Considering Kubota

   / Considering Kubota #11  
How much did the air ride seat cost if you don't mind me asking. The air ride isn't too bouncy? The only air ride seat I've driven on was in an old Lindale 8000 that would bounce you against the roof sometimes.

I don't know what it costs as an OEM option, we just bought the base and will use the original suspension seat. The base cost right at $500, we got several other items with it, so I don't remember the exact cost.
 
   / Considering Kubota #12  
I've got a 9540 4WD. Kubotas are lighter. I have the rears on mine filled with no complaints. With a front end loader, it is a must. I don't hay but I pull a 15' Woods BW over lots of hilly ground. When bushogging, I remove front end loader and add about 700 lbs of suitcase weights to the frontend. I've been impressed with the way it holds the ground going up and down hills. The cutter weighs about 4000 lbs. but I wouldn't use it where I do without 4WD. On flatland, it would be fine.

The air ride is nice. I ordered it when I bought but I negotiated the tractor price with air ride included. Don't remember how much it was standalone. I want to say it was $400 extra, maybe more??
 
   / Considering Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#13  
I've got a 9540 4WD. Kubotas are lighter. I have the rears on mine filled with no complaints. With a front end loader, it is a must. I don't hay but I pull a 15' Woods BW over lots of hilly ground. When bushogging, I remove front end loader and add about 700 lbs of suitcase weights to the frontend. I've been impressed with the way it holds the ground going up and down hills. The cutter weighs about 4000 lbs. but I wouldn't use it where I do without 4WD. On flatland, it would be fine.

The air ride is nice. I ordered it when I bought but I negotiated the tractor price with air ride included. Don't remember how much it was standalone. I want to say it was $400 extra, maybe more??

Thanks. If you don't mind me asking, why the 9540 to pull a 15' mower? I believe a lower HP would handle the mower. Is it a weight issue and you wanted to step up a couple of sizes?

Just trying to figure out what size I should be looking at.
 
   / Considering Kubota #14  
General Rule for a rotary cutter is 5 PTO Hp / Ft so 75 Hp is what they consider a minimum. I know you hear of people with smaller tractors going to the low side of the 5hp / ft and then they end up cutting with only two thirds of the cutter or mowing at 2 mph my 7 ft BH27 with 75 pto hp @ 11 HP/Ft is fine for light brush and tall grass but hit a couple of 2"-3" saplings at the same time and she puts an awe full lot of strain the other motor. Which explains why it has a 150 HP gear box. I realize a 15 ft realistically is used for open pastures or road side mowing different than my 7 foot
 
   / Considering Kubota #15  
Thanks. If you don't mind me asking, why the 9540 to pull a 15' mower? I believe a lower HP would handle the mower. Is it a weight issue and you wanted to step up a couple of sizes?

Just trying to figure out what size I should be looking at.

I could probably be fine with a smaller hp and the batwing, but I wanted to have plenty of power. Xring100 is right on. For most of the cutting I do, the 9540 hardly knows it is behind it. However, I've have cut some buckgrass as tall as my windsheild wiper on the cab and the engine slowly started coming down to point I had to clutch and stop or it would have killed it and that was in 2 low on an 8x8. The 9540 can be choked down, just depends on what you are cutting. Weight is also a factor for hills I have. I didn't want to be pushed around and I've been pleased with that aspect, rears loaded and weights on the front.

One dealer I spoke to recommended that if you ever hay and pull a larger round baler, you don't want much less than a 85 hp at the PTO. Again, that probably depends on factors such as speed and thickness and size of the baler. Salem-20120922-00037.jpg
 
   / Considering Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#16  
I could probably be fine with a smaller hp and the batwing, but I wanted to have plenty of power. Xring100 is right on. For most of the cutting I do, the 9540 hardly knows it is behind it. However, I've have cut some buckgrass as tall as my windsheild wiper on the cab and the engine slowly started coming down to point I had to clutch and stop or it would have killed it and that was in 2 low on an 8x8. The 9540 can be choked down, just depends on what you are cutting. Weight is also a factor for hills I have. I didn't want to be pushed around and I've been pleased with that aspect, rears loaded and weights on the front.

One dealer I spoke to recommended that if you ever hay and pull a larger round baler, you don't want much less than a 85 hp at the PTO. Again, that probably depends on factors such as speed and thickness and size of the baler. View attachment 378571

Thanks for the feed back. I'll agree 85 pto hp is a nice target, but I generally don't put much stock in what dealers have to say. All the Kubota dealers I've talked to have told me how much I need a 4 wheel drive. When I ask why, they get a dumb look on their face and then start listing off what they can think of. When I say, I don't do/need that to each of their reasons, they don't seem too sure what to say. One admitted I didn't need one but said he doesn't stock them because the 2wd models don't sell. Don't blame him for that at all, just don't tell me I need something I don't because of your inventory. Real world stories from other owners is what I'm looking for so hearing how yours works is what I am looking for.

