I have read numerous posts on troubles with the hydrostat pedal not returning properly. Seems to be different opinions or different cases of just what cures the problem. I know the original pedal return cylinder was part #6695874 and replaced with part #7022773. Seems the newer one maybe has stronger spring. My hydrostat works beautifully other than the pedal not returning at all times. Everything is properly cleaned and greased. This cylinder is high dollar, however, if I though it would solve my problem I would buy it. Opinions??
CT235 pedal return cylinder
- Thread starter winston1
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Pierrepont
Silver Member
Winston,
What does the new and improved cylinder cost please?
Thanks.
What does the new and improved cylinder cost please?
Thanks.
I have only priced it at the local Bobcat dealer and can't remember exactly but around $275. I am going to price it at a Kioti dealer toward the end of the week. Cheapest I have found on line is Kioti at Tractor Joe for $256.92.
Just another note about my pedal operation. When going downhill or not pulling hard the pedal will come to neutral quickly. When pulling hard the pedal may not come to neutral without help or very slowly. Anyone else have those symptoms? Is that normal?
Just another note about my pedal operation. When going downhill or not pulling hard the pedal will come to neutral quickly. When pulling hard the pedal may not come to neutral without help or very slowly. Anyone else have those symptoms? Is that normal?
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tman1020
Veteran Member
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- Tractor
- Bobcat ct225 and Bad Boy zero turn
I have a 2012 model CT 225 I have not had any of the problems you're mentioning yet but I have less than 200 hours. Keep us posted as to your solution if you find one please.
MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Mine seems to work ok as long as I keep it clean and lubed. I don't know if a new cilinder is the cure or not.
powerscol
Veteran Member
I have the replacement peddle and it work better than the original. However under heavy loading, like digging into a dirt pile, it will not return quickly. I just get used to the heal action needed and don't worry about it.
I have gotten used to having to tap it to get a start too. Not complaining, it just part of the normal start procedure now. I was going to try some dry white/clear graphite lube (is a spray squeeze bottle you can use on guns) Its supposed not to attract dirt. I think it is labeled " brake free" It worked wonders on a old stiff 06 Springfield action way back when.
I have gotten used to having to tap it to get a start too. Not complaining, it just part of the normal start procedure now. I was going to try some dry white/clear graphite lube (is a spray squeeze bottle you can use on guns) Its supposed not to attract dirt. I think it is labeled " brake free" It worked wonders on a old stiff 06 Springfield action way back when.
I made it to the local Kioti dealer today and had a leisurely conversation with their licensed mechanic. He stated sometimes the newer cylinder with stronger springs might help but most times not. Sometimes a weak hydrastat pump is the cause. Telling him my symptoms his conclusion was to remove all the cylinder linkage, clean it up and re-lube. He had seen one come in with grease all over it but when disassembling he had found hardened lubricant and once cleaned up it begin working as it should. He stated if not feeling a danger in operating to keep on keeping on. He also stated they do not use the Kioti fluid but use another. He stated the Traveler fluid sold by Tractor Supply was fine to use. I feel much better having spoken to him. Next on my list is to change fluid and filters and remove and clean all pedal linkage. Not expecting the fluid change to make a difference but I want to know I am running clean filters and fluid. Should I happen to have any change in pedal operation I will report back. Thanks to all for your feedback.
PS. After talking with the mechanic I did not bother to price the new cylinder.
PS. After talking with the mechanic I did not bother to price the new cylinder.
apctjb
New member
I have a 2011 CT230 with 150 hrs which has the problem of continuing to drive forward even after removing foot from drive pedal. It is only by tapping it into reverse momentarily that forward motion can be stopped. The problem has gotten worse over time. I have not yet replaced the hydraulic filter although the fluid is full and looks as clean as day 1.
While tapping reverse is no big deal I am concerned about safety of others (friends and neighbors that borrow it) and my wife who gets freaked out when the tractor keeps moving forward. So I would like to fix this problem.
Would appreciate input from others that have experienced and solved this problem as to the parts to check or replace starting with the simplest and progressing to the most complicated/expensive.
Thanks in advance.
While tapping reverse is no big deal I am concerned about safety of others (friends and neighbors that borrow it) and my wife who gets freaked out when the tractor keeps moving forward. So I would like to fix this problem.
Would appreciate input from others that have experienced and solved this problem as to the parts to check or replace starting with the simplest and progressing to the most complicated/expensive.
Thanks in advance.
Just completed new filters and fluid. Linkage taken apart and cleaned, re-lubed. No difference. Same feelings as you apctjb. I really believe the only thing that will change it would be a new pump. I believe they are above $3000 and I don't think I have $3000 worth of problems so I am going to keep on trucking and tap the pedal as needed.
