Oil & Fuel Clogging fuel filter - cannot figure this out

[RalphVa]

Only time I ever had a fuel filter problem on the Benz we drove for 25 years was when we switched to bio fuel. The 3rd fillup plugged the fuel filter. Bio cleans crud out of the tank that had built up there from regular diesel usage.

Ralph

 

[crashz]

Agree, check and clean the lines and switch fuels to a good diesel that is turned over frequently, like from a truck stop.

Another thought: since you buy fuel one can at a time, could your storage method be a problem? IE is the can left outside and the nozzle filling with rain or snow? Even condensation is a problem. Diesel and biodiesel are both hydroscopic and will absorb water, even moisture in the air.

If you are feeling adventurous, you can try cutting your fuel with kerosene. I did that a few years ago to relieve a gelling problem and it works well. Just keep in mind that kerosene has very low lubricity, so use it sparingly and ideally with a good additive.

 

[Reb954]

Just out of curiosity, read the manual to see what it says about what type of fuel should be used. Myself, I avoid biodiesel like the plague. But I avoid high ethanol gas like the plague too due to my vehicles running like crap on it.

 

[deezler]

Hmmm, I've had some similar challenges on my Cub (also a 3-cyl mitsubishi diesel). I put old junk diesel with 20% bio in my fuel tank ONCE, and have had some problems ever since. Even rounds of biocide and additives have never gotten it all the way back to normal (I'm too lazy to pull the whole tank and wash it out, so far). But thankfully for me, a clean fuel filter will give me at least 50 hours of good running.

It sounds like you could have an additional issue. If your fuel filter is not obviously clogged, plenty of diesel should be able to get through. My filters get totally packed with slimy crud before performance starts to fall off. So you likely also have A) a weak lift pump, B) a partial clog in a fuel line, C) an AIR infiltration leak, or hopefully not D) a problem with your main injection pump up on the motor.

A relatively easy thing to do would be to upgrade your filter housing to something larger, with less vacuum/obstruction, and a bigger lift pump with a couple more PSI.

 

[FTG-05]

You been getting bio diesel from a station with turn over is min? Change go to the truck stop.

Using bio-diesel is a possible two-fer:

1st: Bio typically has a higher cloud point then than regular diesel, depending on how it's made, the quality and how close the manufacturer follows ASTM 975-20. Of course, since the OP does not list his location, we have no clue how to evaluate this issue. AK or Canada or any other US Siberian state during this time of year: Big Issue. South FL or PRK? DGAS.

2nd: Bio is an excellent solvent. Not unusual to have to R&R fuel filters as it dissolves God knows what in the fuel system. Especially when it's first being used.

Love's or Pilot - ASAP.

 

[evomx971]

Are you using the silver or white bottle of Power Service.
Bio Diesel will start to form wax and plug filters at 40 degrees.

I've been using the white bottle. My understanding is that it's the best to prevent gelling/wax. I do think the filters are waxing over. Can't see anything visually but the paper feels slimy and if you fill one with diesel it takes forever for it to seep out.

 

[evomx971]

Located in the Des Moines, Iowa area.

My dealer had recommended a place (it's a local grocery chain that sells gas but sees a lot of traffic) that he thought sold non-bio. I picked up 5 gallons from there today. The pumps had no signage regarding bio so I'm optimistic that what I got is real diesel fuel. The tractor is getting fairly low on fuel so will fill it up with what is hopefully a better grade of fuel than I've been getting. Zero degrees here this morning. Next warmish day I'm also going to figure out what size fuel line it has and go get a big but cheap in-line filter that fits and put it in as a pre-filter.

Agree with others - hate ethanol in my gas and if this turns out to be the solution - gonna hate bio-diesel as well.

 

[evomx971]

Next time it does it, I think I also need to pull the line between the filter and the lift pump and check the flow. That would help more positively identify the issue as being upstream of the lift pump and continue to point back to the fuel/line/filter as the problem. In theory, the lift pump could get hot and or get weak after running for awhile and it cools off and gets enough better during the time it takes me to swap the filter and bleed that it runs ok for another couple hours. Would be nice it it didn't crap out on me when I'm in the middle of a blizzard trying to get the driveway and lane opened up from snow

 

[Ford850]

I've been using the white bottle. My understanding is that it's the best to prevent gelling/wax. I do think the filters are waxing over. Can't see anything visually but the paper feels slimy and if you fill one with diesel it takes forever for it to seep out.

