Backhoe Control Valve Assembly leak on backhoe

JoelD · Apr 12, 2014

HI guys,
I've got the KB2376, first use of the spring and she sprung a leak. I've attached pictures, the leak is coming straight up from the control pin on the left side of the pictures. Must be some shaft seals down in there. Ill pull top plate off today and see what I find.
Any advice? Does anyone know the size of the seals down in there? I've got the parts book and I see the "joystick seal Kit", hoping to fix up this weekend if possible, if not I'll just order the seal kits. any recommendations on online parts sources? I have been using Wallace, do you know if he sells the parts still?
Thanks all,
great sunny day here,
Joel

VictorW · Apr 12, 2014

I had my valves apart on my KB2375 because of a bad valve block casting right from new. Yours look the same as mine and I'm surprised you have a leak when everything is so clean. Normally dirt and rust pitting on the exposed area of the spool (control pin) wears/scores the o-ring. If you take off the top plate, you'll find a nylon back-up washer first and then the rubber o-ring. I didn't measure my o-rings and because it's a 2005 model, yours might be different than mine anyways. Wallace may still have what you need even though he doesn't sell Kiotis anymore. I haven't seen any aftermarket places for parts. Here's one on-line place to start. They're in Michigan. Michigan Iron and Equipment, Kioti Tractors, Kioti Implements, Kodiak Attachments, Befco, Hound Dog Attachments, Dk Series Tractors, Central Michigan If you do a search, you find some others.

JoelD · Apr 12, 2014

Thank you vic,
will pull it apart tomorrow am.
Maybe I can find an o-ring locally if that is all it ends up being.
I think maybe a bit of moisture may have gotten in there and frozen? Can't think of why else. I store either in shed or under tarp.
Again, thank you,
Joel

JoelD · Apr 13, 2014

Ok, I've got the valve body out of the machine, punching out the pin to get the assembly apart was fun. Any advice on how to pull apart the valve to get to the o-ring? Not sure how it all comes apart? My manual and parts book is of little help.
Thanks,
Joel

JoelD · Apr 13, 2014

I pulled off the collar and found the "o-ring", it is white, not really an o-ring, more like the gasket you find in a garden hose, round and flat. Part number bc01-1000-p i will try to get the o-ring under the guide also 1000-0000.
I will do the other valve next to it also as it is likely to go bad shortly.
Wonder if I can find an equivalent local so I can knock it out today?
Will check with wallace and michigan in the interim.
Thanks,
Joel

VictorW · Apr 13, 2014

Your valve block looks a little different than mine which was a Simco brand. Kioti had used three different brands in the earlier models and maybe switched to another when they went to the 2475 from the 2375. Do you have the silver aluminum cup on the bottom of the valve? About an inch round, 1 1/2 inch long held on with two allen head bolts. If so, this contains the centering spring attached to the bottom of the spool. Remove the aluminum cup and the entire spool will drop out the bottom of the block giving you easy access to the o-rings. you'll also find an o-ring and back-up washer in the bottom of the valve block. Hope this helps a little.

JoelD · Apr 13, 2014

The end block is stamped Nimco. Yes, I have the cups on the bottom. I'll pull the entire spool out as you've indicated and replace all o-rings and seals while I'm in there.
I've pulled the entire valve block out of the tractor, so I mind as well go through the two spools while I'm at it.
Every bit of information helps, thank you for the post.
The hardest part was getting the joystick linkage off the spools, that was not fun.
Joel

JoelD · Apr 14, 2014

ordered parts this am, were in stock which is great, with luck will be back together this weekend.
Thanks,
Joel

VictorW · Apr 14, 2014

Putting the joystick controls back on the spools is just as much fun as removing. It's one of those start this piece in a little, then start the other, move first piece some more, then the other piece a little until all back in place. You can rotate the spools without hurting anything and this helps. They are just a rod with various grooves around the diameter. The centering springs are attached to the bottom of the spools, so nothing will come flying off at you. Having the valve block out will make things much easier. After you install the new seals, coat them and the spool a little with hydro fluid so they slide in easier. The spool diameter and the valve block bore is a very close tolerance fit so there's no "wiggle room". They go in straight or not at all. And your right, it's Nimco, not Simco as I typed.

JoelD · Apr 19, 2014

Got her back together and no more leak, got parts at Michigan Iron, they were great and delivered quickly.
I ended up dropping the spool, and replacing the top seal and the second seal in from top.
Getting the joysticks back in were much easier than getting out. I found that rotating the support shaft a bit made all the difference in the world. No need to drive out any of the set pins or the like. I made the mistake of driving out the set pin on one of that ball joints. No need to go through that grief as I reassembled with the ball joints all assembled. Rotating the support shaft gives you that slack you need to pull appart and put together.
Glad this is done. Next will be front driveshaft leak at the front pumkin entry point.
Joel