Trevj
Member
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2012
- Messages
- 35
- Location
- Interior British Columbia
- Tractor
- BCS, FE-35, Mitsubishi 2500, Gravely 524 project
I have my 1958 FE-35 apart as a result of the prior owner doing a rather bang-up job of the clutch. Quite literally. It's a dual clutch with the normal 6 speed transmission.
Two brand new clutch plates, destroyed! Next will be the quick job of pulling the input bearing housing to check for damage.
Oh well, it came to me pretty cheaply as a result.
Have seen some references to having to double up on the shims in some early FE-35's with this engine, as well, without any references as to what would indicate the need, or does that presume that the 'wrong' plates are installed but made to work? Anyone got any info to clear up whether I am likely to need an extra shim set? Is it based on the depth measurements of the flywheel or...???
I'd very much like to only do this once, as you might imagine...
Aside from the clutch, I may have access to a parts machine that had been in a front end fire. When I ran the serial number it indicated that it had a diff lock. Might be a handy thing to have, thinks I, but it raised the question of the practicality of swapping the parts in, or otherwise grafting these two together to make it work.
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Trev
Two brand new clutch plates, destroyed! Next will be the quick job of pulling the input bearing housing to check for damage.
Oh well, it came to me pretty cheaply as a result.
Have seen some references to having to double up on the shims in some early FE-35's with this engine, as well, without any references as to what would indicate the need, or does that presume that the 'wrong' plates are installed but made to work? Anyone got any info to clear up whether I am likely to need an extra shim set? Is it based on the depth measurements of the flywheel or...???
I'd very much like to only do this once, as you might imagine...
Aside from the clutch, I may have access to a parts machine that had been in a front end fire. When I ran the serial number it indicated that it had a diff lock. Might be a handy thing to have, thinks I, but it raised the question of the practicality of swapping the parts in, or otherwise grafting these two together to make it work.
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Trev
