Clemsonfor's Hydraulics rebuild.

[clemsonfor]

Pette i lower mine as well, but its suppose to hold not drop. On the extreme end of this if it leaks to much casusing a constant flow of fluid through the vavle it will over heat the fluid causing you to loose lift ability and cycle time. I know cause my first vavle did that, the place i got the tractor from swapped valves and this one apparently has an ever so slight leak in it too??

 

[clemsonfor]

Been almost 24 hours and its not moved an inch since i locked the valve under the seat and left my boxblade lifted. The valve has to be bypassing somehow? Its either worn out or one of those orings is worn or there is trash in it?

 

[clemsonfor]

Three days with the Lockout closed and not budged a half inch!! It would never do that before. The trouble is definitly in the valve.

 

[clemsonfor]

Took the valve apart and put a new oring from Hoye in there. The old one was pretty worn and flat looking. The new one looks like its 2 sizes to small compared to the old one. Long story short the ball bearing and cup fell out upon dissasembly and i did not see how it went in, so the first 2x i put it in wrong, and it was way worse than the Original oring!! FOR those who DO THIS, THE CUP FACES THE BALL BEARING AND THE NIPPLE GOES IN THE SPRING! Those that take this appart will realize what im talking about!! I had the cup on the end of it all and that was the problem. Anyway the new oring is no better than the old one, it still leaks down about an inch and a half in 10 mins or so!! This is driving me crazy. I have had 2 guys to say not worry about it including one at Hoye. I have gone this far and it bugs me! Hoye said about half of them leak like that. I dont want mine too, but i guess i will have to live with it.

Also when looking at the Hoye diagram, there appears a snap ring that holds that plunger inthe inner cylinder, well on mine it was 2 cresent shape pieces of steel round wire. You have to depress the plunger and pic them out one at the time. There tedious at first but i think there better than a snap ring to get back in. Well maybe not, i could not use a snap ring as the one i ordered from Hoye was not close to fitting!

SO to summerize im no different that i was 2 weeks ago, except im an expert on rebuilding and dissasembly of the 3pt valve on a ym2000.

 

[winston1]

I hate to hear your results. Would you happen to have a picture of ref #3 on the control valve? I'll call that the piston, probably not the correct name. Just guessing a real close tolerance between it and the control valve body is what controls leakage. I sent you a pm.

 

[clemsonfor]

Maybe Winston, i figure thats what was leaking as that Piston thing had some rust on both ends of it some wear looking areas on the valve body.

Oh well, its perfectly fine, after all your implement is not really suppose to be in the air for days anyway, but that is how its designed, so i was trying to acheive these results.

 

[Doctor Bob]

Took the valve apart and put a new oring from Hoye in there. The old one was pretty worn and flat looking. The new one looks like its 2 sizes to small compared to the old one. Long story short the ball bearing and cup fell out upon dissasembly and i did not see how it went in, so the first 2x i put it in wrong, and it was way worse than the Original oring!! FOR those who DO THIS, THE CUP FACES THE BALL BEARING AND THE NIPPLE GOES IN THE SPRING! Those that take this appart will realize what im talking about!! I had the cup on the end of it all and that was the problem. Anyway the new oring is no better than the old one, it still leaks down about an inch and a half in 10 mins or so!! This is driving me crazy. I have had 2 guys to say not worry about it including one at Hoye. I have gone this far and it bugs me! Hoye said about half of them leak like that. I dont want mine too, but i guess i will have to live with it.

Also when looking at the Hoye diagram, there appears a snap ring that holds that plunger inthe inner cylinder, well on mine it was 2 cresent shape pieces of steel round wire. You have to depress the plunger and pic them out one at the time. There tedious at first but i think there better than a snap ring to get back in. Well maybe not, i could not use a snap ring as the one i ordered from Hoye was not close to fitting!

SO to summerize im no different that i was 2 weeks ago, except im an expert on rebuilding and dissasembly of the 3pt valve on a ym2000.

So I had an interesting situation occur with my 3 point hitch dropping with little to no weight on it. By the way, I use a hoe on the 3 point which has a wet kit on it driven by the PTO. With the hoe on the hitch it dropped almost immediately due to the high weight of the implement. So I really wanted the 3 pt fixed. Read this entire forum a number of times and felt reread to tackle the job.
Well after a wrestling match with the sheet metal and seat I got down to the3 pt box. First I pulled the rear 3 pt casting support of and no hole through the box to access the rear of the piston. Ok. So I pulled the front head off and it came off real easy. It was clean with little to no ridg at the top of the cylinder. Great news BUT no way to grab the piston and no way to push or drive it out because no access in the rear of the case. Well I jerked around for a bit and decided to go to the rear of the tractor and fully lift up an arm and drop it. BAM popped that baby right out. Piston was beautiful with no scores and yes, a brittle and broken seal. Here’s where it gets interesting.
The broken seal on the piston was a self energizing seal NOT an o ring and back-up Teflon ring. I had bought the self energizing seal from Hoye (parts guy is great and very helpful BUT seal was $50 plus $44 shipping. Wow. Seal number came out of my parts manual I bought with the tractor. It fit perfectly, was easy to install (flare was towards cyl head which made flare fold in when pushed into the cylinder) and I coated the seal and seal groove in piston with ATF assembly Lube. Worked great. wrestled the sheet metal and seat back in place and PERFECT FUNCTIONALLITY.
Heres the funny part. After reading this forum I went back to the Hoye diagrams and FOR MY TRACTOR (FX28D) they showed o rin and back-up Teflon ring. So I bought their piston seal set JUST IN CASE! $30. Didn’t need it. Maybe just maybe they did a change order and revised replacement recommendation from self energizing seal to o ring set up. Who knows? But I can honestly say tha I didn’t want to take the chance of tearing that dog down and not having the right parts. Turns out my parts manual was correct and it’s for sure that self energizing seal will do a much better job of handling heavy implements (like my hoe) than an o ring. SORRY FOR THE THESIS BUT I FOUND THIS TO BE PRETTY INTRESTING. Glad I bought that seal out of my parts manual. Really enjoyed reading this discussion. Well done by all and great technical detail. Bob in Texas