Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #41  
I figure to do concrete pours once. If it cracks on me, or has some other defect, I know myself and it would annoy me every time I walked past it.

I use chairs or dobies when using mesh as well. The sweet spot for steel reinforcement is about a third of the way up the slab, regardless of whether it is rebar or mesh. I would say if the bricks are the right height for your pour, run with it!

All the best,

Peter
All concrete cracks. That's the purpose of cuts. They direct the cracks.

Cracks can also be mimimized by pouring dry. You'll have to diligently argue with your contractorcto get him to do that. Increases their labor dramatically.

If you ordered 100 truck loads of concrete, 99 times the contractor will test a little in the chute and then tell the driver to add more water.
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #42  
Are you pouring footing and then slab ? Or slab and footing at once? Yes, either way full perimeter footing. Either way I would break it into two 24x48 sections with a piece of keyway. That slab will crack if you don't. Use re mat and not just fiber. Okay re mat and fiber, re mat only is fine, but not fiber only. A slab that rectangular is going to crack. Keyway is cheap and easy to install.

Aw it prolly won't crack... Ask them to put that in writing or put in that keyway.

I might would do a grade beam if doing two pours. Are you wet setting the ICF or leaving vertical rebar and spray foaming blocks to slab above grade ? Lots of energy loss at footer if above grade which defeats the purpose of ICF to begin with. I always poured inside the blocks, I mean set the blocks on below grade footing, popped chalk line and poured the slab. I have glued them to top of an existing slab when adding a safe room. You could be doing for storm resistance, but with garage doors, I think not. They'll blow out if a tornado is in the county somewhere. I was in a shop fixing to skedaddle out of there and a drum door blew out. So much for hurricane doors. But, it was a 14' drum door.

Yes pour a footer under doors too. Do not ever think of not doing it. I have three concrete finishing machines, bull floats, hand floats. Had two concrete pumps for years and built over a dozen ICF homes. Easily poured more concrete than any ten combined. Poured 175 yards a day many times. My a double s was on the line because I was the contractor. Hand finished slabs your size, even 40x60 on my knees with two 2'x4' pieces of plywood, yes I have. Contrary to popular belief, that is why I'm in my fifties and my knees are great. Friends are getting bionic knees, but not me. I can still lay floor or finish concrete all day on my knees. Dad is 75 and he can too. No knee or hip replacements in my bloodline ever.

I've built three story houses, 12/12 pitch roof, blocked the gables, all with ICF. I was the contractor, built the whole thing. One had a 5,000 square foot basement. Over 20 years, no problems at all that house was two stories above the basement.
 
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   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings
  • Thread Starter
#43  
We glued the ICF to the footings with spray foam and then poured the stemwall. Filling in the garage with AB and compacting before we pour the slab.

Forms2.jpg



Forms.jpg
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #44  
We glued the ICF to the footings with spray foam and then poured the stemwall. Filling in the garage with AB and compacting before we pour the slab.

View attachment 794428


View attachment 794429
I always made a wooden trough that fit the top of blocks. 4' long and top flared out. I'd have concrete truck drive around perimeter and pour the blocks to just above slab top grade. Once you pop your grade line, you can go around with 18" or so rebar pieces and stick them through foam and wall concrete will tie to slab Crete when it's all done. You may can lay another row of blocks before any more pouring. Just as long as they can reach over from outside and trowel concrete to hold the chalk line around edge. When they get a grade beam established, they can finish the slab. Make sure if you have any electric, gas, plumbing, do it now. It you think you might in the future, make extra wall penetrations. I run them through wall and hit an inside wall so I can conduit from outside all the way to the attic. That's one of them oh we don't need that, oh we are so glad you did it.
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings
  • Thread Starter
#45  
Car lift manufacturer (BendPak) recommends 4.25" concrete slab and 3,000 psi for the 2 post lift.

I am going 5.00" slab with 4,500 psi. Rebar schedule (as per engineering) is 18" oc with #4 rebar
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #46  
and 12” block below grade filled solid and vertical bar. Switched to 8” filled solid above grade
Holy mother of god I hope you fire whoever did your block work. Out of a cannon. Into the sun. He should have to register as block offender and not be permitted within 1000' of a free standing cinderblock, like perverts aren't permitted near schools.

This is how your blockwork should look like.

Fg1BV9f.jpg
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Going to do my pour tomorrow.
6" slab on garage with 4,500 psi mix - #4 rebar @ 36" oc
12" turn down on garage entry
4" slab on house with 4,500 psi mix - #4 rebar @ 36" oc

Almost 50 yards total of concrete.

house slab.jpg


gararge slab.jpg
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #48  
Look forward to seeing pics of the pour!!!! Wish you were my neighbor, I'd Drone it. :)
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings #49  
@Pettrix Good luck! Don't forget to keep it wet for as long as you can.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings
  • Thread Starter
#50  
@Pettrix Good luck! Don't forget to keep it wet for as long as you can.

All the best,

Peter

Should I wet it down that same day or wait until the following day to wet it down?

Temps will be:
LOW = upper 40s
HIGH = low 70s
Sunny/Partly Cloudy
 
 
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