Did I just get screwed?

DynamicD · Aug 10, 2024

Here is a list of TYM/Branson "official" approved fluids. Id say any quality Tractor Hydraulic fluid is fine

dodge man · Aug 10, 2024

I agree, nothing to worry about. I suppose if the fluid was so low it was sucking air and you continued to try to use it damage could be done but it sounds like everything worked when you tried it out so you should be good. Let us know how much fluid it took to fill it up. It might take as little as a quart or two.

paulsharvey · Aug 10, 2024

Citydude said:
With only 28 hours and if no visible leaks, chances are the dealer who sold it didn't fill it to the full mark. I'd fill it and check for leaks periodically.

My assumption, it was full or near full, before they cycles the hydralics, and those hold several gallons. If you didn't hear the high pitched whine of the starved hydro system, I think your fine.

I would drain and refill before doing much more usage, and change filters too. I know it's only 28 hours, but I would rather spend the $100-150, and have an established baseline.

paulsharvey · Aug 10, 2024

While you are checking everything, check axles for gear oil, clean radiator/radiator chaff screen, grease fittings, ect.

Also, air filter, check that it doesn't have moose chewing, and then remove and blow out with compressed air, and wipe out air filter housing.

Yander · Aug 10, 2024

Devildog77 said:
Thanks for the response, do you think it is safe to use the Mag 1 transmission/hydro oil at Ace Hardwear, that or the Tractor Supply Company Premium? Both seem to meet the requirements, but hard to tell without a direct comparison to the recommended Texaco the manual says.

I would consult your manual or call a tym dealer on that. I don't know much about the Branson

paulsharvey · Aug 10, 2024

It's Not 100% perfect, but you can look at what JD spec is listed on the "recommended" fluid, and make sure the oil you are looking at in store lists that same JD spec.

oldnslo · Aug 11, 2024

I chose to use JD hygard in mine since is small volume of oil and have JD dealers in every town around here. I am not a fan of using generic oils on hydrostatic drives. They may be fine but for four gallons of oil is savings enough??

Would also recommend using factory filter since once is a suction filter and there have been some reports of aftermarket causing pump to starve for oil.

BleedingOrange · Aug 11, 2024

If your fluid is clear, it is very hard to see the level on the dipstick. John Deere has a red additive you can add to it which helps a lot to make it much more visible.

rScotty · Aug 11, 2024

oldnslo said:
I chose to use JD hygard in mine since is small volume of oil and have JD dealers in every town around here. I am not a fan of using generic oils on hydrostatic drives. They may be fine but for four gallons of oil is savings enough??

Would also recommend using factory filter since once is a suction filter and there have been some reports of aftermarket causing pump to starve for oil.

I'd say the same thing. There are no standards for trans/hydraulic oil like there is for engine oil.
It makes sense to use a name brand oil. JD HyGard is reasonably priced and available everywhere.
The hydraulic filter is a suction type, so best stay with the factory filter.

BTW, since the hydraulics still worked I doubt you did any damage. As others have said, that system holds gallons of fluid. I think my Kubota holds somewhere around 12 gallons, and only the last gallon or two shows on the dipstick.

When a hydraulic system begins to starve for oil all the hydraulic unctions quit working and the noise is very loud - you wouldn't miss hearing it.

I like to change all the engne, trans/hydraulic fluid (which is also the rear axle fluid in tractors)) and the front axle oils along with all the filters. I do that for sure in the first 50 to 100 hours of operation and that is when I put in my top quality oils and filters. Doing that at low hours gets rid of all the manufacturing swarf and dirt.
And then I go to standard maintenance intervals or longer. If the tractor is used for light occasional chore work, and I have used top quality synthetic oil and OEM filters I will extend the intervals up to double.
However, I will shorten the intervals if the work is heavy, or high RPM, or if the machine smells like it has been running hot.

I personally buy the best oils because it seems like cheap insurance. But those real good fluids are costly - especially all those gallons of JD HyGard trans/hydraulic fluid. And honestly I must say in my 50+ years as a mechanic I have never seen a case of engine/tranny wear or failure that I could definitely blame on poor quality oil - as long as there was enough of it and it was roughly the right type oil.
....And I've drained some pretty funky oil - particularly out of old machines back when before detergent oils became the standard. Some I'm sure had never been changed -only added to - and even on hose the moving parts were fine.

I have seen wear and failure due to water getting into the oil - especially the trans/hydraulic oil which seems to attract water and turn milky and rust parts. And I've also seen failures due to poor quality filters as well as due to air leaks in hydraulic suction lines feeding the hydraulic pump.

Mostly it is just common sense.
rScotty