CK30 Rear Remote Not Detent Fix

[dfkrug]

Unless I keep lubing and working it my lever detents are too strong. I gotta really keep on it or it gets stuck in position.

How are you lubing it? Opening it up?

Mine is about the same as when new 5 y ago...stronger detents than
I like. I don't let water get into it by washing it more than a couple
times per year or letting it sit out in the rain.

 

[jimmyj]

I take the seat off and clean, then lube with white lithium grease all the external linkages. I have not taken it apart but I suppose that day will come....

 

[mrutkaus]

I take it back. After a week and a half just sitting, the rear remote control has gone back to not staying in either detent!

I don't know what's wrong, I suppose the three little spring loaded ball bearings in the rod coming out of the valve are not big enough, they were surprisingly small, and although I did grease the heck out of them and their surroundings, they have always been on the edge of not working since the factory.

I bet you guys with the firm A/B detents have a valve mfg after mine and that the ball bearings are bigger and/or have stronger springs.

I guess a new valve...

UPDATE 1 hr later: After furious multi-minute back and forth movement of the A/B valve control, it seems to be detenting again. Theory being get the lube in the ball bearings.

Mike

 

[VictorW]

That detent and ball bearing setup must be similar to the float detent position on the fel. There was a past post where some have had a very stiff if not useless detent position on their fel float position. Mine had grown very stiff over several years. After taking the cap off, seeing the ball bearings and minor corrosion due to moisture, I was back in business with a good cleaning and new grease. Maybe the remote valve needs to be added to say yearly service.

 

[mrutkaus]

That yearly service on the remote mechanical parts is probably right.

I've not taken the FEL control apart; the idea is the same I guess, but the remote rod coming out of the remote and pointing toward the front of the tractor has 3 tiny, less than 1/8" dia spring loaded ball bearings in it.

Mike

 

[VictorW]

That yearly service on the remote mechanical parts is probably right.

I've not taken the FEL control apart; the idea is the same I guess, but the remote rod coming out of the remote and pointing toward the front of the tractor has 3 tiny, less than 1/8" dia spring loaded ball bearings in it.

Mike

Mike, The fel detent seems like an easier fix than the remote. Two small screws takes the cap off the front of the control valve under the floorboard. Clean and regrease the shaft that protrudes out of the valve and clean out the cap that retains the three ball bearings then repack with grease. I put a "small" amount of silcone seal on the face of the cap before remounting in hopes of keeping any moisture from entering. I also checked the other cap, it is for the curl control but with no ball bearings, and found it to be in better shape but I still did the same service. I did both in about 15 minutes. Another member in an earlier post mentioned that the cap with bearings isn't cheap to buy so it's well worth the time to perform the service.

Thanks for your info. I'll have to check my remote valves and do some service before thay get bad. Maybe I can keep them from sticking before it's to late and have problems.

 

[MotorSeven]

I have the opposite problem. Unless I keep lubing and working it my lever detents are too strong. I gotta really keep on it or it gets stuck in position.

I have the same problem. My side cylinder control for the Top & Tilt can get stuck in "detent" mode, which overheats everything real quick. This has to be real hard on the hydraulic pump. This was a dealer added control at purchase.

Is there anyway to get rid of those detents so it returns to center like the other original rear remote control?

RD

 

[BJN644]

I have the same problem. My side cylinder control for the Top & Tilt can get stuck in "detent" mode, which overheats everything real quick. This has to be real hard on the hydraulic pump. This was a dealer added control at purchase.

Is there anyway to get rid of those detents so it returns to center like the other original rear remote control?

RD

Yes, you can remove the detent balls, I did this on mine for running the grapple.

 

[MotorSeven]

Can you give me a quick rundown on a "how to"? I have never been inside a hydro valve.....yet.

RD

Sorry, I just read Victor's post, so that should cover it if it is similar.
Any pointers are appreciated, because them balls are outa there asap.

 

[koshari]

i shall be greasing the detent on my rear as its got really stubborn, thanks for the images as i think i have a pretty clear idea. well i will know one way or another later in the day
https://cdn.datamanager.arinet.com/image/KTT/311fee16-64bd-4d5d-9a83-fbc83e7d5732/ExtraLarge

EDIT,
well like others i found watery grease and some rust , also some dirt/solid fragments, when i took it off i lost one of the 3 detent balls as they went flying, so reconnected it without the detent balls for now and ordered some 7/32(5.55mm) loose ball bearings, The well pitted ball I micro-metered up measures 5.2mm. its a bit fidgety bit taking the seat off is half the battle, the 2 screws at the back of the seat are a real pain to remove.

so untill i get some more balls no detent.