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[MadReferee]

OK, one more question--how much should I weld the top to the base? Just enough to keep it from coming off?

You did take a look at the Miller plans I referenced in a previous post and checcked out other peoples tables, right? If not, then just weld the top to the frame. Weld all four corners and a few places on cross braces or in your case along the edge of the cart. If the welds are solid it's not going anywhere.

 

[MadReferee]

3/8" plate weighs a little over 15.3 lbs per square foot. A 4' x 6' plate will weigh almost 370 lbs and is very awkward to handle and manuever. I know from experience. Make sure you have plenty of muscle for help or a forklift or other appropriate equipment on hand.

 

[EddieWalker]

The top on my welding table is flush with the sides. No overhang. I have a vise mounted on the corner to hold things, but otherwise, I use magnets to home material in place. Every once in awhile, I'll use some vicegrips, but that's about it. I've never had the need for clamps.

My top is just put on the angle iron frame and welded around the outside edge. I have several cross braces along the top, but the metal just rests on it without being attached. I can put just about any amount of weight on it and beat it with a hammer without any movement.

Another concern about having the metal overhang is saftey. Is this something thay you or others might bump into? If you do the overhang routine, be sure there's not sharp corners or edges.

Eddie

 

[Berniep]

1/4 inch isn't heavy enough. If you can dent it with a machinist hammer.......it's aint thick enough. !

Wow you guys really like to hammer on your welding tables. I used some scrap steel plate that I found in the barn, might be 1/4 inch but most likely its 3/16ths, made some stucture under it to make sure it stays flat. It's not going to hold up an engine block Like the on on the Miller site but I haven't wanted to weld an engine block on my table yet anyway. Most likely it will stay on the engine stand where it belongs if I need to weld on it. I don't have any problem tacking things to it to keep them aligned. If it's heavy enough to bend the table I don't want to lift it up that high anyway.

 

[Jethro]

Wow you guys really like to hammer on your welding tables. I used some scrap steel plate that I found in the barn, might be 1/4 inch but most likely its 3/16ths, made some stucture under it to make sure it stays flat. It's not going to hold up an engine block Like the on on the Miller site but I haven't wanted to weld an engine block on my table yet anyway. Most likely it will stay on the engine stand where it belongs if I need to weld on it. I don't have any problem tacking things to it to keep them aligned. If it's heavy enough to bend the table I don't want to lift it up that high anyway.

Amen, brother! I'm sure a heavier top is good, but I have a 1/4" top and have never had a problem. I did weld a continuous bead all the way around it, which I'm sure is overkill, but it does not flex. I have wailed on it quiie a few times with a 4lb maul and had no problems, though I usually use my anvil for such things.

I failed to design an overhang, which I regret. I would round the corners, as EW recommended, but I would definately sugest overhang for clamping. It would also be a good idea to have locking casters. I couldn't tell by the photo, but it looked like the existong ones do not lock.

 

[Willl]

Nice job Matt, but that shop is way too clean.

 

[DieselPower]

Lookin good. Now all you need are some welding projects.

 

[63DH8]

I'm using 1 inch grate. It looks something like the add-on armor from the Stryker vehicle, but with the grating closer together. Slag drops down between the grating and is much easier to clean afterwards.

 

[Jagmandave]

That table looks great to me. I don't usually weld up stuff that's too big or heavy, so mine's pretty light duty (just made up out of scrap I had lying around the shop) compared to what you guys built, but boy is it handy!

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soundguy
..... it's way better than the old picnic table I'm using as a welding table... at least it was free... soundguy

You're way ahead of me! I'm still using the floor ... upgrading to concrete some years ago felt like I was living like a king

Concrete? I just upgraded to gravel. And that wasn't an upgrade from dirt, either. It used to be a stable!

 

[BTDT]

Sounds like a good start. I lucked out several years ago and got a table from a gravel pit that had gone out of business. 1" thick 4x8 plate steel top, 4"x6" H beam legs, and it has some dragline bucket teeth welded on one end on the top that makes an awsome anvil, bending jig. Had to load it on trailer with backhoe, this thing is plenty heavy. I mounted a vise near one end. Works great.

Went out today and took some pics of my welding table, it was bigger than I thought. Still has a lot of junk piled on from winter, but you can see it is 10' long, 4' wide, and about 3'6" tall (didn't measure height ). It is about 7/8" thick, and you can see the dragline teeth welded on (to the side of pipe) laying on top. Legs ended up being 8x8 channel iron.

 

[Mith]

An idea for those of you who dont want to spash out a couple 100 dollars on a thick sheet of plate is to put a sheet of 3/4" ply under the sheet of steel. I havent had a problem.

My bench is just 2x2 box with 3/4" ply on it. I have a bit of stainless to weld on though, its magnetic so I can stick metal to it, but the weld spatter doesnt stick. Its only thin, hence the need for the ply. I wouldnt want to buy a bit of stainless steel 1/2" thick, 10 foot long by 3 foot wide!
Its still flat, even with my 250lb vise in the middle, and all the other junk on it.