Dead CK30 tachometer

[Highbeam]

125 hours. I was clearing brush today and noticed my tach was not working right. I was working at 2000 rpm but then I noticed the tach twitching at about 1000 and then zip. I wiggled some wires but everything was tight and not ripped loose from brush.

When I restart it will sometimes function fine for a short time and then go caput.

I checked wires at the alternator and all seemed tight. Is there a cable as described on an earlier post about the 3054? I didn't check the injector pump.

I did remove the grey lower side panel for the first time. Boy is that easy.

I'm a tachaholic so this is a problem. Thanks in advance.

 

[sodamo]

Had similar problem. See Tach Reads Zero
I pushed on the connectors abit, but I have a strange feeling it was my bent key. I have a nasty habit of hitting the key with right knee which not only shuts off engine, but bends the key. Seems I experience the tach problem until I straighten the key. Weird /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

David

 

[Highbeam]

Oh, that could be. I shot some lube down the slightly sticky keyhole the day before after lubing the throttle lever. I never thought to jiggle the key. I'll try that.

 

[WileyKioti]

I wonder if the lube had something to do with it. Not a lot of coincident's when it comes to electronics.

God Bless,
Dereck

 

[DAVE9FL]

Check some of the multi pin plugs on the engine side of the firewall. Have had a single wire back out of the plug and that was it.

Otherwise take it in and get a new instrument panel.

 

[Barrettseq]

Check under the left floor board and you should see a small red wire with a black plug out by itself. See if this plug has pulled apart. This is the odometer when plugged in will count the hours of use. Your RPMs may still work with this unplugged.

Good luck.

 

[TractorLegend]

I'm voting on the ignition switch w/ possible lube infiltration...

 

[Highbeam]

I took my can of plastic safe electrical parts cleaner with a tube and injected it into the switch yesterday. I Then inserted the freshly cleaned and straightened key and turned it through a few rotations but not to start. I figured the on position should make the tach connection. The key didn't move as easily as it did with the lube but I would rather a stiff switch than a dead tach. I started it up and the tach works. I ran the engine for a good while and it kept working. We'll see if the fix is permanent after this weekend.

Note to folks, no lube down the keyhole. Not even wd-40. Not sure what to do if the tumblers need lubing though.

 

[kentrodngun]

Try graphite powder or liquid graphite as a lube.

 

[Highbeam]

I was thinking some dielectric grease on the key itself to lube the actual point where the tumblers slide along the key pattern. The little bores where the tumblers slide will be on their own.

Wouldn't graphite conduct electricity and botch the contacts again?

 

[TractorLegend]

I have done on vehicles exactly what you said about using the silicone tune up paste to lube keys, dipping it in, operating ign/or lock several times and wiping any excess off key.
Dry graphite in moderation shouldnt be a problem, it doesn't wet leach into contacts so my non scientific survey says its ok.

 

[Highbeam]

So far all is well after the eparts cleaner. I spent a half day running it on Friday and the tach worked great. The throttle, however, had frozen up and needed additional wd-40 to break it loose. I'll try chain lube from the motorcyle section next time.

 

[TractorLegend]

I see the growing list of Highbeams spare parts:
corner light, ignition switch, tie rod bar, loader frame, throttle linkage- and of course the usual list of filters and oils... lol

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Highbeam]

Think I've got everything handled though except for that loader frame. That's a biggy. They don't make you keep the old one do they?

Then there's that silly dash with the clear plastic cover. I have gotten a good bit of dust behind the cover in a couple of hot spots. No water yet though.

Need a brush guard. I tried making one but can't find the time. Would rather be in the seat.

The real question is how many times do I break the same thing twice. I tend to learn my lessons about the equipment's limitations and not exceed them again, maybe I can pass a few of the particularly painful lessons to the TBN folks.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'll try chain lube from the motorcyle section next time. )</font>
Get you some of the white litium delayed viscosity spray lube. It works great, and lasts a long time.
John