Concrete floor in pole barn

[Mac25]

I have just built a new pole barn and I am trying to gather some info about having the concrete poured. First off, the bottom skirt board is sitting 1-2" above grade right now and I plan to excavate around 10" to allow for a good gravel fill of 5" and about 5" of concrete. How do I keep the skirt board from bowing out as the concrete is being poured?

 

[s219]

Here's what I did, see photo in post #33 on this page:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ole-barn-project-post3791388.html#post3791388

 

[wmonroe]

I had mine poured about a year and a half after the building was finished to allow for any settling. Like you I had about 5" of stone and then went 5.5-6" of concrete. I didn't do anything to the skirt boards, some had already been back filled with stone outside and some were exposed. I did not have any bowing once the concrete was placed, my skirt boards are treated 2x10's and the posts are about 8' on center. Here is a picture of my floor right after they sprayed the sealer on it, wish it was that clean right now.

 

[Mac25]

I had mine poured about a year and a half after the building was finished to allow for any settling. Like you I had about 5" of stone and then went 5.5-6" of concrete. I didn't do anything to the skirt boards, some had already been back filled with stone outside and some were exposed. I did not have any bowing once the concrete was placed, my skirt boards are treated 2x10's and the posts are about 8' on center. Here is a picture of my floor right after they sprayed the sealer on it, wish it was that clean right now.

How did you keep the gravel from running out of the bottom of the skirt board or gravel running inside if you back filled the outside? Trying to figure out if I should back fill the outside first or cut down the sod on the inside first.

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[s219]

Don't backfill against the skirts from the outside more than 1" or so, as they are generally not ground rated lumber (rare that 2x lumber would be). In my case, I had to add additional skirts on the low side of the building to close off the gap below the main skirt. I then raked fill/gravel just up to the bottom edge of the skirts on the outside.

 

[Mac25]

Don't backfill against the skirts from the outside more than 1" or so, as they are generally not ground rated lumber (rare that 2x lumber would be). In my case, I had to add additional skirts on the low side of the building to close off the gap below the main skirt. I then raked fill/gravel just up to the bottom edge of the skirts on the outside.

What lumber did you add that was ground rated?

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[wmonroe]

How did you keep the gravel from running out of the bottom of the skirt board or gravel running inside if you back filled the outside? Trying to figure out if I should back fill the outside first or cut down the sod on the inside first. Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

I placed gravel inside first at close to the level that would be needed for the floor. As I was adding the gravel some did go under the skirt board and end up outside but I didn't really worry about it since I also back filled all around the building with stone also. Like was mentioned most pressure treated wood is not rated for ground contact which is why I went with the gravel, so the water can drain away. One thing I've noticed recently is that as the stone packs and settles it leaves the skirt board exposed to the sun which I think is harder on it than being in the ground, I need to add another inch or two of stone to cover it.

 

[s219]

What lumber did you add that was ground rated?

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I used standard 2x8 lumber, not ground rated.

 

[s219]

One thing I've noticed recently is that as the stone packs and settles it leaves the skirt board exposed to the sun which I think is harder on it than being in the ground, I need to add another inch or two of stone to cover it.

I wouldn't worry about that too much. In fact, you definitely want to make sure as much of the skirt as possible is not in ground contact. Not only is that better for the lumber, it also means you have more "gap" to the siding material, which is generally a lot more vulnerable.

The real problem for lumber is intermittent wet/dry conditions, or cases where moisture can collect or get trapped periodically.

 

[wmonroe]

I wouldn't worry about that too much. In fact, you definitely want to make sure as much of the skirt as possible is not in ground contact. Not only is that better for the lumber, it also means you have more "gap" to the siding material, which is generally a lot more vulnerable. The real problem for lumber is intermittent wet/dry conditions, or cases where moisture can collect or get trapped periodically.

On my building the skirt board is only in contact with gravel, no soil. I'm just thinking about adding more gravel to keep the sun from hitting it.