Deer Fence Design

/ Deer Fence Design #21  
Quote:
tallyho8 said:
If those 3x5 posts are landscaping timbers, they usually have a very light pressure treatment and will not last more than a few years as posts. You would be much better off using 4x4s which are more heavily preserved.


nate_m said:
That's interesting and disappointing. I would have guessed that pressure treated is pressure treated. Those timbers are half the cost of a standard 4x4.

~Nate

Personally I have found this not to be true. I use them all the time and actually did 2 weeks ago putting up a small fence. My BIL has used them since he discovered they are cheaper. We have some around our neighborhood that have been there for 15+ years (on the dirt and surrounded by pea gravel). The 8 footers I just bought were $3.50 at lowes if I recall, 7' 4x4's were about 8 bucks. They are not as pretty but I'll continue to use them.

Good Luck,
Rob
 
/ Deer Fence Design #22  
derifarm said:
From what I've seen up here in Maine, a two fence system works well. Basically, have two parallel fence lines spaced six feet apart... ...The downside is that you have a six foot wide perimeter that needs to maintained between the two fence lines...

Well, I guess there's no reason you can't garden in between the two fences. Something for the beans to climb, or maybe permanent beds for asparagus, garlic, and otehr stuff that doesn't get tilled up every season.


RobJ said:
To me you want to deter them from trying to jump. Once one jumps in (or maybe a dozen jump in!!!) then you have deer that won't jump out!! :D :D

Reminds me of a neighbor that had a lab puppy with an invisible fence and shock collar. They missed the part about needing to train the dog. He would want out so much that he would endure the shock to get free, but never wanted to go home badly enough to take another shock to get back in. I thought it was cruel. I guess once trapped inside your garden a deer would probably eat everything you have.
 
/ Deer Fence Design #23  
chatcher said:
Well, I guess there's no reason you can't garden in between the two fences. Something for the beans to climb, or maybe permanent beds for asparagus, garlic, and otehr stuff that doesn't get tilled up every season.

Also, I use the portable fencing stakes and only protect sections that the deer will bother. So, when it's time to mow or till, with a quick walk around the field, I can move the stakes out of the way.

I really think the key to getting any electric fence to work with deer is to use shiny aluminum foil baited with the peanut-butter...though I'm not sure if they prefer jelly or Fluff (a New England favorite). :D
 
/ Deer Fence Design #24  
2 of my favorites, corn fed beef, and garden fed whitetail.

I have personally seen whitetail deer jump 8' wire woven fence to get at our 40 freshly planted apple trees. Sad part is, they couldn't figure out that to get out, they just jump it again. They tore that fence up.

Once a deer jumps, it is no longer grounded. Electric fence that high is worthless.

You want to keep deer out for a full gardening season? Call your local zoo and ask for a 5 gallon bucket of lion manure. Place it in the middle of the garden. No fence, no nothing. You won't see a deer within a hundred yards of that bucket. We did it, it works.
 
/ Deer Fence Design #25  
Wayne County Hose said:
...You want to keep deer out for a full gardening season? Call your local zoo and ask for a 5 gallon bucket of lion manure. Place it in the middle of the garden. No fence, no nothing. You won't see a deer within a hundred yards of that bucket. We did it, it works...


You don't reckon it would intimidate my tomcat, do you?
 
/ Deer Fence Design #28  
The simplest deer fence is a 2 wire plus middle one of fish line, with wires electrified via a solar powered fence charger. I've had one like this for 7 years down below. Only time I had deer in the garden was when my chargers would go out on me (twice/year rebuilds). Since they started making electronic fence chargers, no problems at all.

I use run the B5 Yellowjacket type charger off a 12v utility battery and use a TSC "Mule Gate" 5 watt solar panel to keep the battery up.

Strands at 4 to 6" and at 4' keep ALL animals out.

Ralph
 
/ Deer Fence Design
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Thanks for all the input.

I have re-designed my fence taking into account some of your suggestions. See the attached file.

Aesthetics is still high on my list so I will keep the three rail wood design. I just like the way it looks.

I have also added 2 x 2 wire mesh to help keep smaller critters out.

I have moved the electric wire from the top of the posts to an 5 foot outside perimeter location. I am using fiberglass posts that are readily available and won't detract too badly from the aesthetics of the primary fence.

I am also considering sinking pvc pipe into the ground to locate the fiberglass posts. This would make it easily removable for mowing and to remove during the non-growing season.

Anybody know why you would use electric wire versus electric tape? What are the benefits and drawbacks?

I realize that no fence design (other than maybe the Great Wall in China) is going to be 100%. I am hoping that what I put up will be enough of a deterent to save most of my veggies. We live in farm country and there is plenty of corn, alfalfa, soybeans, etc that will be much easier to get to.
 

Attachments

  • Fence REV2.pdf
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/ Deer Fence Design
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Well, let the real debate begin....

My DW saw my "REV2" design and wrote me a diatribe that would Patrick_G to shame....:p

I have now made a REV3 drawing (atttached) that incorporates her idea of what our Deer Fence should look like.

So whatya say fellas? Who has the better design to keep the deer out, Me or my DW?
 

