A friend has a 1993 Case 2wd 1100 series tractor w/ a mounted Woods 165 front end loader which can’t be dismounted. I was told the husband disconnected the OSHA required safety equipment. 9 years ago, he was mowing with a brush hog and the tractor died. It would not restart. It was towed to the shed and sat. He passed away not long after this. Several mechanics, (?), have looked at it. The wife was told it needed a new wiring harness, I looked at it but didn’t have a test light or multimeter. I turned the engine over with a wrench on the crankshaft nut. I installed what I was told was a new battery. I checked the cables, Positive goes to top post on starter and negative goes to frame under the battery, Terminals look good and no rust on negative cable mount to frame. None of the gauges, light that flows on preheat or the lights work. The starter does not engage. I checked for a battery disconnect switch and found nothing. Not knowing the condition of the battery, I hooked up my jump pack. No difference. I found a remote starter switch and hooked it from the top terminal of the starter to the small male spade terminal on the solenoid behind the starter. Starter didn’t engage. Not knowing if the remote starter switch was good, I tried a screwdriver, starter didn’t engage, no spark or noise. I found the fuse box, it has 4 fuses, top to bottom, 20 amp, 10 amp, 10 amp, 20 amp. but the bottom 20 amp fuse was missing. The other 3 fuses are good. I took the top 20 amp fuse and put it in the bottom 20 amp holder, no difference in gauges, lights or starter. My jump pack was still fully charged when I got home. Any ideas where to start? I was dumbfounded when I jumped the starter, and it didn’t crank.
DJ54
Elite Member
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
First I'd make sure the starter has a good ground to chassis. Removing a mounting bolt and buff the starter mounting ear, run the bolt in and out several times and make sure the lock washer bites in good.
Even though the ground cable looks good where it mounts, remove and clean that area too.
For what it's worth, here a link of the Case 1130 at Case/IH online parts book showing the wiring harness. Case IH | 1130 - Case Ih Tractor | MyCNH US Store A service manual will probably give a better image of what goes where, but not seeing anything that would be less than $200-$250 but may be worth it.
Off the top of my head, not knowing what was disconnected, I'd look for wires connected to seat switch, neutral safety switch (diagram above in link shows 2. Probably for the main transmission and hi-lo, or whatever it has. PTO switch, etc.
But first you need to trace back from the ignition switch to the battery, to get power to the switch. Once you get power to the ign. switch you can test outward. A multimeter, or continuity tester to check safety switches etc. that are non-powered. I'm seeing some fuseable links in the wiring too, another good place to use the continuity tester.
I'm also assuming the wiring harness is color coded. Either different colored wires, or a black or other colored wires with a colored stripe. A service/repair manual should show the color code of wires, and where they go. Looking at the OEM manual wiring diagram may be a bit overwhelming, but easy to trace following one wire at a time, from point A to point B. Hopefully wiring was just unplugged, and not cut.
Even though the ground cable looks good where it mounts, remove and clean that area too.
For what it's worth, here a link of the Case 1130 at Case/IH online parts book showing the wiring harness. Case IH | 1130 - Case Ih Tractor | MyCNH US Store A service manual will probably give a better image of what goes where, but not seeing anything that would be less than $200-$250 but may be worth it.
Off the top of my head, not knowing what was disconnected, I'd look for wires connected to seat switch, neutral safety switch (diagram above in link shows 2. Probably for the main transmission and hi-lo, or whatever it has. PTO switch, etc.
But first you need to trace back from the ignition switch to the battery, to get power to the switch. Once you get power to the ign. switch you can test outward. A multimeter, or continuity tester to check safety switches etc. that are non-powered. I'm seeing some fuseable links in the wiring too, another good place to use the continuity tester.
I'm also assuming the wiring harness is color coded. Either different colored wires, or a black or other colored wires with a colored stripe. A service/repair manual should show the color code of wires, and where they go. Looking at the OEM manual wiring diagram may be a bit overwhelming, but easy to trace following one wire at a time, from point A to point B. Hopefully wiring was just unplugged, and not cut.
Tx Jim
New Member
Sounds as if 1 or both battery cables are not making good connections. It's possible battery cable has corrosion under the insulation causing loss of voltage.
thclimer
Platinum Member
If the old battery was still connected in the circuit it was most likely sucking all the power from your jump pack.
Additionally, if it sat in shed for that long I'd be looking for mouse destruction, chewed wiring, air cleaner packed, etc. What did the fluids look like, fuel/filter, oil, hydraulic, antifreeze?
Additionally, if it sat in shed for that long I'd be looking for mouse destruction, chewed wiring, air cleaner packed, etc. What did the fluids look like, fuel/filter, oil, hydraulic, antifreeze?
CliffordK
Veteran Member
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- Mar 8, 2013
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- 1,808
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- Eugene, Oregon
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- Toro D200, Ford 1715, International 884,
I'm with @Tx Jim. If you can't jump across the starter solenoid and make noise, and there are no lights on in the tractor, then it is likely that somehow you're not getting power.
Bring a known good battery with you. And a good battery terminal cleaner.
Even check the connection from battery terminal to the wires. Install new battery terminals?
Remove the ground connection from the chassis and clean it to bare metal, then reassemble.
All this maintenance is really good, but the checks need to be more technical. However simple. A digital DC volt meter with sharp leads will tell exactly which battery lead isn’t working, if that’s the case. Save a lot of elbow grease!