Craftsman GT3000 - Is some hotness normal on the 30 amp power fuse

tomplum · Aug 24, 2024

Replace the fuse holder and try try again....

Valhalla3 · Aug 26, 2024

This holder has one wire that connects to a wire from a junction through an inline bullet connector that goes to the positive battery post. The other wire goes right up to the ammeter with a spade connector. So I can get it out easily but I will have to splice the connectors on the ends of the wires from the new connector. Any tips on splicing this since a good connection if imperative?

tomplum · Aug 26, 2024

If you wish, run it direct to the + battery lug. That takes the little bullet connector out of the equation. You could say the same about the ammeter if you still had an issue and run it direct to the B terminal on the key switch, which is where I am assuming it goes.

Valhalla3 · Sep 12, 2024

I have solved the problem with the 30 amp fuse being blown and then getting hot with engine running. After checking for shorts and ruling out the fuel shut-off solenoid and the PTO clutch and the charging system, I focused on the fuse and fuse holder. When the fuse blew originally, it melted the plastic fuse case and was gooey trying to get the fuse out. Another fuse was getting hot while engine was running even though there was a normal amount of current flowing. It was only the top of the fuse that was getting hot and then fuse holder and wires just coming out of it if I let the engine run for 30 seconds or so. Nothing else anywhere was getting hot. I started thinking that maybe a power gap was what cause the fuse to blow and melt in the first place. Now it was only the fuse getting hot so I made a new fuse holder out of spade connectors and that solved the problem.