Clay Fill Question

[civilian]

If you really want to try it, don't mix sand and clay. Sand + clay basically makes cement.

So I can take the clay that I drive on, add some sand and I assume some water, then I will have a cement driveway? Jon

 

[RoyKing]

Sorry sand and clay even when baked in the sun won't get as hard as clay. Plus the sand makes it drain better. There is nothing as slippery as wet clay.

 

[civilian]

There is nothing as slippery as wet clay.

I know that from experience. Jon

 

[RoyKing]

I know that from experience. Jon

put me on my butt more than once, did help one time, brought date home and it dropped her, got her take her cloths off so I could was them.

 

[civilian]

put me on my butt more than once, did help one time, brought date home and it dropped her, got her take her cloths off so I could was them.

LOL! Jon

 

[big bubba]

If you really want to try it, don't mix sand and clay. Sand + clay basically makes cement. Buxus
old adage: "add sand to clay, throw money away. add clay to sand is money in hand"

 

[the old grind]

how large an area? that will determine materials, cost, labor. do you have a city source for compost? that alone would make difference. that would be my choice for soil amendment once you get that base clay down. maybe look for a bulk topsoil source as well.
how will you spread & work materials on area?

If you really want to try it, don't mix sand and clay. Sand + clay basically makes cement. Buxus .. old adage: "add sand to clay, throw money away. add clay to sand is money in hand"

Oh, get .. out .. of my head, Brother, you scarin' me. :shocked: (.. I've written and deleted both comments, in so many words. :laughing

What Roy King says. ^^ :thumbsup: and word for word. First-year crops to turn under and build up soil include alfalfa, buckwheat, cow peas, any clover ... Mow any of them 'close'* enough they'll look like 'lawn', (*4" setting on MM/ZTR deck vs 6" w/BH) and their eventual health (2-3 yrs) will tell you when it's time to over-seed with your final choice. Until then, biomass, biomass, biomass ... and I mean all mentioned so far. (!) Ph checks by the third year.

IMO, by far the biggest impediments to a 'nice lawn' are 'blanket' vs 'spot' weed spraying, lack of patience when developing healthy turf (got 2 yrs?), and #1 setting cutting height more than one notch below the highest setting possible. I mow my second house's lawn in the 'transport' position with the '13 Husky MZ6128 or '96 Dixon 4221. Whatever I don't do, "lawn happens".

 

[big bubba]

Oh, get .. out .. of my head, Brother, you scarin' me. :shocked: (.. I've written and deleted both comments, in so many words. :laughing

What Roy King says. ^^ :thumbsup: and word for word. First-year crops to turn under and build up soil include alfalfa, buckwheat, cow peas, any clover ... Mow any of them 'close'* enough they'll look like 'lawn', (*4" setting on MM/ZTR deck vs 6" w/BH) and their eventual health (2-3 yrs) will tell you when it's time to over-seed with your final choice. Until then, biomass, biomass, biomass ... and I mean all mentioned so far. (!) Ph checks by the third year.

IMO, by far the biggest impediments to a 'nice lawn' are 'blanket' vs 'spot' weed spraying, lack of patience when developing healthy turf (got 2 yrs?), and #1 setting cutting height more than one notch below the highest setting possible. I mow my second house's lawn in the 'transport' position with the '13 Husky MZ6128 or '96 Dixon 4221. Whatever I don't do, "lawn happens".

whoa....not sure what you're saying , relax my friend. it's only turf. sure, spray away & mow.... wear the respirator mask, & keep the blood pressure low...it's only grass, best regards

 

[Buxus]

Oh, get .. out .. of my head, Brother, you scarin' me. :shocked: (.. I've written and deleted both comments, in so many words. :laughing

What Roy King says. ^^ :thumbsup: and word for word. First-year crops to turn under and build up soil include alfalfa, buckwheat, cow peas, any clover ... Mow any of them 'close'* enough they'll look like 'lawn', (*4" setting on MM/ZTR deck vs 6" w/BH) and their eventual health (2-3 yrs) will tell you when it's time to over-seed with your final choice. Until then, biomass, biomass, biomass ... and I mean all mentioned so far. (!) Ph checks by the third year.

IMO, by far the biggest impediments to a 'nice lawn' are 'blanket' vs 'spot' weed spraying, lack of patience when developing healthy turf (got 2 yrs?), and #1 setting cutting height more than one notch below the highest setting possible. I mow my second house's lawn in the 'transport' position with the '13 Husky MZ6128 or '96 Dixon 4221. Whatever I don't do, "lawn happens".

This sounds like a good plan.

Here's the Wash State Extension on mixing sand and clay:

https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/soil-amendments-2.pdf

 

[the old grind]

whoa....not sure what you're saying , relax my friend. it's only turf. sure, spray away & mow.... wear the respirator mask, & keep the blood pressure low...it's only grass, best regards

Oh no, LOL, I'm just being positive, if crudely comical/silly. Sincerely agree with your approach/style, so similar to my own 'let it be'.

Ph may matter someday, and gypsum is a great way to lower it when needed, but not all clay needs it lowered much. I have sand vs clay, dry as a popcorn fart four of five Summers, ph ~5 or so. As always, and in general 'less is more'.

btw, when mowing, I'm not sure I suffer w/o mask as I depend on 'full-goggle'-type eye protection over my bifocals. The post-mowing shower alone is no sure way to get grit out of the eyes after a few acres/hours in the seat,