Conversion of toplink

[ovrszd]

At the prices I'm seeing, I could buy four or five top links to leave with the implements and still be ahead. I can see the hydraulic versions being useful for situations where you have to raise, lower or adjust on the fly, but I don't do that.

Definitely depends on use. Your use must be minimal and comsistent.

 

[ovrszd]

For me - it is not mandatory that I have a hydraulic top link. It's a matter of convenience - plain and simple. The hydraulic top link makes any and all uses of a top link much easier & quicker. Attachment & implement adjustment are easier and quicker. And I can make infinite adjustment to any implement on-the-fly. I do not have to be satisfied with - "it looks pretty good". I can tweak until it's exactly the way I want it. For that convenience, I gladly pay the price.

Besides - its a legitimate use for the rear remote that came with the tractor.

And with a rear blade in the angled position you can gain tilt on the go by changing the top length.

 

[ericm979]

I can see the hydraulic versions being useful for situations where you have to raise, lower or adjust on the fly, but I don't do that.

I didn't either until I got a hydraulic top link. It's especially useful with a rear blade. I would not be without it now.

 

[LouNY]

I have hydraulic top links and use and enjoy them for many uses.
I also have and use a light chain instead for when I want an implement to float,
such as running a brushhog in a clean pasture were the tail wheel is on the ground and setting the height.
I have used it on the back blade at times when using it backward to just polish and slick up a surface.
I don't have or use a flail mower but I would expect a chain would work well on one.

 

[ovrszd]

I have hydraulic top links and use and enjoy them for many uses.
I also have and use a light chain instead for when I want an implement to float,
such as running a brushhog in a clean pasture were the tail wheel is on the ground and setting the height.
I have used it on the back blade at times when using it backward to just polish and slick up a surface.
I don't have or use a flail mower but I would expect a chain would work well on one.

On my old Ford 917 Flail you fine tune the cut height by changing the top link. I use a manual adjustable top link with it so I don't have to worry about hydraulic creep.

 

[Fallon]

On my old Ford 917 Flail you fine tune the cut height by changing the top link. I use a manual adjustable top link with it so I don't have to worry about hydraulic creep.

On my flails I always leave the toplink in float. You set cut height with the 3pt. The mower just pivots or rocks on the 3pt & the rear roller. I only un-float the toplink for transport or to hang it over a ditch or something.

FitRite is slow & not cheap, but worth it. My first set ran off with the old tractor. The 3 failures from my dealer for the new machine didnt fit anywhere close to right & leaked everywhere. Waited for a FitRite set again & it fit perfectly. Well with the wait. One cylinder ended up with a pinhole in it after a year or so. He had a warranty replacement shipped out within a few days.

Personally I don't plan on anything but FitRite in the future if I ever need another TnT set.

 

[PILOON]

You have a hydraulic cylinder, both sides full with hydraulic oil. Both ports are then connected to each other with a valve in the middle. If the valve is closed, the cylinder is locked. If the valve is open, the cylinder will either extend or retract depending on what you need. Then you close the valve to lock the cylinder and your top link is adjusted where you need it to be.

Hey, cool!
I have the cylinder to do the job but missing the valve so I'll just add a quality ball valve between the ports.
Should be much easier than turning the darn barrel screw every time as well as being cleaner.

(have more ruined clothing caused by leaning over or reaching under that tractor)

 

[ptsg]

Hey, cool!
I have the cylinder to do the job but missing the valve so I'll just add a quality ball valve between the ports.
Should be much easier than turning the darn barrel screw every time as well as being cleaner.

(have more ruined clothing caused by leaning over or reaching under that tractor)

That cylinder is designed slightly different that a conventional cylinder. On a conventional cylinder, one side of the piston has a different volume than the rod side.

On the Hydraulink, I think they build like a steering cylinder, where the rod come out of both sides of the piston, therefore the volume will be the same on both sides.

Or since the entire top link is longer than the actual cylinder, they might use the threaded side as reservoir. For this Hydraulink to work, there must be no air inside the cylinder.

 

[sfabern]

Does your tractor have rear remote hydraulics?

No, I don't have any remote rear hydraulics. Only the standard three point hitch side link hydraulics.

Thanks to all who replied.

 

[cjoffutt]

Agristore is also free shipping with more than $100 order.

Was unaware of this. Would be beneficial to order from Agristore then IMO. The likelihood of needing to return it would be minimal.