CK3510 Extra Wiring Plugs / LED Project

[ArXane]

Im going to start on a project to to add some lights for a worklight and the ROPS. For the worklight behind the seat that I point at the PTO, I use the connectors for the bullet connector. Im/was going to use a relay for three LED lights that will go on the ROPS, I see that there is also a connector under the seat, passenger side that has three wires. A ground and two hot with ignition. What are these used for? How many amps are they rated for? This is on a CK3510 H

 

[Hyrb]

Looking forward to see how you work this out

 

[N2DFire]

On the older CK Series (Tier III) - that was a "Customer Use" plug and had it's own fuse in the fuse box. It was also only one hot & one ground and, if I remember correctly, was fused at 15 amps.

That's where I picked up the power for our 3rd function.

Check your fuse box for a Customer Use spot and then pull the fuse and see if those wires go cold.

Good Luck with the project.

 

[MichiganIron]

Im going to start on a project to to add some lights for a worklight and the ROPS. For the worklight behind the seat that I point at the PTO, I use the connectors for the bullet connector. Im/was going to use a relay for three LED lights that will go on the ROPS, I see that there is also a connector under the seat, passenger side that has three wires. A ground and two hot with ignition. What are these used for? How many amps are they rated for? This is on a CK3510 H

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View attachment 527715

The 2 bullet connectors behind the right side of the seat near the ROP are intended for rear or auxiliary lights. Safely good for 10 amps.

Hope this helps

 

[ArXane]

Looking more into it. I dont see a customer use fuse, just a 3-Way fuse thats rated for 10amps. Looks to be the fuse for underneath.

Im going to use the bullet connector for the single rear work lamp that will be pointed at the PTO. For the three on top, im going to tap into one of the wires underneath as the signal wire to the relay. I will then run new wires from the battery in a loom for power to the top 3 LED work lights. Im putting together a switch panel now that will be slightly behind drivers seat so it doesnt get bumped and run the switches from there.

Probably be a week or so before I get it all together, I just welded up the bracket last night for the lights and need to find the right size square u-bolts to go around the ROPS.

 

[N2DFire]

Looking more into it. I dont see a customer use fuse, just a 3-Way fuse thats rated for 10amps. Looks to be the fuse for underneath.

Im going to use the bullet connector for the single rear work lamp that will be pointed at the PTO. For the three on top, im going to tap into one of the wires underneath as the signal wire to the relay. I will then run new wires from the battery in a loom for power to the top 3 LED work lights. Im putting together a switch panel now that will be slightly behind drivers seat so it doesnt get bumped and run the switches from there.

Probably be a week or so before I get it all together, I just welded up the bracket last night for the lights and need to find the right size square u-bolts to go around the ROPS.

Yea I was afraid the newer XX10 series had changed when you said it was 2 hot wires & a ground.
Michigan Iron is a Kioti dealer (and top notch folks to boot) and will know the XX10 series a lot better than me so if he says you're good - you're good. :thumbsup:

As far as your switch panel - might want to check these guys out. Lots of neat stuff and some awesome switch legends / graphics OTRATTW

I'm looking forward to seeing the results of your project because that probably the next thing on my list.

Good Luck

 

[Huffmeister]

Hi folks ... so I have a '17 CK3510H with the 2 wires (hot when ignition ON) at the right of my seat, next to the ROPS. I wired in a small rear-facing LED light, and a switch (seems dumb to have a light that is ON when the ignition is on).

It proceeded to blow the 20A headlamp fuse (owners manual says it should be a 10A fuse, but a 20A is what was in there and it blew). I disconnected the wires for now, and put in a new 20A fuse. Time to start over.

What gives? Do I need to put in a relay of some sort, or did a 'technician' in S Korea somehow manage to screw up the wiring during assembly?