Compatibility Massey 35 and 135 PTO operating the same snowblower

[Farmer495]

Most of good advices have been given...I'd ad one...important: get a four paddle blower, forget the three paddle blower

Yes, I had a 3 paddle and went to a 5 paddle one same width. The 3 paddle still moved a lot of snow.

 

[Jims1025R]

I have just started a research project or doing just the opposite - converting a rear 3pt blower to a front mount mid-pto configuration. I can not seem to find a gerbox for changing the direction of input rotation though - any leads you might have?? Tks

Search for a "john deere 47 gearbox), and you're getting close. Made by Durst. Beware though, the same housing has reversing and non reversing versions. I removed a non reversing one during my conversion to three point mount. Check your PTO directions very carefully though. I opine that snowblowers were generally made the same, irrespective of front or rear mount. I gave a lot of thought, and double thinking to be sure I had the rotations correct.

15" fan should be geared to turn 1000 to 1200 RPM, according to my investigations, and some wise advice given. If 20" diameter, it can be direct drive from a 540 RPM PTO.

 

[Bentrim]

Most small Masseys run the PTO at a slower engine RPM than other manufacturers. Check the tach for the 540 speed. When the engine is operated wide open I believe the PTO turns around 640 RPM. The blower will have more capacity and more throw distance when wide open compared to running at the 540 throttle setting. Fellow I used to work for used to demonstrate a 135 on a silo blower and made some 100 hp tractor owners feel real bad when they couldn't put it up the pipe with there big tractor but the little 135 could due to the extra speed.

 

[JWR]

As you have already found there is no shortage of opinions on here !

Here are mine: 1) The PTOs are standardized. You will have no problem there. 2) You should be able to run a 6ft blower OK. As others said you want the blower as wide or wider than your rear tires. Unless you operate a lot on steep ground set your rear wheels in enough to fit with a 6ft blower. 3) Operating in reverse with your neck twisted to the uncomfortable degree, no cab, snow blowing in your face often -- get out your full snowmobile outfit and use goggles. 4) Being 2WD you are going to get stuck a lot unless you use chains. And steering won't work so well. Probably have to use wheel brakes. 5) That engine heater on your tractor is THE BEST type because it moves warm water through the entire cooling system including the block. That is NOT a block heater really. You will need it in a normal winter in your area. 6) I did not check to see if anyone mentioned it but you should go to 50/50 diesel fuel and kerosene (#2 and #1) anytime it is going to be below around 10 degrees F (minus 12 C.) The fuel will gel in your lines even if your engine is cozy warm. I would NOT depend on additives. They may be helpful but ask any dozer operator in that climate and they will tell you to mix in kerosene during colder weather. 7) I have no idea what the market is like up there where you are (nor what your budget can stand) but 3pt hitch mounted PTO driven snow blowers are usually numerous and readily available both new and used in colder climate areas. I would think that would be true even more so up where you are too. Try a few dealers in North Bay, your local trade papers, etc. You probably already have.

Good luck.

 

[Massey135Temiscaming]

The counter clockwise tach took getting used to when double clutching main box on the road

For snow blower, of the two reverse speeds, you have creeper slow (low range) and warp speed (high range).

When I ran a 78" on the 240, Low reverse was perfect, I used foot throttle and just held it to the floor, no worries over speeding a snow blower and it works better.

For deep snow you carry the blower a foot or more off the ground and just take the top off the snow 1st pass, if the RPMs fall off, clutch 1st stage and let the blower clear, good time to shift to forward (L4) and travel back to where you started, then drop blower all the way, or even just below 1st pass height, make second/third pass to clean the path. Once you have the width of the blower totally clear, you can take 1/2, 1/3, 1/4 width of the blower or whatever you can do without stopping/clutching.

I've had to chew through 4 foot drifts. Does take the toll on the clutch leg going back and forth.

Great advise on how to deal with deep snow. Thank You

 

[Farmer495]

Most small Masseys run the PTO at a slower engine RPM than other manufacturers. Check the tach for the 540 speed. When the engine is operated wide open I believe the PTO turns around 640 RPM. The blower will have more capacity and more throw distance when wide open compared to running at the 540 throttle setting. Fellow I used to work for used to demonstrate a 135 on a silo blower and made some 100 hp tractor owners feel real bad when they couldn't put it up the pipe with there big tractor but the little 135 could due to the extra speed.

