Control valve for hydraulic top link.

[Reg]

Yet a_NOTHER HTL topic.
OK, maybe a Duhh question;
Why not a float on HTL control valve ?
It seems enough people have the fine positioning problem when trying to take pressure off the top link so the pin will come out and there are probably enough attachments for which a slack (or disconnected) top link would be nice to allow ground following - say, disk harrow ?

OK, co$t. Perhaps another $20 or 30 above a regular spring to center double acting ?

 

[3RRL]

There are several guys who have done just that and like it.
Only drawback is you can't use a DPOCV on the cylinder then. But some of those guys say they don't need it anyway.

 

[Reg]

I appreciate the input, but...
Right now I don't see the utility of the DPOCV being on the cylinder, for ME.
I think there are control valves with pilot operated check valves built in (& float) that would take care of position drift. As I understand it the safety issue is that a blown hose COULD result in a sudden drop of the implement. OK, so it is ground engaged anyway and when not so engaged the lift arms support it, so it might swing back or forwards a bit - Hmmm, that doesn't sound like the end of the world.
I think the advantages of float would probably outweigh the theoretically possible collapse of the top-link cylinder due to a blown hose - for me, for my applications.

 

[3RRL]

Yeah, I agree and I've seen those kind of valves. I'm wondering how the float valve could have the DPOCV in it and still float though? Maybe the float valve doesn't have them in it but the rest of the stack does? Anyway, the point I was making was in regard to your question about ...why not. That is, there are guys who already do that, so there's no reason not to do it.
I'd like to have the float option for my top link too, but I can't with the valve I have and the CCM top link with DPOCV. In my case, I'm not that worried about a blow out either. I wanted to maintain position without drift. But like I said, some of these guys who already have float don't have any or negligible drift anyway.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

But like I said, some of these guys who already have float don't have any or negligible drift anyway.

Yep, that's me. One happy camper with my 4 position detent valves.

 

[HayDR]

Yeah, I agree and I've seen those kind of valves. I'm wondering how the float valve could have the DPOCV in it and still float though? Maybe the float valve doesn't have them in it but the rest of the stack does? Anyway, the point I was making was in regard to your question about ...why not. That is, there are guys who already do that, so there's no reason not to do it.
I'd like to have the float option for my top link too, but I can't with the valve I have and the CCM top link with DPOCV. In my case, I'm not that worried about a blow out either. I wanted to maintain position without drift. But like I said, some of these guys who already have float don't have any or negligible drift anyway.

A float option on your toplink means your setting will continually change. You can not run any ground engaging equipment and if you ran a bush hog style cutter with float on the toplink you will not have a consistent height of cut. A complete rear 3 point hitch with float is totally different than float on a toplink. All the points of the 3 point hitch must remain constant or your implement setting will continually change.

Sooner or later you'll wish you have a DPOCV.

 

[3RRL]

Yup, that's why I ordered my top link from you Mark. The only thing I would want to float with the top link is my rotary cutter. Anyway, my rotary cutter has a long slot in it for that kind of float, but I wish it allowed a little more movement.

For my other implements I use the 3pt with the DPOCV on the top link cylinder when I want to float say my box blade. Your CCM DPOCV has worked great so far and keeps my ground engaging implements rock steady. And the ones I bought for my backhoe stabilizer legs have not budged at all. It's been sitting on them for 3 months now and has not leaked down an inch!
Thanks.

 

[dfkrug]

The only thing I would want to float with the top link is my rotary cutter. Anyway, my rotary cutter has a long slot in it for that kind of float, but I wish it allowed a little more movement.

For my other implements I use the 3pt with the DPOCV on the top link cylinder when I want to float say my box blade. Your CCM DPOCV has worked great so far and keeps my ground engaging implements rock steady. And the ones I bought for my backhoe stabilizer legs have not budged at all. It's been sitting on them for 3 months now and has not leaked down an inch!
Thanks.

The outrigger cyls is an interesting application for the piloted check valve.
Were your outriggers rising while you dug, or is it just to keep the tractor
"planted" while not in use? Or just the hoe when dismounted?

I see value in a toplink float for rotary-cutting, too. This could supplant
the "poor man's toplink float", aka a chain for this application.

 

[Ductape]

Thats a great idea ! My backhoe is always sitting on the floor of my barn by the next time i go to use it. Not a huge deal, as i can hook up the hoses and raise it up........ but it sure would be better if it didn't sink down to the floor in the first place.

 

[3RRL]

The outrigger cyls is an interesting application for the piloted check valve.
Were your outriggers rising while you dug, or is it just to keep the tractor
"planted" while not in use? Or just the hoe when dismounted?

I see value in a toplink float for rotary-cutting, too. This could supplant
the "poor man's toplink float", aka a chain for this application.

Hi Dave,
I'm sorry to deviate from the topic, but as usual, you nailed it.

The stabilizers would leak down (via the valve) while operating. This became so annoying to me that I had to fix that. I found myself hitting the stabilizer lever every 30 seconds or so. And after a while, just out of habit! so the tractor was not planted properly.
The second reason was for storage. I've always had to prop up my backhoe so it wouldn't be completely out of position when I came back to hook it up.

Also, propping it up like that made it difficult to get off in the first place, since there was some friction from being propped up a little. Now, once I set the legs, they stay and I can disconnect and reconnect very easily. You know my surfaces are just dirt and very uneven at my camp, so I can even store it by having the legs set to be level to the tractor. I have not had it on for over 3 months and it has not sagged a fraction of an inch. I can stand on the subframe part of the hoe and it doesn't budge.

A lot of trouble for a minor improvement, but my self satisfaction is HUGE for these two improvements. Here is the thread on it.
Adding Backhoe Feet and Leg Stabilizers