I have a 1910 and the clutch is not disengaging when I depress the clutch pedal. I have adjusted the clutch several time but it does not help. Is this a mechanical mechanism, if so I would guess I bent the the fork that moves the throw out bearing against the pressure plate, or could just be a poor pressure plate? This happened very sudden. Was just starting to notice that I had to press the clutch pedal in all the way and then one day I started it and the clutch did not function at all.
Clutch does not disengage
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ToadHill
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Throw out bearing could have come apart,pressure plate fingers could have weakened, the intermediate linkage could be bent or have fallen off. Lets hope its #3.
MrJimi
Elite Member, Rest in Peace
Jim
The linkage moves a lever underneath the transmission, not sue why? I assume the clutch throw out is the lever moving on the front of the transmission bellhousing (which also moves when I depress the clutch pedal). I can feel a little play in the lever on the transmission bell housing then it tightens against something. I assume this is the throw out bearing engaging against the pressure plate, but when I depress the clutch further nothing happens.
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svcguy
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1) If the clutch suddenly stopped working (was fine five minutes ago, won't work now), you more than likely have a failed throw-out bearing. In this case, you split the tractor and renew the failed component (and probably a clutch set since you have it apart).
2) If the tractor has been sitting for 6 weeks and now the clutch won't disengage, then your clutch plate is more than likely seized to the flywheel. In this case (and you didn't hear it from me) check the tractor is freewheeling (not stuck to the ground), start in low gear and drive (uphill if possible) with the clutch in until it breaks free. Another method is someone pulls (jerks) the tractor with a tow strap while you have the clutch pushed in. (I know, shouldn't do this, dangerous, etc. - not suggesting you do it, just that I and many people have).
3) The other possibility is that by incorrectly adjusting the clutch (less than zero clearance) or / and, then stepping on it, you can bend the fingers on the pressure plate and lunch it. In this case, correction is the same as number 1.
2) If the tractor has been sitting for 6 weeks and now the clutch won't disengage, then your clutch plate is more than likely seized to the flywheel. In this case (and you didn't hear it from me) check the tractor is freewheeling (not stuck to the ground), start in low gear and drive (uphill if possible) with the clutch in until it breaks free. Another method is someone pulls (jerks) the tractor with a tow strap while you have the clutch pushed in. (I know, shouldn't do this, dangerous, etc. - not suggesting you do it, just that I and many people have).
3) The other possibility is that by incorrectly adjusting the clutch (less than zero clearance) or / and, then stepping on it, you can bend the fingers on the pressure plate and lunch it. In this case, correction is the same as number 1.
Tractor had set for sevaral weeks prior to starting. I was starting it to remove snow from the driveway,so it was also cold. However, I did get it started in neutral and at low rpms, with much grinding got it in gear, not sure I held the clutch in except at low rpms. I will try this again and hold the clutch in as I work the tractor. Never heard of this before, so thx for the advice.
Bob
Bob
bncsauve
Silver Member
Check the clutch stop. It probably has loosened and is stopping the clutch pedal too soon.
Checked and it is OK. The clutch pedal feels right, there is a little play at the top, then it starts to engage (feel pressure). I assume this is the throw out bearing meeting the pressure plate, but nothing happens, the clutch just stays engaged. Thx for the suggestion.
Bob
Bob
ToadHill
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It sure sounds like you have the clutch rusted to the pressure plate and flywheel. Once you get it broken loose look to see if your tractor has a device to hook over the clutch peddle to hold it in a disengaged position when you are going to let it sit for a while. Some have it, if not you might want to consider hooking up something like that on your machine.
svcguy
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Was away on business for a few days, but from what you have said, I would say your clutch plate is frozen or rusted to your flywheel. This is a common problem and as mentioned, many tractors have a small hook on the side plate and a pin on the clutch pedal to hook it out of contact when the tractor is stored. People have mixed feelings about locking the clutch back, but it makes sense during storage if you don't have access to a dry area.
Clutch disks are composites and many types have characteristics that are prone to sticking when left engaged (parked) for a while. Not all tractors are problematic, in fact, I have started tractors that were parked for 10 years without problems and others will stick after a short period of damp weather. It's due to the composites used in the clutch plate, not the tractor itself.
We always ensure the tractor is not stuck or frozen to the ground. This is not to be taken lightly - a frozen tractor can power over if given enough fuel in low gear: the solution for those parking outside is to always back up first to ensure the rear wheels are not frozen to the ground. When frozen and moving in reverse, it either breaks free or kills the motor by forcing the tractor down on the front wheels. Because tractors have the advantage of gear reduction final drives, starting a tractor frozen to the ground in 1st gear can simply lift the front end and power the entire tractor over. Take it from someone who has experienced this, you will not have the presence of mind to push in the clutch and stop it. In my case, the tractor broke free when the front axle was about eye level. It was not a pleasant landing for either the tractor or myself.
