Countdown to 50 hours

[madpogue]

Machine: '07 790, R1 tires, no FEL, 35 hrs

I don't think we'll be putting more than 15 hrs on it this weekend, but we're inching toward the "first 50 hours" service. I have some questions about parts/supplies.

* Farm & Fleet has John Deere specific hyd/trans lube, that says it meets JD20-C specs. But the owner's manual calls for JD20-D. Will it still do, or should I be on the safe side and look for something else? This stuff is about $11 a two-gallon jug. How does the honest-to-goodness JD stuff compare?
* For engine oil, I got a gallon of Shell Rotella-T Synthetic 5w40 . I presume that's a good choice, righ?
* Any place I can get aftermarket engine and tranny oil filters, or should I stick with the green paint job?

TIA

 

[Jack Squat]

Yep actually going to do mine this weekend. I bought all JD from the local dealer and spent about 120. In a few posts that I have read here, some mentioned following the specific reccomendations during warranty period just in case .... I thought that seemed prudent, so went down that road. I will watch this post to see other options though, for the future.

Kind of embarrassed to admit and I am pretty sure my wifes eyes rolled when I told her - I have been thinking about this service so much - I dreamed about doing it

Is that sick?

 

[jbrumberg]

Kind of embarrassed to admit and I am pretty sure my wifes eyes rolled when I told her - I have been thinking about this service so much - I dreamed about doing it

Is that sick? [/QUOTE]

Jack:

Just a symptom of tractoritis ! Hopefully your wife will adjust to the progressive nature of the syndrome . Jay

 

[Runner]

I have a similar question. According to the manual, the tractor is shipped with the regular viscosity type hydro fluid. The manual also says not to mix the regular and the low-viscosity fluid. I would like to continue using the regular viscosity fluid, since that's what is recommended for the temperature range around here (Missouri) and because that's what came in the machine.

However, none of the dealers around here stock the regular viscosity fluid, they only have the low-viscosity. I asked about it and they said the stuff they had was fine, but I'm reluctant to use it. Seems to me that thicker is better on something like that, unless I actually see some kind of cold weather issues, and it doesn't really get that cold around here.

I would be interested in hearing others opinions on this and whether they have trouble finding the regular viscosity fluid at their dealers.

 

[Rob-D]

I used all synthetic when I did my 50 hour change. If you look back I wrote a lot about it here.
rob

 

[madpogue]

Runner, I did some poking around and found out that the low-vis J20D oil is good down to a lower temerature (I wanna say -30F) than the regular J20D (-5F, IIRC). But they're both still good up to the same max temperature (something like +110F?). So I think the low-vis only applies to lower temperatures; it doesn't sound like the low-vis is gonna be thinner at a given temperature, just able to handle lower temps. But I don't know anything about mixing them. For my purposes, I get to return the J20C to F&F.

What does seem to be the case is that ALL the conventional (dead dinos) aftermarket tranny oil is J20C. The only J20D I found aftermarket was synthetic, mostly (expectedly) AMSOil. And , $115 for five gallons is spendy. Besides, it's not readily available 'round here.

I'm gonna go ahead with the Rotella-T in the engine; 50 hours should be enough of a break-in. I'll have to hit the dealer for the filters, so I'll get the low-vis when I'm there.

Thanks for the info and insight everyone. Well, I'm not exactly dreaming about this service, I am looking forward to it. D'OH, I better remember an oil filter wrench. (I never have to use one on my Saturn; just manage to snatch it loose by hand.) No other special tools, right; just sockets and funnels?

 

[RalphVa]

When I did the 50 hour service, I did it in pieces a few days to a week or so apart: 1) engine oil change (5w30 Mobil 1); 2) 4wd front gear unit (85-140 oil from JD dealer); 3) hydraulic oil (low vis stuff from JD dealer here in Virginia, which gets as hot and longer than probably Mizzou). Doing it in pieces gives you a chance to recycle the oil to get the used oil container(s) empty for the next step.

Think someone reported here that the Shell Rotella "synthetic" is really hydrotreated oil and not oil made synthetically from PAO, like Mobil 1. I found this out after changing to Rotella 5w40 in my diesel Benz last year. Couldn't find any of the 5w40 Mobil 1 used 2 years ago; so, I have some 5w30 and 15w50 Mobil 1 to mix to get the prescribed (for the Benz) 10w40 for this next upcoming yearly oil change (at usually about 5k +/- miles). I change at 13 and then 100 (twice) on the tractor; so, it really wouldn't make much difference in my case. Using the xx30w would give you a tad more fuel economy vs. the 5w30 that the manual says is okay (for my 4010 anyway). If you can get it, 0w30 would be even better. Its viscosity at startup would still be higher than at operating temperature than probably even the xx40w.

Don't know where the hydro filter is on the 790. If it's behind the 3ph bar, you have to remove one rear wheel. This was very easy on the 4010: floor jack underneath one side of the drawbar, take off wheel, roll to side, remove 3ph bar & filter cap, cap back, bar back, wheel back on and torque.

Ralph

 

[Rob-D]

Ralph,
I'm not sure that mixing different viscosity oils makes a totally different viscosity. If I were you I would inquire with the producer to see if it is a correct application.

My local dealer doesn't stock some of the Mobil 1 oils I use but all I have to do is ask and he has it for me the next day. Merc. uses Mobil 1, 0W-40 in its new cars and my NAPA stocks it.

Also I don't believe Mobil 1 is specifically designed for diesel engines. Amsoil has a specific diesel oil which I use in my Deere. I think Mobil 1 mentions diesel engines on the can though.

My tractor is fully synthetic now. My thinking is that it cost a bundle and I'm going to do everything I can to keep it from failing. Really good hydro fluid is extremely important in gear boxes and hydro systems in fact more so then the engine oils. The last thing you want is a bearing failure in a box. I don't remember what the Amsoil cost me to fill my system but I consider it cheap insurance. I've seen tranny failures and fixed more then a few. I've also seen the long term wear of different oils on engines and synthetics are hands above conventional oils.

I've said this before here but I'll say it again, Merc., Porsche, Corvette, Aston Martin, etc. all come from the factory with synthetic oils specifically Mobil 1. It's just good stuff!

Rob

 

[madpogue]

Yup, I hear ya re. the synthetic. I just didn't have time to procure any Amsoil hyd/gear oil, so I hit the closest JD dealer for a bucket of low-vis. I'm thinking, since we don't even have an FEL yet, it's not quite as critical. I reckon if we start doing FEL work, even if it's before the next change interval, I'll switch to Amsoil.

And I've heard the same thing about mixing viscosities. Yes, you can do it, but it doesn't create an "average" viscosity mix.

So, I've got the oil filter wrench (and a general-purpose strap wrench, just in case), and a set of sockets, and a bigeffin' drain pan. The MFwd / PS machines have the tranny filter mounted pretty accessibly between the rear wheels; I don't forsee needing to remove the wheel. Last call before I leave town; any other tools I should need?

 

[Rob-D]

You may just need that strap wrench, as I recall the hydro filter was on pretty tight. Also make sure you have enough hydo fluid, mine took about 3-1/5 gal and not the book capacity.