Clutch Adjustment--Rhino/Benye

[RodR]

Tractor: 40hp Rhino model 4134

I need information on how to determine the correct adjustment for the clutch. It has a two stage clutch. One rod appears to go to the pressure plate and the other back to the PTO (an assumption). I've adjusted the clutch (pressure plate side) and the stop point but it still wants to grind going into gear. If I've been driving the tractor it shifts much easier, unless it has been idling in neutral.

Photos attached

The tractor does not have any synchros so it has to be at a complete stop before changing gear.

Your advice will much appreciated.

 

[bluechip]

If the rod going to the rear is entering the gearbox, it is probably just moving lock pins. With the tractor off, will the shift lever change gears without stepping on the clutch? I have had fotons with this. It is a more positive way to lock the lever in position (in gear) than the more common ball spring detent design. Or it could be the brake rod, does it move with the clutch pedal?

To properly adjust your clutch you will have to find the access to the bell housing area. the external adjustment is to maintain free play on the pedal (clearance for throw out bearing) and max travel (release of PTO disk) only.

Your cover may be under the loader bracke, probably on the right side (as seated facing forward). I have not worked on Benye/Rhino so cant be certain. There are 2 basic 2 stage designs, one has 6 fingers on the clutch, 3 for main 3 further back for PTO, the other has 3 fingers and 3 pull rods (bolts) that have a perscribed gap that allows the main pressure plate to pull off before pulling the PTO pressure plate off. If you have your owners manual, it should show the perscribed gaps in a drawing of the clutch.

Does your PTO stop with the clutch pedal all the way down, but the gears are still dragging causing excessive grinding? If so it could be that one of the fingers or a part of the clutch is badly out of ajustment or broken. Wether 3 or 6 fingers, each set must be set at the same distance from the throw out bearing.

If you don't have the manual, once you tell us if you have 3 fingers or 6 fingers, we can probably finde a sample diagram to get you close.

 

[RodR]

Thanks, I'll do a test to what the interaction is with the PTO. And also find the access cover.

I bought the tractor used and did not get a repair manual.

Thanks again

 

[RodR]

If the rod going to the rear is entering the gearbox, it is probably just moving lock pins. ...Or it could be the brake rod, does it move with the clutch pedal?

On a much closer look the rod going back is the left brake.

With the tractor off, will the shift lever change gears without stepping on the clutch? I have had fotons with this. It is a more positive way to lock the lever in position (in gear) than the more common ball spring detent design.

With the tractor off It shifts easily.

To properly adjust your clutch you will have to find the access to the bell housing area. the external adjustment is to maintain free play on the pedal.... There are 2 basic 2 stage designs, one has 6 fingers on the clutch, 3 for main 3 further back for PTO, the other has 3 fingers and 3 pull rods (bolts) that have a perscribed gap that allows the main pressure plate to pull off before pulling the PTO pressure plate off. If you have your owners manual, it should show the perscribed gaps in a drawing of the clutch.

Found the access plate -- I adjusted the 3 fingers to just off the throw out bearing. No effect. I found this difficult. Not much room and a second nut is used to lock the adjuster and I'm not able to get two wrenches in play simultaneously. I'm sure each finger is adjusted with a different gap since it was all down by feel.

The tractor starts in gear with the clutch in but it creeps and grinds on attempting to shift to neutral.

Does your PTO stop with the clutch pedal all the way down, but the gears are still dragging causing excessive grinding?

With the clutch all the way in the PTO rolls to a stop. Grinding occurs trying to shift with the PTO engaged or not.

If so it could be that one of the fingers or a part of the clutch is badly out of ajustment or broken. Wether 3 or 6 fingers, each set must be set at the same distance from the throw out bearing.
If you don't have the manual, once you tell us if you have 3 fingers or 6 fingers, we can probably finde a sample diagram to get you close.

Attached is the diagram from my parts book for the clutch. Having messed with the freeplay, the stop bolt and the fingers, where would you suggest starting.

Thanks for your time.

 

[bluechip]

That is a completely different clutch than i have seen. The double nutted bolts is your adjustment, If you are getting enough pull to stop the PTO disk (it is normal to coast to stop as there is no brake (usually) on the PTO. If these are the points you used to adjust to get all 3 fingers exactly the same distance from the throw out bearing (you may have to put some pressure on them to take out the slack as there is a spring showing up on the drawing).
It could be that the clutch disk has come apart and a piece of the lining material is wedged between the disk and the pressure plate. Was one of the fingers out of line with the other two before you adjusted?

Wish I could be more help but this is not the same type of clutch pack used in the KAMA or JINMA or Foton tractors we have experienced...

 

[RodR]

Thanks Bluechip,
The fingers seemed to be about the same distance from the throw out bearing.
Your information and knowledge has been helpful.

 

[rgillig]

Rod,

I have a Rhino 3440 and just pulled the clutch bundle out and am getting ready to reinstall (broken spring plate). Question, have you tried the second adjustment (the single lock nut on the allen screw, about an inch or two away from the double nut adjustment (I can see it in your pic inside the inspection plate). I believe this is the adjustment for the second stage of the clutch bundle. Simply back off the single nut and turn in the adjustment bolt a turn or two on each of the three allen screws. Test by starting and shifting after each adjustment until you have success.

Good luck! And wish me luck on my resintsall......
Reed

 

[rgillig]

Wow! I see I'm responding to a ten-yr. old post.
Oops