Cub Cadet 1812

[thetooth]

Just came across a model 1812 . Tractor starts and runs fine but I would like to replace the hydro and engine filters and oil .

Looking for recommendations for the hydro oil I have read that Shell Rotella 15w-40 is acceptable .

Thanks for your help

 

[Carl_NH]

The 1812 is a nice machine Hyd front ports and lift - nice find!

Use the Cub Cadet or IH Hytran available at CC dealers by the gallon or some say its cheaper at IH dealers. It's made for the CC transmissions - you will need 2 gallons.

Also pick up a filter there too, some other filters will work, but some that look the same dont work the same internally so its easier to get the right one since this is not done that often.

I tried the standard Hyd. fluid in my 1811 and result when hot was more squealing from the tranny and thinning out (one of the valves on the top of the tranny leaked too) but when I changed back to Hytran no more problems - I did have to replace the valve tho.

These are very good units if taken care of - post some pics when you have a chance.

Carl

 

[thetooth]

Thanks for the information . I will search for a cub cadet dealer , I might luck out out Home depot or Tractor supply if not I will have to wait till monday for the dealer to open back up . The deck is a little rough and I don't know yet if all the parts are there to attach the dozer blade , but the tractor runs strong .

 

[thetooth]

By the way where is the drain plug for the engine oil it is not shown in the manual . I believe it's in the front of the engine you would have to use a hex key . thanks

 

[rcbe]

if you get full engine model/type/serial number info from either decal or stamped info on engine sheet metal - go to the engine's mfgr website - d/l owner/serv manuals - should find detail on oil drain/filter/etc. ....

 

[Carl_NH]

OK,

Thanks for the pics it appears to be in decent condition - a couple of things:

There should be side sheilds on both sides of the engine (under the white side covers) that direct the cooling air over the fins on the head - w/o these it could overheat longer term.

The deck - I would grease the heck out of the spindles (if they turn freely) then do a wire brush/sander on the deck and prime/paint - it will look like new.

Rear axle / hitch plate - its usually attached directly to the AL transaxle and this is known to pull out if pulling towing heavy loads (ask me how I know ) So if you go on line and find a hitch plate - there is one here R.F. Houtz & Son, Inc. - Product Display This bolts onto the main frame left and right and is 1/4" thick - it is stout.

This is the best solution for the hitch..

For the engine oil drain, its a 11/16" I think and its up under the frame middle of engine plug on the bottom - you can feel it with your fingers.. I use a deep well socket to loosen.

For the transmission you can either pull the rear plate (if its leaking) and drain and clean it out, or there is a plug in the front bottom of the transaxle on the left side (from the rear) that I usually drain the tranny.

Refilling - its a PIA to get 7 quarts back thru the small fill port, but what I do is a medium sized funnel fits tightly inside that fill port then I wrap tape around the funnel and the metal top and slowly pour it in. Watch out as it likes to "burp" oil as the air escapes.

For paint, TSC has inexpensive white and yellow paint too.

Good luck.

Carl

 

[thetooth]

Thanks for the tips Carl . I found the drain plug shortly after posting the question :ashamed: . I do have the side panels I powerwashed the motor when I brought it homw last night ( had about 1/2 of gunk on it ) . The mower deck is frozen so I am soaking it in penetrating oil for a bit . Thanks for the help and tips

 

[rcbe]

caution on that power washer use - these tractors are not made with a weatherproof elect system and will rust/corrode at connections/switches in a new york minnit..

 

[thetooth]

caution on that power washer use - these tractors are not made with a weatherproof elect system and will rust/corrode at connections/switches in a new york minnit..

Thanks for the heads up . Tractor turned out good so far , but i will put a little dielectric grease on the connections . I was very cautious with the wand and the pressure . I am in the process now of applying a $10 / 10 foot rattle can paint job to spruce her up a bit just did the engine oil and plugs , hydro will have to wait till i can get the right filter and oil .

 

[Carl_NH]

Sounds great!

I did the same thing to my 1811 2 yrs ago - tho it was more of a touch up after 20 years than a complete respray.

When you get it done look forward to some pics! Heres several of my 1811.

Carl

 

[thetooth]

Wow looks like new Carl . I need to get a few more rattle cans , but here is today's progress

 

[thetooth]

By the way Carl when you get a chance could you take a photo of the engine with the hood up . I have an engine shroud I can't find a place for I believe it goes up front . Also would like to see how the side panels attach by the headlights I have them bolted by the steering wheel but only wired by the headlights .

thanks

 

[Carl_NH]

Lookin Good Tooth, nice progress,

Here are two shots taken tonight of the right side engine cowling (under the white side panels) then the other one is the top of the engine and shrouding.

I didnt have the best light but I think you get the idea. Essentially the engine is surrounded by cooling shrouding including the exhaust / muffler which pushes all the air from the rear fan to the front of the unit. This is INSIDE the white side panels which are more for show.

Black metal shrouds are on both sides L&R - shrouding is attached by 3/8" head auto type fasteners thru clips on the shroud - these are a PIA to R&R.

On the top side to hold the front of the white panels in place is a spring (mine broke so i added a wire to one end) and it connects to the top holes on the white side panels.

Hope this helps.

Carl

 

[thetooth]

Perfect thanks Carl .

 

[thetooth]

Stopped at the Case dealer yesterday picked up up 2 gallons of Hy-tran and a hydro filter , made a huge difference with the sound of the tranny and the way the hydraulics sound . Cut the old filter apart it was black and had a coating of slime .

Bought some new decals and a few more rattle cans . Thanks for the help .

 

[Carl_NH]

Looking good - glad the hytran and filter worked out - you will not have to deal with that for a few years anyway.

Also do you plan to tow/pull anything - If you do I would go for the HD hitch plate.

How does the mower look now - did you get the bearings loosened up or is that a R&RR job?

They arent cheap as you probably found out - they are on ebay tho from time to time.

Also, check the tension spring/pulley on the mower drive belt (under the shroud) mine seemed to slip and found out the spring had broken under the bolt so it appeared to be OK and $10 later was back in business.

 

[thetooth]

thanks for the help Carl . I think the mower deck is a lost cause the bearings are frozen and the mounting bracket is missing some parts , the blade is also a loss with out the mounting bracket .

Right now i plan on using is to pull my aerator , lawn sweeper , and for moving the chicken coup . Later on down the line I may invest the money to restore the deck , but right now I have a simplicty and a kubota to tackle grass mowing .

Thanks for you help . And you were right is was a pain to get all that hydro fluid back in . I tried to be clever and leave the filter cracked open to aleave the burping but the fluid just pouted right out :ashamed: so much for being clever .