Cutting R Panel recommendations
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txdon
Super Star Member
Does anyone know if the warranty is voided on the panel if it is cut with a certain tool/method?
wroughtn_harv
Super Member
txdon said:
I don't think the warranty would be an issue unless the rust isn't from scratches incurred in the cutting process.
We'll be cutting R panels at the get together at Don's place in Lee County.
We use everything from box knives to different saws. I personally can't handle the scream of the circular saw blade method. I have two different kinds of manual snips, aviation right, left, and straight, and sheet metal ships. I also have an Milwaukee electric shear and a Bosch nibbler.
Lengthwise cuts we've found are easiest accomplished with a box or utility knife if you can use a seam as a guide. You score the metal with the box knife and then bend the metal back and forth. It's a lot easier than it sounds, really.
The problem with the nibbler is the kazillion finger nail clippings it leaves. Imagine finger nail clippings that are made of steel with needle sharp edges. It cuts fast but it consumes about three eighths of an inch in the process.
The electric shear also works good for length cuts or cross cuts except for the R grooves themselves. Then you need two men and a boy to manipulate the panel to get the shear with it's foot in and around.
If the hand snips are in good condition they're the best for crosscuts if you don't have too many cuts. It's just hard. But it is what it is. So you have to suck up and just do it.
A lot of the professionals use a cutting torch with a small tip. Their burn mark is usually less than half an inch and is covered by trim. It takes some practice to get good using a torch. But a professional can make it look easy and neat.
I use a plasma on occasion. The burn mark is usually less than a sixteenth of an inch. If I did this professionally I'd probably invest in one of those combination one ten plasmas with the built in compressor. They can't cut much for thickness but with the sheeting you're only looking at twenty four gauge maximum.
The sheeting must be treated with respect. It's a razor blade when it gets some speed and makes a slicing cut. The trimmings are hazards even months later if not picked up for animals and the unwary human.
Any scratch can ruin the appearance of a wall under the right circumstances. A little scratch can produce rust stains much bigger than the rust line itself.
txdon said:
So far, all I've found is that the recommended method is snips (manual or power) or a nibbler. I haven't seen anything that mentions voiding a warranty if other methods are used. I'ved used both and prefer power shears to nibblers.
Just finished a bunch of metal siding and roofing on my garage extension, and found that the metal cutting fiber blade worked best in my Skil saw. I have tried the backwards plywood blade in the past, but it's slow and real noisy, plus the cut quality wasn't good. I got the blade for the saw at Lowe's for less than $4, and it still is in good shape, there are some sparks and noise so wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt. Like another person said, turn the sheets upside down so you're not sawing over the humps. I clamped a metal edge to the sheeting to use like a rip fence when sawing long lengths.
Sometimes I really feel like an idiot. Turn the thing over, and don't scratch the paint or deal with the humps!
Just got through cutting 11 sheets today with a Masterhand (read chinese) metal cutting saw purchased from Tractor Supply a couple years ago. Worked well except for the guard hanging up on first cut, so I plunge cut first then backed up when i could.
I am here to learn, and you just taught me something today.
Just got through cutting 11 sheets today with a Masterhand (read chinese) metal cutting saw purchased from Tractor Supply a couple years ago. Worked well except for the guard hanging up on first cut, so I plunge cut first then backed up when i could.
I am here to learn, and you just taught me something today.