Diagnosis thoughts?

[Richard]

Regarding my JCB loader/backhoe.

History: Nearly from day 1 of me owning this... I've owned it for maybe 25 years but, bought it used. Looked ugly as all get-out but, ran (and still does) as smooth as a swiss watch.

Starting procedure has nearly ALWAYS been (when engine cold)... climb up, hit start on key.... starter will click ONE time. Stop...turn key off....(starter might still be slowing down from spinning BUT, it didn't engage flywheel)

Turn key again.....another click...turn key off... wait 3-5 seconds, turn key again and BAM, fires up in what seems to be a quarter revolution of the flywheel (seems to be a fast starting machine, no cranking really needed)

Later after use, shut down...have lunch, climb back on and turn key and FIRST turn, fires right up. So the three key turns is done when engine is cold.

Other day, jumped aboard, turned key and dead silence. NOTHING. Key off, turned again, more dead silence. Absolute no click that it's done for 20 years.

Presuming battery is dead because I might have left key on for couple days (turned out I didn't).... bring tractor over, hook jumper cables and BAM, engine cranks and fires up. Ok so batter was low.... (turns out it wasn't)...

Shut down, hooked charger to it... next morning, jump aboard and again, dead silence. Connect jumpers and BAM, starts like a bat outta heII.... If the batter was dead or weak, it would take MUCH more charging while jumping.

My guess is my bendix has finally bit the dust. Maybe weak connection inside (hence the clicks).... but connect jumper cable to it...adds some boost and things rock & roll like they should.

My thoughts are, replace bendix. (maybe starter if I can't find just the bendix, I've not looked yet)

Agree??

 

[DJ54]

I'd check the battery cables first, especially the ground on both ends. Could be corroded inside connectors.

 

[Richard]

I'd check the battery cables first, especially the ground on both ends. Could be corroded inside connectors.

They've been checked/cleaned and are snug. It has N.E.V.E.R. done this in the years I've had it.

Years ago, I DID have what turned out to be a broken wire in the harness that as I recall, charged the battery from the alternator. My life then was to always keep machine manually charged.

When the charge dropped, the batter would engage the starter but not have the juice to crank engine and the wires started getting reallyyyyyyyy hot. So I've always had the hot lead (+) on the battery NOT tightened so I can quickly remove it so it doesn't melt everything! Finally found the broken wire that charges battery and it's been good. Because of that, I had replaced the battery wires. Heck, I'm probably on my third.

Now, I HAVE learned that when this gets testy to crank, to make sure that the 12v lead is attached to the bendix. Seems that had wiggled off before and I had fits trying to figure things out. Now, I know to check that lead (and it's connected).

 

[Richard]

For some reason, when I type battery I'm losing the "y". Just noticed that. Apologies for the sloppy spelling.

 

[zzvyb6]

Sounds like what I ran into: the contacts in the starter solenoid are just about all burned out. Parts on eBay or Amazon.

 

[gengine]

Most auto parts houses will have, or can get, new solenoids. My guess, because it will start right off with jumper cables, the connection to the battery post(s) post needs cleaned up. I know you said they were clean, hopefully shiny, and I am also assuming that your hooking your jumper cables direct to the battery. It is also possible you need to have your battery load tested with a carbon pile load tester. The electronic testers the parts houses love put a simulated load on your battery to calculate battery health. A carbon pile tester puts an actual load on it. I have had more than one test good on a digital tester, but fall flat on it's face when a load is on it.

 

[CalG]

A Good going over with a VOM measuring voltage drops and/or resistance
Would be a great start.