PutnamVictor
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2009
- Messages
- 52
I have to remove about .005" off a 1" rod or the inside of a DOM tube to create a slip fit. Without a lathe, can this be done?
Creating a slip fit
- Thread starter PutnamVictor
- Start date
- Views: 6191
BHD
Veteran Member
when I built my back hoe I bought a set of the hand adjustable reamers and they seem to work well in situations like this and there price is not that bad, IMO,
I think mine were from ENCO, most likely about the same quality as the Harbor Freight set, but just posting for info only,
11 Piece Adjustable Hand Reamer Set
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2
or
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=75&PARTPG=INLMK32
I think mine were from ENCO, most likely about the same quality as the Harbor Freight set, but just posting for info only,
11 Piece Adjustable Hand Reamer Set
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK32?PARTPG=INSRAR2
or
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=75&PARTPG=INLMK32
SpudHauler
Gold Member
I removed .001" from a brass item using my drill press to spin the thing and held sandpaper against it, but it was small and easy to do. Accuracy was not a huge concern.
Kays Supply
Veteran Member
I have removed small amounts from the inside of bushings using a hone for piston sleeves. For smaller bushings I have used brake hones. Keep them wet and be patient.
whistlepig
Elite Member
I have done this with a flapper sander wheel and a die grinder. Don't bear down too hard and don't let the flapper wheel sit still in one spot.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
i've turned the od and id of some items to get them together as others indicated.. using abrasives.. or spinning abrasives.
.005 ain't much..
soundguy
.005 ain't much..
soundguy
LD1
Epic Contributor
If the part aint too big and you have some local machine shops in the area, if may only cost you a few bucks vs several hours trying to do it yourself without the proper tools. And the end result will probabally be far superior.
OP
PutnamVictor
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2009
- Messages
- 52
Lots of good suggestions. I'm going with BHD's reamer idea. I have never seen this tool before, and it's within my budget. :thumbsup:
smiley
Platinum Member
If it's a long shaft, I removed about 1/8 inch off a 8ft long shaft by putting about a 6 inch pulley on the end and running it through the pillow blocks that was going to hold it on the tractor, then I spun it with an electric motor, took the grinder to the other end and ground it down while spinning. I touched it up with a file and was within about .005. Plenty close enough for the 550 rpm pto shaft.
I posted photos of the operation 2 or 3 yrs ago over on the old MBN site if interested.
If you only have to remove .005, a file would do it quickly.
Smiley
whistlepig
Elite Member
If you are going to use these use a lubricant with them. Cutting oil works the best but any kind of oil is better than trying to use them dry.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
.005 ??? several hours? several minutes maybee. several hours and he could make a toothpick out of a 1" round using 80 grit
soundguy
LD1
Epic Contributor
.005 ??? several hours? several minutes maybee. several hours and he could make a toothpick out of a 1" round using 80 grit
soundguy
But that is assuming he has a way to spin the shaft. If he has to do it all by hand (ie shaft in one and sandpaper in other) then it will take longer.
Not to mention how much time is spent trying to decide how to do it.
A few calls to some machine shops doesnt cost anything and only take a few minutes for peice of mind.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
that just takes some creative thinking.. no big deal... I've used a hand drill and a piece of radiator hose about 4" long, with each end split anout 1" and 2 hose clamps to spin round stock before. ( flexible coupler... then you just use a pillow block.. or make a pillow block... where there's a will.. there's a way.. just got to want to do it.. and have some basic tools and materials.. even scrap materials. ) ( ps.. a 2x4 and a hole saw and some grease makes a great 1-use temp pillow block.. cut each end down so you can bolt it to your table.. make your hole squarely thru, drill a very small hole from the top down into the bore.. like 1/8 or so, then drill out the top of that hole so that you can scre in a 1/8" pipe threaded nipple.. atop that threaded nipple take a 1" pipe cap and drill it and tap it and add it as a cup atop the threaded coupler that is screwed down about 3/8" into the wood. now fill the cup with oil.. and it will oil the shaft.. also go ahead and greas the wood. old design.. wood bearings are from days gone by in old farm implements.... )
soundguy
whistlepig
Elite Member
.005 ??? several hours? several minutes maybee. several hours and he could make a toothpick out of a 1" round using 80 grit
soundguy
I agree. I would flapper wheel the bore or sand the shaft. I have done this many times. I have the tools to do this. Maybe a half hour or so. I have used the adjustable hand reamers and can borrow these reamers from work if I wanted. Given the choice I would still sand the parts.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I made a new steering column tube for my 8n after finding some thin walled 1.5" OD pipe that was a few thousands over sized on the OD where the tube needed to be pressed into a cast top cover for the box. on the other side, the ID needed to be opened up a few .00X to press in a steering bushing.
I used my poor mans spinning deal I detailed above and used emory paper to turn down the OD, and on the ID, I used a stone chucked into another hand drill and let them counter rotate. again. it took longer to drill out the 2x4 and nail it down to my bench than it did to pull a few .00X off the OD of one side and the ID of the other.
that tube has been living in my 8n for right at 10ys now...
soundguy
I used my poor mans spinning deal I detailed above and used emory paper to turn down the OD, and on the ID, I used a stone chucked into another hand drill and let them counter rotate. again. it took longer to drill out the 2x4 and nail it down to my bench than it did to pull a few .00X off the OD of one side and the ID of the other.
that tube has been living in my 8n for right at 10ys now...
soundguy
Attachments
doall
Platinum Member
pretty cool ideas. I like people that get it done.
Ford tractor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2010
- Messages
- 975
Get a 6, 8 or 10" long 1/2" bolt. Cut the head off, saw the shaft length wise about 2-3". Put sandpaper in and wrap it (grit out) with more sandpaper until it's just a bit LARGER than the ID. Spin it with a drill at low speed. The paper will tighten as it spins and the hole will get larger pretty quick.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 52,424
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
a wood dowell rod works real good for that too! though it's pretty much a 1-use. I bet the bolt or round stock is multi-use. good ideas!
soundguy
soundguy
Renze
Super Member
When building my frontloader i had all bushings lathed to h7 tolerance, however they all shrunk from welding them into the boom. I had to ream them with an M14 nut (same as the thread on an angle grinder) weld a 1" pipe to it and grind a longitudinal slot into it, in which i could fold a piece of sandpaper.
the 750W angle grinder didnt like it and died eventually, but i just didnt have the guts to try it on my 2300w grinder, in case it would bind...
Lotsa dust, but at this speed you can do a lot in little time... Just dont retract it too much, and never get your face near the radius the sandpaper might go if it releases...
If you know the risks and know how to deal with them, this might be a cheap ticket for you... If you havent been around tools and machinery too much, i'd suggest you draw your wallet and buy reamers, or let a machine shop do it.
p.s. a full face grinding mask will stop any rags of sandpaper that might get slung around, so the risks are manageable.
the 750W angle grinder didnt like it and died eventually, but i just didnt have the guts to try it on my 2300w grinder, in case it would bind...
Lotsa dust, but at this speed you can do a lot in little time... Just dont retract it too much, and never get your face near the radius the sandpaper might go if it releases...
If you know the risks and know how to deal with them, this might be a cheap ticket for you... If you havent been around tools and machinery too much, i'd suggest you draw your wallet and buy reamers, or let a machine shop do it.
p.s. a full face grinding mask will stop any rags of sandpaper that might get slung around, so the risks are manageable.
