Cool Running, How much damage?

[Tractorganic]

After 740 engine hours on my purchased new TC40D, I stumbled across and acted upon TBN posts in this forum revealing the problem of cold engine running. Winter or Summer my temp gauge has stayed below green no mater how hard I worked it. I thought at least it's not overheating but something might be wrong with the gauge. So now after reading the posts I've installed a shut of valve (Briggs and Straton fuel line valve $7) in the lower by-pass hose and she warms thru the green nicely. I also installed a block heater and new coolant mix.
Question: How much damage and what type from running cold all these hours? No need to be gentle, I'm really not happy that neither NH nor the dealer I've given $7k repair and maintenance work to bothered to warn me!

 

[DocHeb]

After 740 engine hours on my purchased new TC40D, I stumbled across and acted upon TBN posts in this forum revealing the problem of cold engine running. Winter or Summer my temp gauge has stayed below green no mater how hard I worked it. I thought at least it's not overheating but something might be wrong with the gauge. So now after reading the posts I've installed a shut of valve (Briggs and Straton fuel line valve $7) in the lower by-pass hose and she warms thru the green nicely. I also installed a block heater and new coolant mix.
Question: How much damage and what type from running cold all these hours? No need to be gentle, I'm really not happy that neither NH nor the dealer I've given $7k repair and maintenance work to bothered to warn me!

IMHO, no damage.

 

[jinman]

You probably changed the engine life from 12,500 hours to 12,000 hours. . .

Of course, it would depend on how hard you worked your tractor, but I'm essentially agreeing with Chris. The tractor is intended to operate around 180 degrees, but every tractor runs some when it is cool until it can warm up.

 

[20 20]

I'll give you my address, the tractor is no longer any good. If you want I'll come pick it up for scrap {haha}. You'll need to go buy new and start over again.

I wouldn't lose sleep over it

 

[art]

It would have been nice to have actually checked the temp and not by the gauge that they supplied. I have not hit one of thse to see what they do run at for temperature but to run one cold can virtually kill an engine in less hours that you have on yours.

To tell if it hurt it,does it use oil? Lower on power then when new? If it doesn't then you haven't washed the rings out which is what you will do. It's called cylinder glazing.

 

[Tractorganic]

Thanks everyone, I feel a little better.
Art, No increase in oil use (doesn't ever need topping up between changes) and no decrease in power that I can tell from new though I'm always wanting more. Thanks for warning about the dreaded cylinder glaze. I guess I'll include some sort of pressure test in future maintenance.
As far as trading in or giving away, she's like a boat to me now. With all I've put in time and $ I'd either have to hit the lottery or find her sunk to give her up, but I actually did give up my boats before becoming a tractor maniac.

 

[jinman]

Even with your hose bypassing, the lower part of the green on your temperature gage is about 160, with the high side being 210. I'd bet that your tractor has been running around 140 to 150 and that's not like running completely cold all the time as you would with no thermostat at all. I think you'll be fine.

 

[JC-jetro]

After 740 engine hours on my purchased new TC40D, I stumbled across and acted upon TBN posts in this forum revealing the problem of cold engine running. Winter or Summer my temp gauge has stayed below green no mater how hard I worked it. I!

I think your gage might not well calibrated, that does not mean there is anything wrong with it. if I were overly concerned, then would do the following;
1-remove the sender unit,
2- Rig up a propane burner, a pot of cold water and start heating the water adjacent to the tractor.
3-I'd stick a reliable thermometer in the water and start observing. Candy making thermometers are quite accurate and they go to more than water's boiling point.
4- I'd keep the tractor temp sens leads on the sending device and by help of an assistant partially submerge the sending device in to hot water.
5- I keep the ignition switch on to activate the circuit. Obviously, you do not want to start the tractor.

Then I compare and contrast to see what your gage is telling, if water is around 180 and you are way below then I say your gage need calibration. I put a witness mark on the glass for 180 and then continue to raise the temp in the pot to 212 (boiling point at the sea level) to see where my gage goes. I put witness mark in there for red. I might decide then to either live with it knowing what's going on or change the temp gage. There is slight outside chance that the sending unit might be faulty as well.


JC,

I do all that only if , I'm in a good mood and have couple of hrs to kill

 

[RickB]

I think your gage might not well calibrated, that does not mean there is anything wrong with it. if I were overly concerned, then would do the following;
1-remove the sender unit,
2- Rig up a propane burner, a pot of cold water and start heating the water adjacent to the tractor.
3-I'd stick a reliable thermometer in the water and start observing. Candy making thermometers are quite accurate and they go to more than water's boiling point.
4- I'd keep the tractor temp sens leads on the sending device and by help of an assistant partially submerge the sending device in to hot water.
5- I keep the ignition switch on to activate the circuit. Obviously, you do not want to start the tractor.

Then I compare and contrast to see what your gage is telling, if water is around 180 and you are way below then I say your gage need calibration. I put a witness mark on the glass for 180 and then continue to raise the temp in the pot to 212 (boiling point at the sea level) to see where my gage goes. I put witness mark in there for red. I might decide then to either live with it knowing what's going on or change the temp gage. There is slight outside chance that the sending unit might be faulty as well.


JC,

I do all that only if , I'm in a good mood and have couple of hrs to kill

You would also have to run a separate ground wire from the sender body to the tractor chassis if this test were to provide meaningful results. Or the OP could just use and enjoy his tractor as he intended to when he purchased it.

 

[JC-jetro]

You would also have to run a separate ground wire from the sender body to the tractor chassis if this test were to provide meaningful results. Or the OP could just use and enjoy his tractor as he intended to when he purchased it.

Rick,

You're right as usual. Missed a step by not suggesting to provide a ground !!, just a minor issue you know I actually done the same calibration procedure for on a few thermocouples I used, only the thermocouple had two leads and was not chassis grounded.

JC,


PS. By the way , another suggestion for the OP, you might want to use a non contact infra red thermometer to check engine temps at the radiator , block and head for some useful information