If you have the space, don't try and shift a tractor without the clutch, there is too much possibility of damage. (No syncro means no mercy for the transmission). If your tractor is in good shape and starts easily, you are better off (if and when possible) to simply start it in low gear (it won't hurt it) and drive off at low speed. Be ready to kill the engine if you need to stop and just drive around with the clutch pushed in until it lets go. Because in has been a relatively short period, this should not take much. If it is icey out, wait until the roads are clean and you have good traction.
By the way, you would be well off to drain your transmission fluid and either filter it or replace the oil to get rid of your grindings. Grinding gears leaves a fair bit of metal floating around in there and isn't good for bearings or the fine finish of everything else.
Clutch disks are composites and many types have characteristics that are prone to sticking when left engaged (parked) for a while. Not all tractors are problematic, in fact, I have started tractors that were parked for 10 years without problems and others will stick after a short period of damp weather. It's due to the composites used in the clutch plate, not the tractor itself.
We always ensure the tractor is not stuck or frozen to the ground. This is not to be taken lightly - a frozen tractor can power over if given enough fuel in low gear: the solution for those parking outside is to always back up first to ensure the rear wheels are not frozen to the ground. When frozen and moving in reverse, it either breaks free or kills the motor by forcing the tractor down on the front wheels. Because tractors have the advantage of gear reduction final drives, starting a tractor frozen to the ground in 1st gear can simply lift the front end and power the entire tractor over. Take it from someone who has experienced this, you will not have the presence of mind to push in the clutch and stop it. In my case, the tractor broke free when the front axle was about eye level. It was not a pleasant landing for either the tractor or myself.
If you have the space, don't try and shift a tractor without the clutch, there is too much possibility of damage. (No syncro means no mercy for the transmission). If your tractor is in good shape and starts easily, you are better off (if and when possible) to simply start it in low gear (it won't hurt it) and drive off at low speed. Be ready to kill the engine if you need to stop and just drive around with the clutch pushed in until it lets go. Because in has been a relatively short period, this should not take much. If it is icey out, wait until the roads are clean and you have good traction.
By the way, you would be well off to drain your transmission fluid and either filter it or replace the oil to get rid of your grindings. Grinding gears leaves a fair bit of metal floating around in there and isn't good for bearings or the fine finish of everything else.
Thx for the advice. I am waiting for it to get a bit warmer before I go outside and try to brake it loose. It has been cold for a few weeks here in the Denver area. Lots of snow in the mountains gives me better things to do than play tractor.
Think skiiing
Bob
Think skiiing
Bob
rdbrumfield
Veteran Member
This is something I have had to deal with on a jeep and a small dozer. What I did with the dozer is start it in gear with the steering clutches disengaged and put the main clutch in. By letting out the steering clutches and putting pressure to the main clutch it would pop free while holding the clutch pedal down.
with the jeep, had to have it in gear with a rolling start while holding the clutch down. By juicing the engine it will sometimes break the clutch free.
I don't recommend using these practices unless you are familiar and feel comfortable doing it, but it does work in some cases. Be sure you have lots of room and be ready to take it out of gear if need be. Use the highest gear possible, it takes more torque. Sure beats tearing down the tractor.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the shear pin, or woodruff key on the rocker shaft the the throw out forks ride on. I have seen them give way. Trouble is seeing inside the bellhousing.
One other way is to jack up the tractor, start it in gear, high gear, and depress the clutch while braking the rears. BE SURE THAT THE TRACTOR IS STABILIZED AND CANNOT MOVE.
with the jeep, had to have it in gear with a rolling start while holding the clutch down. By juicing the engine it will sometimes break the clutch free.
I don't recommend using these practices unless you are familiar and feel comfortable doing it, but it does work in some cases. Be sure you have lots of room and be ready to take it out of gear if need be. Use the highest gear possible, it takes more torque. Sure beats tearing down the tractor.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the shear pin, or woodruff key on the rocker shaft the the throw out forks ride on. I have seen them give way. Trouble is seeing inside the bellhousing.
One other way is to jack up the tractor, start it in gear, high gear, and depress the clutch while braking the rears. BE SURE THAT THE TRACTOR IS STABILIZED AND CANNOT MOVE.
elalexander
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I agree. The new 3005 john deere gear transmission tractor comes with a clip to resolve this issue. For storage??? you push the clutch in and then slip a clip on the clutch arm and this clip holds the clutch open. I bet you get some good service calls for this issue on models without the clip option.
