Cub cadet RZT 50 hydrostatic transmission

[OldMachinist]

The bearing in the idle pulley does go bad after awhile. I've replaced the idler pulley three times in over 400 hours on my Z Force 50. The first time I replaced it because it was plastic and one side of it had worn off. The new pulleys I got from MTD were steel.

 

[brianholland]

When your pulley went bad those times, did it cause the jumping or bouncing of the belt like I described? If so, that might be it.

 

[OldMachinist]

Yes when the bearing starts to fail you get noise, vibration and power loss. It's easy to check just release the spring tension, drop the belt off and see how it feels when you spin it by hand. Also check that the arm it mounts on rotates freely.

 

[brianholland]

Just a follow-up in case others have a similar problem. While taking the old drive belt off I was inspecting the right hand transmission pulley. While spinning it around I noticed something wedged into the grove of the pulley. It was something that looked like wood but had somehow melted to the pulley itself. A quick pop with a flat head screwdriver removed it and the mower is running like new again. Picture is attached. Do a careful check of each pulley if you have a similar problem. Thanks for all the suggestions, they got me going in the right direction.

 

[cpk68]

I think I'm having the same issues with the right side of my RZT22. Could someone please email me the manual for the Hydro Gear transmission?

Thanks.

 

[rplewis]

I would also like a transmission manual for the RZT50 if anyone has one. It seems I am having simular problems as described here.


Thanks,

RP

 

[TRWILL]

Richard, to date, Hydrogear is the only one in the game with an integrated zero-turn trans-axle unit. You probably could set your RZT50 up with a Hydrogear ZT-2800, 3100 or beyond (with some modifications to the machine), but costs can be higher than the whole machine is worth.

Setting your RZT50 up with separate pump and wheel motor drives like a $$$$ commercial machine would be a major ordeal.

I thought I had heard that Tufftorq was getting into the integrated ZTR trans game, but I've yet to see one.

Joel

I'm just coming on board for the first time. I hope I'm doing this right??? I was looking at the difference between the zt2100and zt2200 drives and the zt2800. The 2800 has different mounting positions but probably could be installed with slight modification.

I have a 4 month old rzt 50 with 71 hours and it is having the same problem on the left drive. I see in many threads that changing the oil may have fixed the problem. I have worked on many hydraulic systems (but not hydraulic drives) and I have yet to see Oil break down like that. Torque converters in autos take a real beating and the oil hold up there very well. I may be all wet, but my first impression is a leak or blowby somewhere in the system. In trying to diagnose my problem I can hear what sounds like a faint swooshing sound wheen power is applied. I have not taken it down yet but my fitst impression is the bypass valve leaking. When I operate the lever it does not feel quite the same as the right side. It feels like it is binding slightly.

Whatever I find if anything I'll let you know.

TRWill

 

[TRWILL]

In my previous reply I suspected that the bypass valve was not closing. I was correct. The left unit would barely moove in any direction when cold, hot, or anytime. I do not know why it would not close. I don't know why it was open to begin with. I removed the cover and pulled the jackshaft and could see the bypass valve was slightly open. When I touched th operating lever, it snapped closed. ??? The operating lever opens the bypass when moved in either direction. Before disassembly there was over an inch of free play. After the valve closed there was only about 3/4 in. free play. When reinstalled, it worked as it should.

I have another issue. after mowing in wet grass, the left drive lost most of it's drive. I quit mowing and waited for things to dry out. The problem was still there but not as bad. After an hour or so the right side also lost driv but not as bad as the left. The original drive belt is cloth covered. When it gets wet it slips. When it slips with all that horsepower, it only takes a few minutes to over heat the belt and it turnes into a rubber band. I think ( not positive without experimenting) why the left side starts to slip before the right side is the placement of the tensioner pully is to close to the engine pully. It should be closer to the left pump pulley. When under a load the engine pully pulleys the belt tight around all the pulleys and the tentioner takes the up slack between the last pulley and the engine pulley. Being to close to the engine this allows the belt to whip out reducing the contact surface on the left pump and it ,being under load, slips. One answer is to get a better belt. One that will perform better. Another is to redesign the tentioner. Getting a better belt is much easier. MTD makes a better belt that is all rubber with good backing. The Number is 954-04043A and I see them on line for as little as $28.00. Any way this works for me. My Cub jumps around like a wild hog. By the way, I mow about 15 acres with it and it sure is nice when it works right.

 

[rplewis]

TRWILL... would you happen to have the manual for the RZT50? If so could you send it to me?
Thanks,
RP

 

[TRWILL]

TRWILL... would you happen to have the manual for the RZT50? If so could you send it to me?
Thanks,
RP

Sorry ..... I do not have a service manual.
TRWILL