Cycle Stop Valve

[Eyecatcher]

We plant about an acre of garden, Up until now we have been irrigating out of a 4" well with a 3" trash pump and drip tape. In an effort to streamline our operation, we decided to bite the bullet and hook up the garden irrigation to our domestic well. We were warned that unless we used enough water to keep the pump running constantly, that constant cycling would shorten the life of the pump drastically. We were advised that the solution to the problem was a Cycle Stop Valve. Finally got all the other irrigation related plumbing done, so purchased the valve ($111.00) and installed yesterday. Adjusted pressures as outlined in the accompanying literature
and it worked great overnight for domestic water use, showers, laundry, cooking etc. This morning, turned on one bay of sprinklers on the lawn, and it ran about 1/2 hour and tripped the overload. I've done all the tests indicated inside the motor control cover, and it appears to me that the pump has a locked rotor. Control relay and capacitors appear to be ok, but all of the motor windings read a little high, and locked rotor amps is about 24. I think somehow I have fried the pump motor.
Being Sunday, we'll just have to survive until I can pursue it further tomorrow.
Has anyone else on here used the CSV? If so, any like problems? Any suggestions?

 

[Carl_NH]

So you have a 3 Wire pump with a control box and must be around 1HP? I looked into the CSV a few years ago for the same reasons (to run irrigation w/o stop/start of the pump. I took a different path and added more heads to balance the output of the pump to minimize frequent shut down.

Did the pump quit in the middle of sprinkling? Do you have enough water in the well?

As far as your adjustments, I understand you are to install the CSV before the switch and it essentially keeps the pump running as long as there is flow, but shuts it off say at 60 PSI at the switch or when there is 0 flow. This will prevent the pump from overheating and melting the impellers which could have happened and that's why you have a locked rotor.

You can see the specs for the motors in the gould pump manual and amp/wiring details/ohm readings.

You can try changing the capacitor in the box as a first check, but I would bet you need to pull the pump.

 

[Carl_NH]

There's another TBN member here from TX that is a well driller I believe - TheGoose - he has a lot of experience with wells in general and I would think CSV's too. He may spot this post and offer some advice or you could PM him.

Good Luck

 

[Eyecatcher]

Yes, it's a Sta Rite 3 wire 1hp pump (permanent split capacitor with a start kit). I had the well drilled and the pump installed 10 years ago. The pump quit while sprinkling the lawn, one section only, which it has done for 10 years. There's a panel of tests printed inside the cover of the controller housing, and it lists values for everything. Unfortunately, the installer didn't list the model# of the pump, so I don't know if those values are legitimate or not. His business is only a few miles away, and I'll be setting on his doorstep when he opens in the morning, with the guts of the controller in my hand for him to check, but I still think it has a locked rotor. We'll see what he has to say about everything. Thanx for the tip on The Goose. I'll give him a shot.

 

[Carl_NH]

Well 10 years is respectable life - I would have a spare pump on hand - you can get by replacing the motor but I prefer to do new everything while it's out.

What's your well depth - around 200 feet you can pull without machines, more than that use your tractor to pull with someone at the well head

 

[Carl_NH]

Here's a site that has a lot on pumps and controls for reference. Submersible Well Pumps from Goulds, Myers, Grundfos, and Pearl

 

[Xfaxman]

We have a CSV system, installed in 2006. We bought this place in 2011. No problems so far.

Here is how it works: Cycle Stop Valves, Inc.

My Thread on how I know when the pump is running: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/271589-water-well-pump-monitor.html

 

[TheGoose]

You can buy a new C-Box up to 1-HP from any of the big box stores.

I wouldn't go to too much trouble . If it has a new C-Box, and it is getting the right voltage, and it still doesn't work then pull it. Check to make sure the contactors aren't messed up. Best thing to do is put an ampmeter on the box to see how much current it is pulling.

If you have to replace your pump set your pressure switch at 60 if you're going to run your CSV at 50. That way, as long as you are using water the CSV will keep the pump running at 50 psi. Once you quit using water it will slowly let the pressure build up to 60 psi and shut off. If you're switch is set at 50 and your CSV is set at 50 you're not gaining anything.

I really don't mess with CSV's that much but I do have one on my personal well made by Flomatic.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Goose, I apologize for being this late in thanking you for your advise. I set it up as you recommended above, and everything seems to work well. I've got enough t-tape stretched, that the pressure gauges I have installed on each side of my filter stay about 40 pounds while the irrigation is valved on, then build up to 50 and shut off. Probably didn't need the CSV, but don't always run the entire irrigations system. Anyway, I thank you for your expertise.

 

[TheGoose]

What ended up being the problem? C-Box bad?