One of the videos mentions that the grinder head (or whatever it is called) has dual speeds. Low speed/high torque for grinding stumps and larger pieces and high speed for small brush and mulching. It would take a lot of HP and GPM flow to run one like in the videos. I would imagine it is not cheap considering the use/abuse it was designed to withstand.
Clearing brush or blowdowns
- Thread starter VroomVroom
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One of the videos mentions that the grinder head (or whatever it is called) has dual speeds. Low speed/high torque for grinding stumps and larger pieces and high speed for small brush and mulching. It would take a lot of HP and GPM flow to run one like in the videos. I would imagine it is not cheap considering the use/abuse it was designed to withstand.
May be a bit too much work for what you are looking to do, but here is a tree puller I built. It's basically a choker that gets wrapped around the tree. It works perfect. I made mine a bit larger to handle brush and clumps of trees.
It's just a piece of 2" SC40 pipe and some 5/16" chain. I added a reinforced plate wrapped around the end.
I usually choke down low on the tree and lift with either the bucket or 3-pt. Takes out the tree, roots, and some dirt - but a couple drops and it usually brakes off.
It's just a piece of 2" SC40 pipe and some 5/16" chain. I added a reinforced plate wrapped around the end.
I usually choke down low on the tree and lift with either the bucket or 3-pt. Takes out the tree, roots, and some dirt - but a couple drops and it usually brakes off.
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magicheater
Veteran Member
I have seen this before but like how you have crafted this, I will have to copy and keep in my toolbox for those hard to reach ones!
doall
Platinum Member
now if you're going to use hand tool: chain saw, loppers, etc... I would suggest heavy duty trimmer Stihl 130 or up with a chissel tooth blade. Will cut through pine and cedars 1.5-2" in about 2 seconds flat.
OP
VroomVroom
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All good ideas. But its about 15 miles of a logging road which isnt used anymore. Alot of smaller brush is growing inward, and there is small ditches in places and boulders, so it would be too slow with shears or a chain. Chainsaw right now is the best option, but the mulching heads would just drive along the road and clear it away looked to be the best. But because of the little use I would have for it after the fact, I dont know if buying the attachment is necessary. A homemade version , even if its not as wide would be great. It wouldnt need to do the job as good as a modern mulcher. I have tractors with a 251 doge flathead 6 which has about 110 hp. They can drive over most terrain with no problem. That mulching head would do short work of the roadside for sure.
Ken45101
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Handling the stuff that grows out from the sides is a difficult challenge. I know that's one of my biggest issues in maintaining horse trails. I've really wanted a 4' bucket mounted chain saw, but haven't found one yet 
If it's a lot of small stuff, the hydraulic, skid steer or tractor mounted sickle bar trimmer might work but it won't handle the occasional bigger limb (everythingattachments.com).
Of course the other answer is the side mounted, articulated rotary cutters like they use for along the roadways here. But they take a big tractor with a lot of counter weight.
15 miles of old logging road? Have you considered a bulldozer? :laughing:
Ken
If it's a lot of small stuff, the hydraulic, skid steer or tractor mounted sickle bar trimmer might work but it won't handle the occasional bigger limb (everythingattachments.com).
Of course the other answer is the side mounted, articulated rotary cutters like they use for along the roadways here. But they take a big tractor with a lot of counter weight.
15 miles of old logging road? Have you considered a bulldozer? :laughing:
Ken
savageactor7
Platinum Member
We have a 48" brush hog that has done stuff like that. The bigger stuff we'll raise the BH and back into it slowly.
Before the BH we use to cut that stuff with either a chainsaw or a weed eater with a saw blade. We made production but then had to collect, stack and drag the cuttings away.
The great thing about a BH imo is that it chips all that trash up so you don't have to handle it again.
Before the BH we use to cut that stuff with either a chainsaw or a weed eater with a saw blade. We made production but then had to collect, stack and drag the cuttings away.
The great thing about a BH imo is that it chips all that trash up so you don't have to handle it again.
David Devuono
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I am continously opening trails on my property that were skidder trails about 8 years ago. I have just been backing my tractor (hard on the neck) along with a blade pushing trees that size or bigger over. Once I have gone through a couple of times from each direction most everything is broken off. Then each time I am at camp I run the scrapper blade backwards along the trails. With a J5, if you do not have a blade, you could make up a 6' x 6' chain and steel drag, and just drag it along behind you pulverizing any vegetation. Do that each direction once a month and you will have a road free of trees. I will try and snap a picture of one of my roads.
bc realtor
Silver Member
If you can hire the guy who does the ditches with the boom arm flail mower you would be set. I have the smaller version and have just done a couple of miles for a local judge, took about an hour a mile per 4 foot cut. Can't get into the rocks with mine but works good for what you are explaining. You can see on my site wht I meen:thumbsup:
SNOW PLOWING HEDGE MOWING
SNOW PLOWING HEDGE MOWING
Pokeboater
Member
For our trails, cut big stuff with chainsaw, then bushhog, then the next year spray with herbicides. For the "side" stuff growing into the trail, I use herbicide on a 4 wheeler.