Loader Detaching bucket only from tractor

[Ray Dove]

I have a Yanmar 3810D with a Koyker 160 loader without quick attach. I would like to be able to detach the bucket only when I am doing work that doesn't require the loader such as bush hogging or scrape blade work to relieve some of the weight on the front end. It looks like I should be able to remove the 2 thru pins on each side and remove the bucket. Has anyone ever done this and any other advice will be appreciated.

 

[winston1]

Looks to me like your 160 loader is a quick attach loader. Talking about loader quick attach, not bucket quick attach. If so, much easier to remove the whole loader instead of just the bucket. Can't really know from my viewpoint.

 

[California]

It looks like I should be able to remove the 2 thru pins on each side and remove the bucket. Has anyone ever done this

I did just that recently, to better fit the tractor into my shop for a recent repair. No big deal. You might leave a couple of 2x4's sticking out from under the bucket, to make it easier to lever it into position later when its time to reinstall. But as Winston said, if the entire loader assembly is quick-detach then that may be simpler. Taking those pins out is also a good opportunity to polish and grease them.

 

[rScotty]

my most recent tractor, a (gasp!... Kubota!) has the SSQA mounting system on the front of the loader arms. SSQA stands for "Skid Steer Quick Attach" and what it means is that any tractor with a SSQA can quickly manually attach any SSQA attachment and it will fit and the geometry will work.

It takes maybe one minute to do. Now any bucket that will fit a skid steer will also work on the tractor - although some do require aux. hydraulics. But the world just got a lot larger.

I love that SSQA for the options it gives me, the SSQA system would also fit most any Yanmar or other make loader from about 25/30 hp & up.

But of course now we're just dreaming. A simpler truth is that on your existing loader you can do just as you guessed and as California says, Take out the 2 pins on each side, lash the cylinders to the arms so they don't bounce, and leave the bucket behind.
rScotty

 

[Ray Dove]

THe loader does not have the quick attach , but from replies, it seems I should be able to remove just the bucket from loader and do as I had planned. Thanks to all who replied.

 

[winston1]

THe loader does not have the quick attach , but from replies, it seems I should be able to remove just the bucket from loader and do as I had planned. Thanks to all who replied.

that is interesting, must be more than one option on the 160 loader. The one shown here is quick attach. You can click on the picture to make it larger. YM282� [RARE] Fredricks Outdoor

 

[kenmac]

that is interesting, must be more than one option on the 160 loader. The one shown here is quick attach. You can click on the picture to make it larger. YM282� [RARE] Fredricks Outdoor

well, they say they are quick attach, but they won't be quick if you don't have quick couplers on the loader valve .
They're sure not as quick as a quick attach bucket.
Unless you special order a koyker loader with quick attach bucket, You get a pin on bucket

 

[Ray Dove]

I do not have quick couplers on the loader valve. Mine is a pin on bucket

 

[kenmac]

mine is also a pin on bucket. You'll have to remove the pins to remove the bucket

 

[winston1]

I do not have quick couplers on the loader valve. Mine is a pin on bucket

I understand both of your statements. Does your loader have the quick remove pin that I have circled here?

 

[Jtullis13]

I have been wanting to do this same thing on my 2210d with a Koyker 120 loader but mine didn't come with quick couplers for the loader valves, so I would have to redo all of them.

 

[Ray Dove]

Yes , Winston, my loader has the pins that are circled in your post. However, my obstacle to "Quick Attach" is not the loader itself but the hydraulic fluid line. My hydraulic fluid line from pump to rear end has been interrupted by a loop in the line going to the joystick box. One end of loop goes to top of joystick box and other end of loop goes to bottom of joystick box. I do not see a valve or anything of that nature that would allow me to detour by the loop and direct fluid straight to rear end as it was before loader was added. If you have a pic of what that valve should look like , please post. To sum it all up, it appears to me that the loader with bucket still attached is indeed the quick attach type, but the hydraulic fluid line is not equipped with the quick attach couplers for attaching and unattaching. The hydraulic line seems to be hardwired. Does that make sense to you?

 

[winston1]

Yes, sure makes sense. The line from your pump goes through the loader valve in route to your 3 point. If done correctly the loader valve will be mounted on the tractor. That way the loader valve stays on the tractor when the loader is removed. Also correct way is to have quick couplings on the 4 loader lines right at the loader valve. They are then disconnected when the loader is removed but your hydraulic flow continues to go to your 3 point. Hope I am making sense. Couple of pictures showing how my old 2002D was plumbed. You will see 3 lines + the 4 loader cylinder lines with quick couplings. Your valve probably has only 2 lines + the 4 loader cylinder lines. My 3rd line is power beyond but if your loader is working fine just ignore that 3rd line.

 

[kenmac]

if he has the koyker loader valve. It will be mounted to the loader arm, not to the tractor.
The easiest thing to do would be to knock the pins out of the bucket and just drop the bucket

My Kubota mx 5100 has quick disconnects so the entire loader can be removed if the tractor needs to be split
It also has the skid steer quick attach bucket which makes it easy to drop the bucket

 

[California]

... If done correctly the loader valve will be mounted on the tractor. That way the loader valve stays on the tractor when the loader is removed. Also correct way is to have quick couplings on the 4 loader lines right at the loader valve. They are then disconnected when the loader is removed but your hydraulic flow continues to go to your 3 point. Couple of pictures showing how my old 2002D was plumbed.

My YM186 has the original Yanmar loader and it is plumbed as you described, the control stays with the tractor if the loader is removed. (Photo). And the loader is set up to be removed easily, including a 'foot' to hold it up ready for re-use.

 

[winston1]

I could take my old bulldog loader off or on in 10 minutes or less. Same with my current Bobcat. I remove and install mine several times a year. It gets in my way when mowing in tight quarters. I have an old home made brush stacker that I occasionally do put in place of my bucket. Doesn't take that long to do it but not as fast as taking the loader off.

 

[Ray Dove]

Thanks again for all the replies and information. Again I say, my loader is the quick attach one but hydraulic line does not have the quick attach valves and connections. Therefore, to avoid the expense of changing the hydraulic valves and connections, I'll just remove the bucket when I need to remove it for non loader type of work. Thanks again.

 

[CoyPatton]

Thanks again for all the replies and information. Again I say, my loader is the quick attach one but hydraulic line does not have the quick attach valves and connections. Therefore, to avoid the expense of changing the hydraulic valves and connections, I'll just remove the bucket when I need to remove it for non loader type of work. Thanks again.

It would be a bit of work and expense, but to give you the option to remove your loader, you could install a quick connect on each line going to your loader from the tractor. Just be sure to plumb it so you can complete the fluid flow on the lines when you remove the loader.
before you remove your pins, grease them and curl/ dump the bucket several times. Fresh grease and the movement should free up the pins to come out as easily as possible.
Good luck! On and be sure to secure your cylinders while your bucket is off!