:thumbsup:

 

[LouNY]

With those temperatures go get some kerosene dump it in your tractors tank,
50/50 kerosene and #2 makes a good winter blend fuel and more kerosene on real cold days is simple insurance.
And still add your double dose power serve.

 

[evomx971]

When does mixing with kerosene ever become a "problem" and what issues can it cause?

 

[LouNY]

I'm also going to go against the grain, I like bio diesel in the summer.
Below 45F it is a pain, you almost need a heated tank and filters for bio fuels.

 

[LouNY]

When does mixing with kerosene ever become a "problem" and what issues can it cause?

With a lubricant added you can run 100% kerosene the old mechanical pumps would run forever on it.
Many manufactures will recommend #1 in cold weather, some start recommending winter fuels below 50F.
Then the debate starts as to what is winter fuel.
It used to be blended #2 and #1 going heavier to #1 the colder it got.
Now all they use is anti-gell additives.
The more kerosene you blend the lower your power output and the greater the fuel usage,
thats because kerosene or #1 have less btu's per gallon.

 

[ruffdog]

Well, my toolcat just stopped and threw a low fuel rail pressure code. I was coming up on the 500 hour fuel filter change so I did and it seems to run fine now. Every time I get fuel for winter I put a sample in a clear plastic bottle to put in the freezer for the cold (0-F) test. This year I was not happy how the off-road fuel was testing as it looked a bit slimy. I have now swapped the filter and am freezing a sample of the new fuel from a very busy truck station and the fuel that came out of the filter. Last year with the cold testing, I found that white bottle PS is not enough. You need the winter blend fuel. It is amazing how quickly the slimy fuel turns clear as soon as it warms just a bit.

 

[Sergei1]

I checked the cap and when the tractor has lost power in the past I've tried taking it off to see if it helps and it didn't so pretty sure it's not the cap vent. I have not cleaned out the filter housing passages - will try that next time I have the filter out.

Couple of questions.
How many hours are on the tractor.
Where in Iowa are you? I'm just outside Vinton and I only get my fuel from Linn CO-OP .
Have you checked the fuel line from the filter housing to the pump? I read somewhere where the line had either a crack or was loose and was allowing air to be sucked into the line and didn't show a leak being on the suction side.

 

[Rebeldad1]

Couple of questions.
How many hours are on the tractor.
Where in Iowa are you? I'm just outside Vinton and I only get my fuel from Linn CO-OP .
Have you checked the fuel line from the filter housing to the pump? I read somewhere where the line had either a crack or was loose and was allowing air to be sucked into the line and didn't show a leak being on the suction side.

That would also affect it running in the summer as well

 

[RustyA]

Have you tried straight #1 diesel off road? Pretty sure in Iowa all pump diesel has at least 5% bio. Algae and mold love bio as it feeds on it. #1 won't need treatment.

 

[Sergei1]

The red off road diesel that I buy from the CoOp has no bio in it. It's a totally separate tank that's in the back area, not with main fuel pumps. I called and checked. Depending on where you live I am sure you can find some and if nothing else ask a local farmer. And then buy yourself another 5 gal container and start fresh.
It used to be until a couple years ago that the red dyed diesel had a higher sulfur level which help keep fuel contamination down and longer storage, but I guess the government changed that.
Also Ive found interesting reading on Bellperformance.com on fuel contamination under fuel & tank services which might be of help.

 

[hayboy48]

I had a similar problem, but hopefully cleaning my filler cap solved my problem. Had begun to think about removing my tank and cleaning it.
Talking about the off road diesel, I have been told they come from the same tank, it just has red dye added,

 

[Industrial Toys]

I don't have the slightest clue about your (specific) tractor. But I know that fuel issues can drive a man insane!

Where is the tank? Is it gravity fed or being sucked out. If Gravity, maybe it gets to a point where a suction leak makes it impossible to suck more fuel.

Sometimes the worse thing about a fuel issue is the more you mess with it, the more trouble you might be adding to the equasion. Generally speaking, fuel under pressure is easy to diagnose leaking. Fuel under suction can be a biatch!

Again, just throwing stuff out there, because failing after some hours of running is ODD. Any chance of the fuel solenoid quitting from getting hot or the circuit that runs it heating up and quitting?