Converting 7000# car hauler to 10000#?

[Lasgambler]

I have a PJ 7000# 18 ft. car hauler. Brakes on 1 axel. The problem is my tractor as it sits is just over 7000#, now you see the problem when I deduct the weight of the trailer the tractor puts me about 2000# overweight.

The PJ is well built and I am capable of fabrication and welding if needed. I found a seller on ebay with 5000# or so (don't remember exactly) axels that were very reasonable. Has anyone made this change to there trailer? Thanks Terry

 

[JB4310]

Don't think you'll ever get it certified, besides the new axles which are probably 5200LB rated, of course you would have to upgrade the springs and hardware but also the frame would have to be reinforced from tongue to stern.

I kinda just went thru the same situation with an equipment trailer, mine is rated at 4 ton from the manufacturer, but no one makes a 4000 lb axle, only 3500 and 5200, so the axle manufacturer sends them 5200 lb axles. I wanted to upgrade the springs and tires to the 10,000 lb rating, but the frame would not support the upgrades, it's still a 4 ton frame. At least I know if I overload, the axle is not the weakest link, the tires are now the weakest link, so if I ever need new tires I will go for the higher rated ones.

Your probably better off selling your trailer and getting a 5 ton.

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Anything is possible. The common axles in this class are 3,500# 5,200# and 6,000#. So you would need two 5,200# axles, springs, spring hangers, new brakes(different size), 5 new wheels(6 lug vs 5 lug on the 3,500 you have), and 5 new tires.

Then you would need to upgrade the frame, coupler, safety chains, ect.

As you can see this is not cost effective. I am guessing $750 for the axles with brakes, $250 for the springs, $1000 for the wheels and tires, $100 for the coupler, $50 for good safety chains, and the list goes on. Just sell your trialer on Craigs List or Ebay and get a new one. Depending on where you live $2500 will buy you a brand new 10K or 12K trailer.

Chris

 

[schmism]

depends on the frame.

Many trailer manufactures will build the same frame and simply slap small 3500lb axles under it to make it cheeper.

You mention a car hauler, but for instance if its a relatively lightweight "landscape trailer" with angle iron frame (instead of 5" C channel) the idea that you can beef it up to take the additional weight isnt very realistic.

im my state to title a home built trailer is no major ordeal.

 

[Highbeam]

I own the PJ 10k rated trailer that you should have bought. The 7000 model is much lighter in construction which is why I went for the 10k for my 4500 lb tractor. The frame for the 10k model is made of 6" tall channel all around and double stacked in front of the axles. The hitch coupler is 2-5/16 and rated for more than 10k, you'd need a new hitch too.

I love the PJ trailer and I think you picked the right brand but the conversion is not likely a wise economic decision if it is even possible.

 

[Lasgambler]

Anything is possible. The common axles in this class are 3,500# 5,200# and 6,000#. So you would need two 5,200# axles, springs, spring hangers, new brakes(different size), 5 new wheels(6 lug vs 5 lug on the 3,500 you have), and 5 new tires.

Then you would need to upgrade the frame, coupler, safety chains, ect.

As you can see this is not cost effective. I am guessing $750 for the axles with brakes, $250 for the springs, $1000 for the wheels and tires, $100 for the coupler, $50 for good safety chains, and the list goes on. Just sell your trialer on Craigs List or Ebay and get a new one. Depending on where you live $2500 will buy you a brand new 10K or 12K trailer.

Chris

I had considered new wheels and tires. I forgot about the coupler. The axles on ebay are about $280. each and they come with springs. Here is the reason I was considering doing this. I gave $2300 here for my 7000# PJ and a 10400# 18 ft dovetail cost about $3600. I considered driving to Texas to buy the 7000#. We really get ripped here on trailer prices. Maybe it has to do with snowbirds haulin there toys and having money to spend as opposed to someone trying to make a living. Terry

 

[Dallas_Lilly]

I had considered new wheels and tires. I forgot about the coupler. The axles on ebay are about $280. each and they come with springs. Here is the reason I was considering doing this. I gave $2300 here for my 7000# PJ and a 10400# 18 ft dovetail cost about $3600. I considered driving to Texas to buy the 7000#. We really get ripped here on trailer prices. Maybe it has to do with snowbirds haulin there toys and having money to spend as opposed to someone trying to make a living. Terry

I paid $2,050 two years ago for my PJ 18' 7,000 car hauler trailer in phoenix. That was before tax and license. I thought it was an exceptional value considering it was around $1,900 for the same trailer built out of angle iron. The PJ was one of the only trailers I found locally that had recessed lights, all of them and had Chanel frame and cross members. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples before you drive all the way to texas for a trailer. I take it you are in or around Kingman?

 

[Lasgambler]

Hey Dallas, I am comparing apples to apples. I looked at Carson and AZ Trailer they don't compare to the PJ. For some reason I was thinking PJ was made in TX. I'm about 40 miles outside of Kingman in the middle of nowhere.
Terry

 

[George2615]

I agree with JB. Trailer mfg. design their trailers to meet a certain spec. That spec. is then certified with a weight rating not to exceed the GVWR number on the tag. It doesn't matter if you upgrade the axles, the rest of the trailer may not meet the specs of a 10K rated unit. Unless you are a licensed structural engineer who can certify your work I doubt you can get your State to increase your trailers weight rating beyond the mfg. spec. Replacing axles with higher rated units does not increase the structural strength of the trailer frame beyond what the mfg. intended.

Some states will let construct your own trailer but they will have to inspect the trailer and make a determination whether they will allow the weight rating you desire. Usually a home constructed trailer is registered as a homemade or custom trailer. This way of registering is to prevent future litigation against a commercial mfg. of a trailer you modified should you be involved in an accident. These issues depend on your state whether they will allow you to modify a commercial built trailer and register it as homemade.

My opinion is to sell that trailer and buy the correct size you need.

I looked at a PJ gooseneck trailer at auction a few years ago and saw a Made in Mexico tag on it. I don't know if they are all made there.

As an FYI I live in NY and built a homemade trailer several years ago with two 6K mobile home axles axles. Had to apply to State, fill out tons of paperwork, send them copies of all materials lists showing I paid sales tax on every item then forward it back with a filing fee, wait for DMV to schedule an appointment for me to take trailer to DMV field office for them to inspect, the inspector informed me I had to replace the tires since MH tires are not DOT approved for use with that type of trailer and only for transport of MH's. After purchasing new tires and rescheduling with the DMV I then received a successful inspection they issued a VIN# which they attached to the trailer. It took me less time to build the trailer than to register it.

 

[Lasgambler]

Quite possible "Made in Mexico". Internet search says PJ Gooseneck and Bumper Pulls made in Paris, Texas. Terry