Yes, 1789 RPM on a MF 240 for 540 RPM, the 152 tops out @ 2200 RPM or so......even when it lugs back it PTO still turning 540+

I have an orange one that will turn almost 500 engine RPM over PTO speed, works good on blower too.

 

[Farmer495]

4) Being 2WD you are going to get stuck a lot unless you use chains. And steering won't work so well. Probably have to use wheel brakes.

6) I did not check to see if anyone mentioned it but you should go to 50/50 diesel fuel and kerosene (#2 and #1) anytime it is going to be below around 10 degrees F (minus 12 C.) The fuel will gel in your lines even if your engine is cozy warm. I would NOT depend on additives. They may be helpful but ask any dozer operator in that climate and they will tell you to mix in kerosene during colder weather.

Yes, if it's never leaving the yard chains help a ton but you can get away without them. I did a lot of road travel and it was nice to do 22 MPH between driveways. The only time I wanted chains on the 240 blowing snow was backing up hill on ice with the blower down, I had to blow downhill in those cases. The tractor had no loader or front weights and would walk through 2 feet of snow driving forward with the front wheels in the air, steering with the brakes. Would drive forward to top of the driveway and then work downhill.

I've done ok with the white power service fuel treatment and another fuel conditioner that had antigel in it, but I am under the impression we get "winter fuel" (#1 diesel?). I've been lucky and never had diesel gel, including at -20C to -30C when cattle had to be fed. Other people I know locally have had it gel, but claim they had "summer fuel" in the tractor.

 

[JWR]

Farmer 495 -- The traction with a 2WD depends a lot on what tractor you are using, what tires and mainly whether the snow is fluffy stuff or packed or wet. You have the experience with a 35 or 135 or equivalent tractor in terms of weight , traction, etc. which I do not.

I have had "getting stuck" problems with a 4WD Kubota more than once but always on deep wet snow or old, packed snow. And that was with turf tires. Have since changed to Ag tires and they are way better, but had such little snow last few years it is not a fair test. In the heavy snow area there in Quebec I would think getting stuck using a 2WD for snow plowing is very likely.

Winterized fuel in cold climates has some kind of additive on a regional basis. My problem with that is you never know for sure what is in it, was it really winterized, was it from an older summer filled tank, etc. For sure winterized fuel is NOT #1 (#1 is kerosene.) I've not heard of people going more than 50% kerosene nor is there any need to. From your experience at minus 20 to minus 30C obviously your fuel in Nova Scotia is being treated/winterized or you would have had total stoppage due to gelling.

 

[Farmer495]

Farmer 495 -- The traction with a 2WD depends a lot on what tractor you are using, what tires and mainly whether the snow is fluffy stuff or packed or wet. You have the experience with a 35 or 135 or equivalent tractor in terms of weight , traction, etc. which I do not.

I have had "getting stuck" problems with a 4WD Kubota more than once but always on deep wet snow or old, packed snow. And that was with turf tires. Have since changed to Ag tires and they are way better, but had such little snow last few years it is not a fair test. In the heavy snow area there in Quebec I would think getting stuck using a 2WD for snow plowing is very likely.

Winterized fuel in cold climates has some kind of additive on a regional basis. My problem with that is you never know for sure what is in it, was it really winterized, was it from an older summer filled tank, etc. For sure winterized fuel is NOT #1 (#1 is kerosene.) I've not heard of people going more than 50% kerosene nor is there any need to. From your experience at minus 20 to minus 30C obviously your fuel in Nova Scotia is being treated/winterized or you would have had total stoppage due to gelling.

You are correct, almost everyone with a 2wd has chains here in the winter, better safe than sorry. I see some leave them on all year round as snow removal is the main purpose of their tractor.

I should have added my tires were loaded with calcium too, I would imagine unloaded tires wouldn't do as well unchained.

The 2wd loader tractor here wears chains in the winter, it's completely useless in snow and ice without them and it's a heavier tractor on larger rubber with calcium too.

For fuel I normally try to keep the bulk tank low late fall / early winter and get it filled in "winter season" to get winter fuel.

 

[puzlrock]

I have a Massey 165 tractor. I use an old Brewster Rotary blower I bought for $200.00 and refurbished. It is a 3 point pull behind, it has only 2 moving parts. My PTO is live and I can blow 2 feet of snow about 20 yards off the road. Lot of snow in NW Montana too.