The 9540 has an EGR, right? Any troubles with that? What are the oil change intervals with an EGR? How is the fuel economy?
 
   / Considering Kubota #17  
Thanks for the feed back. I'll agree 85 pto hp is a nice target, but I generally don't put much stock in what dealers have to say. All the Kubota dealers I've talked to have told me how much I need a 4 wheel drive. When I ask why, they get a dumb look on their face and then start listing off what they can think of. When I say, I don't do/need that to each of their reasons, they don't seem too sure what to say. One admitted I didn't need one but said he doesn't stock them because the 2wd models don't sell. Don't blame him for that at all, just don't tell me I need something I don't because of your inventory. Real world stories from other owners is what I'm looking for so hearing how yours works is what I am looking for.

The 9540 has an EGR, right? Any troubles with that? What are the oil change intervals with an EGR? How is the fuel economy?

I can definitely do quite a bit in 2wd no problem but for me being on clay and playing around logging in wet/ swampy area 4wd is a must about 10- 20% of the time. And if your just going to be moving 2000 lb bales you'll be fine but if you're planning to move much more with 2wd plan on loading the tires. And lots of rear counter weight. The 1300 lb box scrapper definitely drastically improves the 2wd traction with a heavy loads on the loader.

As far as egr some do and some dont mine was the last model year and it was equipped with it. Earlier models don't. Ive had no issues but I only have 400 hours. Oil change for engine with low sulfur diesel is 300 hours. Trans fluid 600 hours. Trans Filters 300 hours.
Most of my work is doing fire wood or loader work I usually average about 0.5 gph. 0.75 - 1.0 gph brush hogging with 7 footer mostly light vegetation. 0.5 - 0.75 with the log splitter running 2100 rpm.
Only pulled a moldboard plow for a couple hours so I cant really tell you.
Thats on a M8540 id guess the 9540 isnt far off except under full load.

Fluids and filters are all easy to change. The Trans fluid is fun with a 17 gallon capacity the first 5 gallons empties in about 30 seconds. Zirc fittings are easy to get to. The single biggest improvement to the m9960 is the shifter linkage and integrated park brake lever. The M9540 series uses a a cable on the one linkage and seems a little bulky but I live with no real complaints but the M60 functions more like a Colt 1911 match trigger versus the M40 which is more like a Glock both work fine. Adding rear remotes is pretty easy. Rear 3 point stabilizers are okay but the little J-clips are a pain in the rear especially in the cold. I bought a quick hitch and am working on updating my attachments for compatability. All remaining are clevis style so I won't have to adjust the stabilizers again
 
   / Considering Kubota #18  
If it's a Kubota and it has a loader on it, it needs to have 4wd. They are not like other tractors or any you've owned in the past. Kubotas are light to begin with and very light in the rear. If you just wanted a tractor for mowing/raking/baling and not loader work 2wd would be fine, but you really won't get much done with a loader on a 2wd Kubota. We have a M9540 and use it in 4wd a lot when the loader is on. As for power, it pulls our 446 Deere round baler very well, and works ok on the 15' batwing. IMO it's a little undersized for a batwing, 85hp is marginal on power and it's a little too light (batwing pushes it around on hills). Then again, I'm used to running a batwing behind a 150hp row-crop tractor, so my view might be skewed.

If you want a good 2wd loader tractor I'd look for a 6000 series Deere. They will have plenty of weight to get good use out of a loader with 2wd.
 
   / Considering Kubota
  • Thread Starter
#19  
If it's a Kubota and it has a loader on it, it needs to have 4wd. They are not like other tractors or any you've owned in the past. Kubotas are light to begin with and very light in the rear. If you just wanted a tractor for mowing/raking/baling and not loader work 2wd would be fine, but you really won't get much done with a loader on a 2wd Kubota.

Thanks. This is kind of what I was afraid of. 90% of my loader work will be moving bales, so it should be easy enough to just throw a bale on the back for counter balance. It's that other 10% I'm worried about.


If you want a good 2wd loader tractor I'd look for a 6000 series Deere. They will have plenty of weight to get good use out of a loader with 2wd.

I've actually looked at a couple of those. For comparable condition to what I can find Kubota, the green paint seems to add about $8,000.
 
   / Considering Kubota #20  
I've actually looked at a couple of those. For comparable condition to what I can find Kubota, the green paint seems to add about $8,000.

True, but a 6000 series Deere is also way more tractor than an M9540, it's more in line with the Kubota M110-135X series.
 
 
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