Counterweight to Avoid Rollover?

[Bill_in_MI]

I know there have been lots of discussions regarding tilt gauges, avoiding slopes, etc. Has anyone tried adding outboard weight to allow (one direction only) working parallel on a "modest" slope....maybe 25 degrees. It may be a dumb (as in not safe) thing to do, but I thought I would ask. I am thinking of something like a 25 gallon plastic barrell filled with water attached to the loader side frame on the uphill side. I wouldn't make a habit of this but I need to run a power rake along the slope a couple of passes to get the grade I want. I get really chicken on any side hill situations...something like this might make me feel better. Obviously, one would have to be careful at the end of the run.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

I know there have been lots of discussions regarding tilt gauges, avoiding slopes, etc. Has anyone tried adding outboard weight to allow (one direction only) working parallel on a "modest" slope....maybe 25 degrees. It may be a dumb (as in not safe) thing to do, but I thought I would ask. I am thinking of something like a 25 gallon plastic barrell filled with water attached to the loader side frame on the uphill side. I wouldn't make a habit of this but I need to run a power rake along the slope a couple of passes to get the grade I want. I get really chicken on any side hill situations...something like this might make me feel better. Obviously, one would have to be careful at the end of the run.

 

[_M_]

It's not going to work while you're power raking, but, when I have my backhoe on, I sometimes extend the boom to the uphill side while on a steep slope. I also go very slow.

 

[_M_]

It's not going to work while you're power raking, but, when I have my backhoe on, I sometimes extend the boom to the uphill side while on a steep slope. I also go very slow.

 

[daTeacha]

The guys who mow ditches around here use a 48" or larger rotary cutter mounted on the end of a hydraulic arm that lets them reach 6 or 8 feet to one side, up and down the banks eating anything up to 3 or 4 inches in diameter. They have several hundred gallons of water or sand mounted on a saddle tank rig on the off side and it works just fine. Keep it as low as you can just to be safer.

Water gives you 8 lb. per gallon. The farther out you can put it the better. 25 gallons is only about the same as a having your neighbor standing there -- would that make you feel better? I'd look into at least a 30 gallon steel barrel and fill it with rocks, then water between the rocks.

If you could get a 8 or 10' long 6x6 attached to the bottom of your bucket and carried low might help some. A near rollover would stress your loader frame though. You could maybe hang something like that under the middle of the tractor, too, depending on clearance needs. If you can securely attach it to the loader mounts, you could put weights on the uphill side in the form of concrete blocks. Use a 4x4 and you might be able to just slide the hole in the blocks over the wood. Alternately, place the blocks in front and behind the timber and tie them to each other like a saddle.

 

[daTeacha]

The guys who mow ditches around here use a 48" or larger rotary cutter mounted on the end of a hydraulic arm that lets them reach 6 or 8 feet to one side, up and down the banks eating anything up to 3 or 4 inches in diameter. They have several hundred gallons of water or sand mounted on a saddle tank rig on the off side and it works just fine. Keep it as low as you can just to be safer.

Water gives you 8 lb. per gallon. The farther out you can put it the better. 25 gallons is only about the same as a having your neighbor standing there -- would that make you feel better? I'd look into at least a 30 gallon steel barrel and fill it with rocks, then water between the rocks.

If you could get a 8 or 10' long 6x6 attached to the bottom of your bucket and carried low might help some. A near rollover would stress your loader frame though. You could maybe hang something like that under the middle of the tractor, too, depending on clearance needs. If you can securely attach it to the loader mounts, you could put weights on the uphill side in the form of concrete blocks. Use a 4x4 and you might be able to just slide the hole in the blocks over the wood. Alternately, place the blocks in front and behind the timber and tie them to each other like a saddle.

 

[1bush2hog]

What about loading F & R tires on the one side? I would be hesitant depending on the slope, especially if the rake has any opportunity to "grab" when pulling.

Can you not go up and down the slope instead of side to side?

 

[1bush2hog]

What about loading F & R tires on the one side? I would be hesitant depending on the slope, especially if the rake has any opportunity to "grab" when pulling.

Can you not go up and down the slope instead of side to side?

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Can't go up and down the slope because of a pond on the low side and drive on the upper side. The slope is only about 12 ft wide between these two obsticles.

 

[Bill_in_MI]

Can't go up and down the slope because of a pond on the low side and drive on the upper side. The slope is only about 12 ft wide between these two obsticles.