Attachments

  • Fence REV3.pdf
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/ Deer Fence Design #32  
I don't know which would be better to keep the deer out ....but I do know that "if momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy" ....I'd go with rev3 .... except I think you might be overdoing the elect ...I would think 1 strand at 4' and brought out from the fence a few inches, would suffice. And it looks easier/faster to put up too. To me it also looks to be at least as effective as rev2.
 
/ Deer Fence Design #33  
nate_m said:
I have also added 2 x 2 wire mesh to help keep smaller critters out.

I have moved the electric wire from the top of the posts to an 5 foot outside perimeter location. I am using fiberglass posts that are readily available and won't detract too badly from the aesthetics of the primary fence.

I am also considering sinking pvc pipe into the ground to locate the fiberglass posts. This would make it easily removable for mowing and to remove during the non-growing season.

Anybody know why you would use electric wire versus electric tape? What are the benefits and drawbacks?

I realize that no fence design (other than maybe the Great Wall in China) is going to be 100%. I am hoping that what I put up will be enough of a deterent to save most of my veggies. We live in farm country and there is plenty of corn, alfalfa, soybeans, etc that will be much easier to get to.

Your design shows significant improvement.

Wire is cheaper. Tape is more visible and if you don't want an animal to get cut if tangles in the fence then tape is better. I think in your case I'd probably go wire but you need little cloth flags on the wire to make it visible to the animals or they will tangle with your fence necessitating more work for you and probably injuring the animal.
Foil and peanut butter is not needed and is a waste of time unless you want to make a clip to send off to "America's Most Inhumane Videos." The deer will investigate the cloth flags unless they already know what it is associated with.

It is your fence but I don't feel comfortable agreeing with the 5 ft separation between the two. They may jump the first and then the second. I'd try about 4 1/2 ft which would crowd them a bit and still not be too narrow.

The PVC in the ground is an excellent idea. I have a friend who has electric fence posts with stirrups at the bottom so you can move the fence and just step on the projection near the bottom to replant the post. No pounding, super easy to do, and you won't need to bury PVC pipes (which will work OK if you can't find the other posts.)

Deer will eat what is closest and won't walk across the street to get into farmer Brown's corn if they are passing by your garden and only have to jump a fence for access.

I'd consider tilting the electric posts outward 30 degrees. The fence will still be 87% as tall as if the posts are straight up and will gain in width 1/2 of their height above ground. That would give you a wider barrier while still keeping the space between fences from being too wide apart to deter a double jump.

Another advantage of the buried PVC is that you don't have to bury as much of the electric posts. The PVC can be buried deeper than the posts and provide the rigidity needed. This will give you a tallelr electric fence and make up for the little height lost by tilting the posts outward to gain more effective width.

Pat
 
/ Deer Fence Design #34  
Wayne County Hose said:
You want to keep deer out for a full gardening season? Call your local zoo and ask for a 5 gallon bucket of lion manure. Place it in the middle of the garden. No fence, no nothing. You won't see a deer within a hundred yards of that bucket. We did it, it works.

OK NOT saying this doesn't work for you...but, how does a deer know what lion poop smells like? I saw a hunting show years ago(think mythbusters), that tested carnovoir (sp?) urine, poop, and found they had the same chemical make up..ie human, lion, coyote, etc. then tested them in the field. OK maybe/maybe not you are a mythbuster fan.

Another thing, folks in this thread say deer feast on apples, peaches and stuff. I think up north folks feed deer potatos. I've tried them ALL down here. Apples, carrots, deer won't touch them in east texas. They don't know what they are missing.

Just some.."food" for thought. :D :D

Rob
 
/ Deer Fence Design #35  
patrick_g said:
You could use anti-personnel land mines but, anything less than a LASER automatically aimed at any moving IR target is not a sure thing.
Pat

I fixed it for you, don't mention it, your welcome.:)
 
/ Deer Fence Design #36  
PA hayseed said:
I fixed it for you, don't mention it, your welcome.:)
PA hayseed, Don't think for a moment that I don't appreciate it! ;) ;)

Pat
 
/ Deer Fence Design #37  
I sure hope he posts a photo once he gets it all put together.

Wedge
 
/ Deer Fence Design #38  
heres how i did it and how i am going to re do it:)

around my orchard, 15-17 fruit trees, used redbrand wire that was about 4'high and on top of that put stonewrap (chicken wire) for another 3'. gives me a total of 7' the deer were testing the fence this winter but non came through. (we have huge deer pressure on our property)

around my garden is different. I put fencing to keep rabbits and groundhougs out. but the little rabbits and chippes fit through the holes and ate all the good stuff (that fence is 2x2--they will get in and eat). this year i am spacing posts (using landscape timbers backfilled with gravel(pea)) 10' and using rabbit guard fencing (homedepot has it 18 bucks for 50'). Smaller holes to keep out the little buggers. and then i will put my current fencing on top of that to keep out the deer. I willl also run my electric fence (6v batter with solar charger). This will keep the veggs safe. I hope to have the posts in tonight or by sat, depends on how deep our frost line is now. it was a good two -three inches on sat.

after that i will rip some decking to put over the fencing to help keep it in place, i figure a 1x2 piece will work nice, and that way if i have enough i will make it match the three rail fencing i put in around the house. If not no biggie, you cant see it from the road (main reason why i put the garden where it is).

make sure your deer fence is at least 6-7' high. they will jump it.
good luck
 

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