Deutz-Fuel Shut Off Solenoid replacement?

[woodlandfarms]

Terry

How hard of a repair is this? Can you describe the process so when I have to do this I can call back on this page?

 

[SELKIRK]

Terry

How hard of a repair is this? Can you describe the process so when I have to do this I can call back on this page?

I'll post some pictures of the process next week after the install.

 

[DonStillwagon]

Hi Gents: Actually, this solenoid is spring loaded to shut off the fuel inside the injector pump if it is de-energized or if it fails due to a coil meltdown. When energized it compresses the spring, moves the lever and turns on the fuel to the injector pump, thus when the engine is running the solenoid is energized and consuming power and it seem to run pretty hot. The failure mode I have experienced is the solenoid shorting turn-turn (which makes the coil shorter electrically and it draws more current) and getting hotter and hotter until it melts a conductor open or blows the fuse.

I have removed the solenoid (fits under the alternator and must be accessed by removing the belt tensioner pulley) and the engine will run just fine without it, but the hole in the crankcase must be plugged with a rubber freeze plug or something similar and the engine must be stopped by holding the fuel shut off lever closed until it stops. The shut off lever is near the fuel feed lever the "throttle" cable moves. I ran mine until I had a repair part by using a piece of #9 fence wire as a push rod extending under the engine box out to the seat area so I could reach down and kill the engine by pushing on the rod. Knowing that all you need to do is get the fuel to a diesel and turn the crankshaft will sometimes get you running in an emergency, and the only way to shut one off is turn off the fuel or air.

Thanks for the info on a reasonable parts source - best price I could get a couple of years ago was near $300, so being somewhat cheap, I just took mine apart and rewound it. Cost me a few hours and maybe $20 or so in magnet wire and hi-temp epoxy. Mine had around 575 turns of wire and the biggest problem was the bobbin (spool) was partially charred so rewinding was a little tedious. Wire size and number of turns is critical - you must match the size to get the coil to fit and to have the right pull and power consumption. if anyone is interested in a tedious job, I have pictures somewhere that I can post as well as information on the wire size (for my 1430). The coil can is crimped on to the front casting, so it is not made to be repairable, but with some patience and determination one can undo the crimp and the rest is straightforward.

So far, my repair is holding and the solenoid operates just like it should, but I am sure the machine wound coil will last longer.

Fixing something unfixable is half the fun!

Don

 

[SELKIRK]

Sorry for the delay in posting the solenoid replacement. I'm in the middle of a complete kitchen remodel and my wife thinks that more important than a broken tractor!

The replacement only took about 30min. Disconnect the wire harness, remove belt tensioner, remove two bolts of the solenoid. The bottom bolt is hard to see and you must go by feel.
Reverse for install. There is a spot to insert a 1/2 breaker bar to tension the belt.

Now the bad part-It did not fix my problem, something is still causing the breaker to trip.
When my 1430 broke in the middle of the hot field I thought the wiring connection was burnt, but once I took it off it did not look so bad. It will start and run for about 20-40 seconds then the pushbutton breaker will trip.

With not allot of time to work on it right now, I did replace the breaker and did not see any loose wires for a ground problem that Bob999 had. Bob999 any help on pointing out just were that ground wire is, the rear box is tucked so far down its hard to see anything.

If anyone can think of some other area's to check, please post up.

Thanks
Selkirk

 

[Bob999]

Sorry for the delay in posting the solenoid replacement. I'm in the middle of a complete kitchen remodel and my wife thinks that more important than a broken tractor!

The replacement only took about 30min. Disconnect the wire harness, remove belt tensioner, remove two bolts of the solenoid. The bottom bolt is hard to see and you must go by feel.
Reverse for install. There is a spot to insert a 1/2 breaker bar to tension the belt.

Now the bad part-It did not fix my problem, something is still causing the breaker to trip.
When my 1430 broke in the middle of the hot field I thought the wiring connection was burnt, but once I took it off it did not look so bad. It will start and run for about 20-40 seconds then the pushbutton breaker will trip.

With not allot of time to work on it right now, I did replace the breaker and did not see any loose wires for a ground problem that Bob999 had. Bob999 any help on pointing out just were that ground wire is, the rear box is tucked so far down its hard to see anything.

If anyone can think of some other area's to check, please post up.

Thanks
Selkirk

From the symptoms I don't think it is the ground. More likely you have a short in the hot side of the wiring--because the breaker trips I would look between the breaker and the solenoid.

I think the path is breaker to ignition switch to terminal 15 to 14 to 3 on the dash terminal strip and then the green wire to terminal 6 on the junction box terminal strip and then a green wire to the engine connector (the one you pull to crank the engine after replacing the hydraulic filter)

If you don't find a problem there then it could be any thing else that is protected with that breaker--virtually everything on the tractor. Typical troubleshooting would be to disconnect everthing you can and then add loads back one at a time until the breaker trips.

 

[woodlandfarms]

One other thing to check is if this happens with the key on, or the engine running.

I agree with bob, it is a hot side short. You are pinching a wire, or it is vibrating into contact with a ground.

I had this same problem when I removed the dash panel. When putting it back I crushed / pinched a wire between the panel and the body. It would run a bit than BAM, breaker would pop..

Felt stupid when I found it.

Oh and thanks for the pix... I am having problems with my Tiny tach but now I find it is installation error. whatever. I never follow the full directions.

Carl

 

[Wherewolf]

Sorry to revive this thread, but I need some help. I've got an older Deutz 4 cyl (2011?) that the wiring has been trashed - I've got just about everything rewired, but I'm trying to determine if the fuel cutoff solenoid is just a two wire (Hot & Ground) or a two wire Pull & Hold wire with a body ground. I should have mentioned that there only appears to be two wires coming from the solenoid, and the connectors are long gone. I've fried a john deere three wire Pull/Hold solenoid out of sheer ignorance, but I did learn my lesson. don't want to fry this one....

Does anyone have any wire diagrams for their rig that shows how the solenoid is wired? If it goes through a timer relay of some sort, then it's probably a Pull/Hold wire combo.

If anyone has any info, it would be much appreciated.

Wherewolf

 

[profab structures]

where did u buy the deutz fuel shut off solenoid?

 

[SpringHollow]

I just had to replace mine. I purchased from here:
http://www.memoparts.com/Parts.aspx?Cat=Engine%20Shutdown

Not the easiest place to deal with but they are half the price.
Call and tell them the engine and the cover style and they will send you the correct one.

Ken

 

[SELKIRK]

I purchase mine at the same place, Memo-Omega. I found them to be very helpful. They sent me a picture first to confirm the correct part. Shipped out the same day and I received the next day. By far the cheapest around.


This was my contact at Memo-Omega:


Geoff Gibson

Sales

Memo-Omega Mfg., Inc.

Ph: 817-488-4444 Ext 113

Fax: 817-488-0672

E-mail : geoff@memoparts.com

Website : Memo Corporation - Home