Dealing with whipty-doos using a chain top link on a landscape grader.

[Diggin It]

Last few times I used my Landscape Rake, I did it with a chain. With a rigid top link, every time the front of the tractor goes up, it drives the rake down, making it dig into the surface and when the front goes down, the rake comes up, above the surface (the see-saw effect). Going back over the same area magnifies that effect and you end up worse than when you started.

The chain allows the rake to float up when the front of the tractor goes up (bends/pivots at the lift pins). The weight of the rake is enough to keep it down and moving material when level.

 

[oosik]

Without a picture - no idea what the OP's driveway looks like. I was getting a whole lot of annoying potholes in a 1000 foot stretch of my driveway. My driveway - one mile, all gravel.

Tried using my HD Rhino rear blade. Not fast enough on my hydraulic top link. Results were abysmal.

Changed over to my Land Pride LPGS. It has scarifiers. Back/forth several times with the scarifiers down. Scarifiers slightly down at first - full down with the final passes.

Then - scarifiers full up. A couple passes each way - smooth as a babies butt.

 

[workinonit]

I debated on putting scarifiers on my homemade LP I am building. Opted not to. I rarely use them on my box blade. If I need them I can add them later.

 

[shooterdon]

Sorry I was not using the correct name....I have what Gordon shows in his post. Land plane. My dealer called it a a grader.

A picture of the drive is useless in showing my issue. I have gently rolling dips and humps....about 4 in 200 yards. Feels like a very tame roller coaster when travelling on it.

I will try the chain as Gordon suggested and a piece of pipe to limit travel in case I hit something.

I have draft control and it helped a bit....maybe??

It is not a long drive, so if I have to make 20 passes that is not a problem. Trying to play with the solid top link is a bigger problem for me....I have little to no talent.

BTW, tried using an old rear blade when I first got the tractor and gave up. It was way too light. Plus it would dig into the dips and ride over the humps even when angled.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

 

[nyone]

4in deep across 200yrs...no matter what you use your going to have to manualy lower the hitch at the high spots and raise it in the low spots. You will need an attachment that will collect and move material. I never used a land plane so cant say if it's the best tool.

 

[WranglerX]

Think I would try a bit of light skimming of high spots with FEL and putting materials into low spots, then maybe some back dragging with FEL in float.... Then use land plane for final touch.... You might be expecting land plane to do more than its capable of....But then what do I know, I have fairly "smooth", level gravel drive way (300 feet) and when it starts to "washboard" I use home grown drag harrow to smooth it out....