I broke a few of those plastic pins that hold the trim on before I learned that is a tool made specifically for that purpose.

That tool is still in my toolbox after 40 years.

That's how it goes.... making mistakes is a part of the learning process.

I located a company in Canada that manufactures several replacement charcoal filters.

It seems like they sell a matching sized filter box that you fill with activated charcoal, and replenish as necessary.

They don't sell directly, so I am going to try to locate a USA dealer.

I know that pet stores sell activated charcoal for use in aquariums.

Even though I messed up a part, I did learn from my mistake.

If I ever have to remove the roof again, I can do it 1/2 the time, and hopefully, without damaging anything else.

I also learned to NOT trust the Workshop manual as gospel, but rather as a guide.

 

[5030]

Thanks for checking on the filter for me. I just now went ahead and ordered a replacement. A charcoal one would have been nice.

When I pulled out the old one, it was literally caked with dirt and crude. I tried to blow it out without success since it was so nasty. I will just wait and put the new filter in when it arrives.

Typical, The filter is washable in a bucket of suds and air dry (naturally). The issue with a clogged filter is, the ac (and heat) fan unit will pull in air (vacuum) from wherever it can and it's unfiltered so it loads the HX even faster. I clean my cab filter (outboard) and my inside screen (on the back, above your head often during the summer hay months).

I was so close getting to the HX in the roof, but it appeared to me that I was going to have to disconnect the A/C pressure lines. The cover didn't look it would open up with just removing bolts, screws and clips.

No, you don't. If you followed my instructions and removed all the screws, released the side clips and removed the Molex connectors, it's quite possible to raise the outer end of the fan shroud enough to access the ac HX. You can raise it about 6" without compromising the ac hardlines or the heater core hardlines.. I raise min, prop it up with a 6" wood prop and clean the HX with Zep in my garden sprayer, followed by a multiple clear water rinse. The accumulated crud flows out the condensate drains. Hardest part is removing the 16 screws and various Molex plugs.

I know a brand new roof for my B3000 is around $1,500. I was able to push that Huck fastener back in and when I gently tightened up on the bolt, it "seemed" to hold. There was a little tear on the edge of the hole the fastener went in to. I am hoping that having just one fastener messed up won't compromise the entire roof structure.

It wont. I've had to fiberglass mine everywhere the huck inserts are because all of them (with the exception of the front and rear ones cracked. I'm not about to buy a new roof, I'm too cheap.

If I have to, I will order a new roof and consider it a hard learned lesson on my lack of mechanical abilities. Time will tell.

Thanks for your help.

It will happen again. AC HX cleaning is really something that needs to be done at the least every other year if you use the tractor ac much. Cannot get around it. Crud will accumulate in there no matter what you do. remember, when the ac is activated the HX is condensing humidity in the air and because it's damp when operating, it collects airborne dust and any other debris like a magnet and eventually clogs.

Plan on doing it again and again. For me, it's just part of my maintenance program. This last time I also replaced the perimeter gasket and end bolsters (foam) on the inner side of the roof. Mine had gotten hard from age (mine is a 2004). $98 bucks for the bolsters and gasket (wholegoods) order.

 

[5030]

A dirty AC HX and to a lesser degree a dirty heater core, can and will emit some strange smells because the crud on it gets moldy. Nice thing about the heater core placement is, it's downstream from the AC HX so the AC unit catches and retains 99% of the airborne junk and keeps the heater core free from junk, if that is any consolation.....

I do try to operate my AC in recirculate mode as much as possible for 2 reasons. One, the AC unit has to work less to maintain the cabin temp as it's only cooling already cooled air and 2, in recirc mode, there is very little fresh (and dust laden air) being introduced to the system so the AC HX stays clean longer.

 

[Smokeydog]

Tim, my hat's off to you for trying to take it apart and get to things. With plastic parts and the occasional snap connectors it is hard to know the first time through just what you are dealing with. Taking off the inside door panels on new cars is good training.... Better yet, is talking to someone who has done it before.

I'm a pretty good mechanic, but I made my share of mistakes getting there. Still do.

I wonder if a person could make up their own activated charcoal filters? Seems easy enough to do. Activated charcoal is an inexpensive very fine powder and messy, but not hazardous to work with. It's used everyday in everything from toothpaste to emergency rooms. You can even buy it in molded block form for water filters at HD.
rScotty

I bought activated charcoal air conditioning filter pads from eBay. 24x30” and about 1/4” thick. Cut them and place a piece on top of the mini split intake as a prefilter. For about $10 got at least a 5 year supply. If they don’t come in a sealed plastic bag and aren’t stored in sealed bag don’t bother.

Got them to trap and hold radon thru the decay cycle to lower exposure. Lack the equipment to properly monitor or test if it makes a difference. Makes me feel better.

Even my vacuum has a carbon prefilter.

 

[5030]

I bought activated charcoal air conditioning filter pads from eBay. 24x30” and about 1/4” thick. Cut them and place a piece on top of the mini split intake as a prefilter. For about $10 got at least a 5 year supply. If they don’t come in a sealed plastic bag and aren’t stored in sealed bag don’t bother.

Got them to trap and hold radon thru the decay cycle to lower exposure. Lack the equipment to properly monitor or test if it makes a difference. Makes me feel better.

Even my vacuum has a carbon prefilter.

I went through that crap with one of my renters (they aren't there anymore), claiming the house had a Radon issue. After a couple grand in testing it was zip. Needless to say I terminated their lease. I don't suffer fools as a rule.