County Line Post Hole Digger - Watch which one you get!

[orangetree]

considering the cheaper PHD vs the EA digger mentioned in this thread for 50 or so 12inch holes. I'll probably find use for it elsewhere.

• TSC CountryLine - $550+$180(12") + store pickup
  • https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-3-point-post-hole-digger-602377?cm_vc=-10005
• D&B Behlen Country- $600+$190(12") + store pickup
  • pictures don't speak to tube wall thickness or weld quality, but this one LOOKS weaker than the CountryLine - anyone seen them side by side?
  • Behlen Country 80113000YEL | D&B Supply
• EA - CUT model - $1120 w/12" + shipping (rated for up to 18" auger)
  • Tractor 3 Point Post Hole Digger For Up To 18 Inch Hole
  • also a slightly cheaper one ($1000 w/ 12") only rated to 12" Compact Tractor Post Hole Digger 3 point hitch tall narrow arch 48'' auger length

Is the EA worth the ~$500 more? 50% more for made-in-usa and rated to use an 18" digger?

The 18" digger would be fantastic for planting trees (12" works - but 18" allows for a lot more easy topsoil fill, we have really poor sand/clay soil, little organic matter); but can my ~20pto HP ck2610 handle it?

 

[s219]

I doubt a 20HP tractor can effectively spin an 18" auger unless the soil is very soft and light. If you have clay soil I will warn you that the spoils that come out of the hole can be a pain to deal with. Yes, the auger takes the work out of digging the hole but then you need to deal with the spoils and it's not easy with clay soil in volumes. When I drill 12" diameter 30" deep holes with my PHD (TSC model), the clay that comes out of the hole is a sticky mess that defies all methods of shoveling or transport. I have learned the hard way to immediately get it shoveled into the front bucket and away from the job site before it starts getting compacted by traffic. It will stick to tires and shoe soles something fierce. It won't self compact or re-compact and is useless for grading or fill.

 

[orangetree]

I doubt a 20HP tractor can effectively spin an 18" auger

That was my intuition (no direct experience) - however this afternoon i talked with Everything Attachements, and they thought that it would be no problem, given the gear-down in the unit. The limiting factor in soft soil they said would be letting the drill get ahead of you and suddenly be too heavy to extract; or in hard soil the drill itself and/or downforce to get it through something. YMMV

 

[strantor]

• TSC CountryLine - $550+$180(12") + store pickup
  • https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-3-point-post-hole-digger-602377?cm_vc=-10005
• D&B Behlen Country- $600+$190(12") + store pickup
  • pictures don't speak to tube wall thickness or weld quality, but this one LOOKS weaker than the CountryLine - anyone seen them side by side?
  • Behlen Country 80113000YEL | D&B

Those two look exactly the same to me. They probably come off the same assembly line.

 

[GKChesterton]

I have the EA 6900 and have used on ck2610 with a 12 inch auger. No problem with it. No issues with it getting stuck but I do lower and lift a couple times when digging to clear the soil. My soil at my house is basically a light sprinkling of dirt over limestone. Prior to the auger I needed a rock bar to dig a hole deeper than 6 inches. After tearing up my shoulders putting in some posts, I got the auger. It really helps but once or twice I hit a large rock and it just wouldn’t dig deeper. I used it around my place for a couple years and never needed to replace the shear pin (30 holes or so). I took it to my hunting property in Oklahoma in the kiamichi mountains to plant trees. My property is very rocky with lots of slate rock. I have an older b7800 up there. Them Oklahoma rocks are tougher than Texas rocks. I went through three shear pins in a day digging about fifteen holes. But it dug the holes in very tough soil conditions. The b7800 did have a little more trouble lifting the auger out of the ground than the ck2610. As to the 18 inch auger question, I dug all of these holes with a 12 inch auger and never went above 1800 rpm on the tractors. Never needed to and never came close to bogging down the tractor. So there was quite a bit of power to spare.

 

[jyoutz]

Evidently, it wasn't that TSC's PHD was cheaply built.

Speed, RPMs, that's what I really don't like about the Tier 4 tractors. You are compelled to run them at a much higher RPM in order to keep the emission system from clogging. Not good when running such implements as a post hole digger or even in some cases operating a backhoe.

That’s not true. Yes, you need to run them periodically at maximum RPM, but not for every use.

 

[rScotty]

That’s not true. Yes, you need to run them periodically at maximum RPM, but not for every use.

""Oldoak said:
...SNIP...
Speed, RPMs, that's what I really don't like about the Tier 4 tractors. You are compelled to run them at a much higher RPM in order to keep the emission system from clogging. Not good when running such implements as a post hole digger or even in some cases operating a backhoe. ""

I've heard that before about Tier 4 tractors.... that they should be run at high RPM.

But is that really the case? Has anyone run their Tier 4 like a traditional diesel tractor, one that idles a lot and then revs up to meet a load.

Would it just regen more often? If so, why care?
What are users finding out?
rScotty

 

[bullbreaker]

Dont know how there welds , steel quality , guage etc was but King Kutter used to have a "pro line " side of there implements . Hardly seen in stores had to be ordered .

As we are aware most PHD come shipped empty and requires filling to correct measure .

Hey just a thought those struggling digging there holes even with water "tricks " and down pressure kits etc , have you all double checked to make sure you didnt get a PHD meant to be used for " south of the Equator " ?

King Kutter. Professional Products

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

So far... it has survived behind my M7040. I’ve probably lost half a dozen shear bolts and I haven’t dug at above idle.

It took some tightening up of all the movable points. Changed the “hoop to boom” pivot pin to a bolt with washers between all surfaces. Allowed me to tighten that up and take a lot of sway out of it. Cinched it down really tight, then backed off a quarter turn. Jam nutted the bolt to keep the tension I put it at. Seems to have helped a lot. I also put some washers on the top link connection to remove the side to side slop.

I am about 24 holes into an 80 hole project. If it survives, then I guess it did okay. Even it doesn’t survive, it was worth $10 a hole to not do it by hand. I definitely am ordering a post driver before I start on the other 500+ holes but this will get my fence up before the weekend.

We don't use shear bolts. Just get a live stock panel and cut it up with bolt cutters. Lots of shear pins in a panel. Hammer in and tap the ends over and back in business.

 

[Tinhack]

Those two look exactly the same to me. They probably come off the same assembly line.

Not even close. TSC uses a fully welded support "box" under the arm. The other is a flat piece only partially welded.