3-Point Hitch Cranky 3PT Leveler

[TomK]

I'm looking for a better 3pt leveler for my 3054XS. The tractor came with a barrel type leveler, but I want a crank type leveler like the CKs have. I tried modifying a Ford 8N crank leveler, but it couldn't hold up to the beating an 800 lb box scraper put it through. Is there a crank type leveler out there that will work on my 3054XS?

 

[JerryG]

I have had two tractors with he same leveler box. I have used the same box blade which is about a 1000 pounds with the weights on it. There has never been a problem and I would say that I have use the box for about 400 hours total. When we was building our farm it was used extensively. I would think that the leveler box on my tractor would be about the same size as yours. It even looks like the connections are the same. All OEM leveler boxes are very expensive. You might try a different after market box before putting out for a high OEM model. How about getting a hydraulic one from Mark Carter?

 

[wallace]

I can't see why the ck 25 or 30 wouldn't work.

 

[TomK]

I can't see why the ck 25 or 30 wouldn't work.

I'm not sure, but I thought the top lift arm link setup was differant on the CK models. How much is a CK cranker?

 

[TomK]

I have had two tractors with he same leveler box. I have used the same box blade which is about a 1000 pounds with the weights on it. There has never been a problem and I would say that I have use the box for about 400 hours total. When we was building our farm it was used extensively. I would think that the leveler box on my tractor would be about the same size as yours. It even looks like the connections are the same. All OEM leveler boxes are very expensive. You might try a different after market box before putting out for a high OEM model. How about getting a hydraulic one from Mark Carter?

JerryG, I think the gears jammed up into the top cap and I can't turn the crank. It was in use for under 75 hours.

 

[wallace]

Tom, just looked at the parts breakdown and they are deffenetally different.

 

[HODAK]

JerryG, I think the gears jammed up into the top cap and I can't turn the crank. It was in use for under 75 hours.

I have a 2005 CK30 and never attemted to use the crank until a month ago when I was using a rear blade. It won't move in either direction. Something is jammed up - I just haven't bothered to look at it yet. Let's see, I do have an available set of remotes..................maybe someone can tell me which direction would lengthen the link. Clockwise or counter clockwise???

 

[Highbeam]

Clockwise lever cranking shortens the link.

It is very hard to crank up or down if there is weight on it. To cheat a little I will set the implement on the ground just until I see slop in the links joints and then adjust it freely.

 

[TomK]

I figured it out. It wasn't a failure of the gearbox, it was a bent threaded rod that was jamming against the fork, caused by hitting against the lower control arm. A little fine tuning with the adjustment tools shown in the picture and it turns freely between the forks again. I just need to figure out how I can cut off about an inch of the threaded rod so it won't interfere with the lower control arm anymore. The end threads are too banged up to remove the fork.

Cranky will ride again!

 

[HODAK]

I figured it out. It wasn't a failure of the gearbox, it was a bent threaded rod that was jamming against the fork, caused by hitting against the lower control arm. A little fine tuning with the adjustment tools shown in the picture and it turns freely between the forks again. I just need to figure out how I can cut off about an inch of the threaded rod so it won't interfere with the lower control arm anymore. The end threads are too banged up to remove the fork.

Cranky will ride again!




AHHHH.......that could be some useful info. Thanks to Highbeam also. I have backed into a tree a few times when using my carry all. And, it was on that side. If I try and crank counter clockwise, I gain a little bit when going back and forth. A bent rod could be the problem. I guess today might be a good day to finally figure out what's going on. It's so icy here that there isn't much else to do. Thanks for the info.

 

[HODAK]

3PH crank problem solved. Only needed about 20 minutes. Turns out it was desperately needing some lubrication. I removed the link from the tractor and verified that the gears were fine and then put the crank in a vise. I used a prybar in the "fork" end and gently (ha) worked the threads back and forth. After removing the small bolt from the cover, I noticed how dry and rusty the threads were. Added some oil and kept working until everything was smooth. The grease fitting for the rod is in a poor location in my opinion. You can fill the lower portion of the sleeve with grease, but if you never shorten the rod so that the threads reach into the grease, the grease will never get to any threads. Anyway, all is well once more. From now on I'll not only add grease, but crank it in and out now and then. There goes the hydraulic tilt cylinder.....

 

[IXLR8]

From now on I'll not only add grease, but crank it in and out now and then. There goes the hydraulic tilt cylinder.....

But if you went with the hydraulic tilt cylinder... you would never have to worry about lubricating it again, it lubes itself. It would be one less spot to have to remember to hit with the grease gun. And then you still have to take all that time, and energy, to crank it in and out to lube it after hitting it with the grease gun.
That is my story and I am sticking to it... I'm ordering a TNT for mine next week when I get my bonus.