GA Cracker
New member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2022
- Messages
- 3
- Tractor
- LS MT345E
Deep well / tank question
I never had a deep well before and probably should have done a some research before putting my well back together. I purchased a Florida property with a mobile home about the time Hurricane Helene hit. A huge tree landed square on top of the well. Parts, plumbing, tank, check valve etc scattered around the yard. After cutting the tree off, discovered a 4” steel well casing with a well cap shoved down 18”inside the casing with a broke off 2-1/4” Tee and 12” nipple (all galvanized steel) laying inside. By luck the well pipe was still barely hanging in the rubber of the well cap and didn’t fall in.
I cut the well casing off just below the stuck well cap. And struggled to get well pipe up high enough to weld the casing back on. I cut the top of the damaged well pipe off, re threaded it, installed a new well cap and threaded a new 1-1/4” tee on top. The well is now hanging from the Tee that is supported by the well cap. With it powered up, the well still pumps good.
I found that the tank had all the fittings broke off with the remains of a float switch still in it. I put in a new Air Volume Control unit with float, pressurized the tank and checked for leaks. All is well. I thought it odd there wasn’t a Schroeder valve on the tank. I then discovered there wasn’t a bladder in the tank. Didn’t know there was such a thing as a bladder-less tank. I started reading about tanks, AVC valves, etc. I read that a check valve should be installed in the well if using an ACV float valve system.
Trailer will only be visited a few times a year, not concerned with smell or freezing.
The well is extremely difficult to pull up, although it will sure fall down in a hurry. I suspect pump may be swelled up. I’m unable to make any modifications or install a check valve below the well cap without opening up a can of worms..
My question is, does a check valve need to be installed at the top of the well? Does one need to be installed at all? Can i use the system as is, plug the tank where the float valve is, be vigilant about keeping the tank at 38 PSI ( 60/40 pressure switch) and have a working water system.?
Or can I have a check valve before the tank and keep the float (AVC) valve?
I never had a deep well before and probably should have done a some research before putting my well back together. I purchased a Florida property with a mobile home about the time Hurricane Helene hit. A huge tree landed square on top of the well. Parts, plumbing, tank, check valve etc scattered around the yard. After cutting the tree off, discovered a 4” steel well casing with a well cap shoved down 18”inside the casing with a broke off 2-1/4” Tee and 12” nipple (all galvanized steel) laying inside. By luck the well pipe was still barely hanging in the rubber of the well cap and didn’t fall in.
I cut the well casing off just below the stuck well cap. And struggled to get well pipe up high enough to weld the casing back on. I cut the top of the damaged well pipe off, re threaded it, installed a new well cap and threaded a new 1-1/4” tee on top. The well is now hanging from the Tee that is supported by the well cap. With it powered up, the well still pumps good.
I found that the tank had all the fittings broke off with the remains of a float switch still in it. I put in a new Air Volume Control unit with float, pressurized the tank and checked for leaks. All is well. I thought it odd there wasn’t a Schroeder valve on the tank. I then discovered there wasn’t a bladder in the tank. Didn’t know there was such a thing as a bladder-less tank. I started reading about tanks, AVC valves, etc. I read that a check valve should be installed in the well if using an ACV float valve system.
Trailer will only be visited a few times a year, not concerned with smell or freezing.
The well is extremely difficult to pull up, although it will sure fall down in a hurry. I suspect pump may be swelled up. I’m unable to make any modifications or install a check valve below the well cap without opening up a can of worms..
My question is, does a check valve need to be installed at the top of the well? Does one need to be installed at all? Can i use the system as is, plug the tank where the float valve is, be vigilant about keeping the tank at 38 PSI ( 60/40 pressure switch) and have a working water system.?
Or can I have a check valve before the tank and keep the float (AVC) valve?