Oil & Fuel Diesel coolant question - revisited-

[max]

This post is regarding the proper coolant for New Holland (or any compact)tractors. The TC35 manual says to use 'permanent-type anti-freeze" with no mention of SCA's or "diesel anti-freeze" or even a certain specification to meet. I know that this has been talked about in the past by a few New Holland owners (MikePA, Jinman, etc.)and other brand owners, but I never read a definitive answer on this subject for New Holland tractors( or any other!). I have read the posts regarding cavitation applicable to diesels and it has me concerned. I certainly would not want to cause any damage to my engine- especially years down the road when I have no warranty! I want to change my anti-freeze, and even purchased some "FLEET CHARGE pre-charged diesel anti-freeze from TSC, but am wondering if I should use it because the manual does not call for it. At this point, I'm not sure if it would help or hurt.....Is it correct to use this in our tractors or could it cause harm in some way?

Thanks for the help!!
-Max

 

[Bird]

Max, I'm certainly no expert on the topic, but I think the cavitation problem is a problem with diesels with wet sleeves which our compact tractors don't have. In other words, I don't think you need the Fleet Charge antifreeze.

Now that said, I also certainly don't think the Fleet Charge antifreeze can hurt anything, and the price wasn't that much more than the regular . . . so when I changed the antifreeze in my B2710, the Fleet Charge from TSC is what I used. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Now maybe someone who knows more about the topic than I will tell us more. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[GreenMtnMan]

FWIW, my JD 4310 manual recommends JD COOL-GARD coolant, but it doesn't mention any particular spec the coolant has to meet.

 

[glennd]

You want long lifr low silicate antifreeze for ALL diesel engines and cars too for that matter. Moniter and maintain the proper CSA/DCA additives. While you don't have the wet sleeves, you do have metal in your engine... The sca,super coolant additive, keeps the acidity and has additives for lubricity in it. I use these products in my gasoline engine vehicles. Last 2 trade ins had 295,000 and 232,000 miles without ever even having a water pump changed. Also, keep the antifreeze at 50% coolant and 50% distilled water. Normal tap water has many minerals that will eventually plug up your radiator and cause build up within the colling system. Anymore questions, let us know. If I've left anything out someone will fill in the void. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[MikePA]

max, Bird is correct. You only need the special antifreeze for diesels if the diesel engine has wet sleeve liners in the cylinders. Most CUTs do not have wet sleeve liners. So, if your tractor does not have wet sleeve liners, you can use regular automotive, i.e., gasoline engine, anti-freeze.

Having said that, I always recommend using whatever your Owner's Manual recommends. Often they will list both the manufacturer's brand plus list the specifications it must meet. Buy any brand that meets the specs. While I have not changed my antifreeze yet, like Bird, I will use FleetGuard.

 

[jinman]

Max, I echo what Bird and MikePa said about coolant. The only thing they did not mention was that many manufacturers recommend changing the antifreeze every year. Yours is probably the same. It's easy to change dirty oil, but it's really hard for me to drain antifreeze that looks perfect and replace it with new stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif ...or maybe I'm just cheap. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I have to force myself to do it, but I use only what the manufacturer recommends. Some additives are designed for specific applications and may have properties which actually damage parts not designed for their use. I read one report stating that an additive in anti-freeze (I think it was an Exxon product) had actually caused seals to deterioriate. If I have a water pump go out, I don't want them to be able to tell me I didn't use the right antifreeze... even if that didn't cause it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[glennd]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You want long life low silicate antifreeze for ALL diesel engines and cars too for that matter. Moniter and maintain the proper SCA/DCA additives. While you don't have the wet sleeves, you do have metal in your engine... The sca, super coolant additive, keeps the coolant from becoming acidic and has additives for lubricity in it. I use these products in my gasoline engine vehicles. Last 2 trade ins had 295,000 and 232,000 miles without ever even having a water pump changed. Also, keep the antifreeze at 50% coolant and 50% distilled water. Normal tap water has many minerals that will eventually plug up your radiator and cause build up within the colling system. Anymore questions, let us know. If I've left anything out someone will fill in the void. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )</font>Edited...

 

[F350Lawman]

You want long lifr low silicate antifreeze for ALL diesel engines and cars too for that matter. Moniter and maintain the proper CSA/DCA additives. While you don't have the wet sleeves, you do have metal in your engine... The sca,super coolant additive, keeps the acidity and has additives for lubricity in it. I use these products in my gasoline engine vehicles. Last 2 trade ins had 295,000 and 232,000 miles without ever even having a water pump changed. Also, keep the antifreeze at 50% coolant and 50% distilled water. Normal tap water has many minerals that will eventually plug up your radiator and cause build up within the colling system. Anymore questions, let us know. If I've left anything out someone will fill in the void.

If by "long life coolant" you mean E.LC. (extended life coolants) not ALL engines recommend them. Some specifically say not to use them. (something with seals not being compatible??)

My Chevy specifies the E.L.C. my Ford does not. They both are low silicate formulas but one is the pink/orange ELC and the other is the plain jane green stuff with SCA added.

Now I have heard some say you can use the ELC anyway but I am not about to leave myself open to denied warranty work or even have to battle over it because I used the other stuff.

 

[djradz]

Ford cars and trucks are very specific about what ELC coolant you can use - essentially only the yellow stuff in any of the cars. For any make, car, truck, or TRACTOR, why not just use what the manufacturer specifies? I see no reason to second guess them.

 

[StanInCalif]

Although it is more critical with wet sleeve engines, there have been some failures due to cavitation erosion in non- wet sleeve engines. It appears to be related to how hard the engine works. It may be that none of us will ever have a problem wih it, but I think it's good insurance to use a cavitation erosion inhibitor.
Also, don't mix the orange and the green stuff.