CK2610 Does this thing even have high beam lights?

[toukow]

I'm adding LED's on the ROPS and was trying to figure out where to tap a switched leg for the light relay. Anyway, I only have 7 hours on the beast, and do not have a factory service manual yet. I found some schematics on the forum showing the electrical for the CK35 which I inferred would be similar. The CK35 shows a high and low beam relay on the schematic.

SOOOO, Website screenshot attached shows high beams included for the CK2610, no mention of low beams
Owner's manual says replacement headlamps to be 55W/55W, indicating low/high beams

So looking at the switch at 1:00 position and going clockwise:

Light bulb symbol:
Owners manual: Head light OFF, tail light ON
Reality: Not selectable on my switch

OFF: OK, even I get that one

Switch symbol is two lights facing opposite directions from each other
Owners manual: Symbol not defined
Reality: Seems like this replaced the light bulb symbol shown in the owner's manual with no headlights and tail lights on.

Switch symbol is lamp with drooping light lines:
Owners manual: Low beams

So was this a cost cutting measure removing the high beams? The CK35 does have both high and low beams? I hate to take the tractor back due to lack of high beams, but a man's got to draw the line somewhere!

Thanks, Toukow

 

[seville009]

don’t have an answer, but this thread has a manual if that’s of any help

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/388027-kioti-ck2610-3510-4010-manual.html


are there actually bulbs in each headlight? if yes, are both on when you turn the headlights on?

 

[justman777]

I've given this some thought on my NX. Never had high beams on my JD 2305, so don't really miss them or use them on my NX. I do, however, think more light is needed, and the dinky cab lights they put on aren't going to cut it. Think I'm either going to run power from the battery (with an inline fuse) to a switched relay, and then up to a higher powered LED light bar. I could also direct wire from the battery (with an inline fuse) to a switch, as long as the switch can handle the power. The light bars I'm looking at are 55+ watts, so they're going to be hungry. Every wire I've seen coming off the ignition is too small for my comfort level.

 

[Threepoint]

I've given this some thought on my NX. Never had high beams on my JD 2305, so don't really miss them or use them on my NX. I do, however, think more light is needed, and the dinky cab lights they put on aren't going to cut it. Think I'm either going to run power from the battery (with an inline fuse) to a switched relay, and then up to a higher powered LED light bar. I could also direct wire from the battery (with an inline fuse) to a switch, as long as the switch can handle the power. The light bars I'm looking at are 55+ watts, so they're going to be hungry. Every wire I've seen coming off the ignition is too small for my comfort level.

Justman777, hmm. My 2014 NX4510 cab has two pairs of headlights, alternately switched by pushing down/pulling up on the control stalk when in headlight position. I've always taken this to be the high beam/low beam selection.

Agree with you on the 35w halogen front and rear work lights on the NX cab series. I swapped mine out for 45w LED floods, and it's a very nice mod to make. As you know, the OEM front and rear work lights (140w drawing nominally 11-2/3 amps) are all on the same dedicated 15 amp circuit, even though the front and rear are on separate rocker switches. My four 45w work lights together draw a full 15 amps at 12 volts, so the 15 amp fuse would not hold them longer than a few minutes when both front and rear were switched on. Going to a 20 amp fuse in a 15 amp circuit isn't something I'll do. :no: So, when the tractor was in for service, my tech simply popped a third Kioti rocker switch into an empty slot on the same side panel, then ran a 12 awg wire, with inline fuse, directly to the switch from the battery (no relay necessary) to power the rear work lights. Then I used what was originally the rocker switch for the rear work lights as the switch for a pair of 27w LED floods as side lights. The two side light and the two front work lights together total only 144 amps, so are fine on the original 15 amp circuit.

With all six lights going, working at night is no problem.

 

[justman777]

Justman777, hmm. My 2014 NX4510 cab has two pairs of headlights, alternately switched by pushing down/pulling up on the control stalk when in headlight position. I've always taken this to be the high beam/low beam selection.

Agree with you on the 35w halogen front and rear work lights on the NX cab series. I swapped mine out for 45w LED floods, and it's a very nice mod to make. As you know, the OEM front and rear work lights (140w drawing nominally 11-2/3 amps) are all on the same dedicated 15 amp circuit, even though the front and rear are on separate rocker switches. My four 45w work lights together draw a full 15 amps at 12 volts, so the 15 amp fuse would not hold them longer than a few minutes when both front and rear were switched on. Going to a 20 amp fuse in a 15 amp circuit isn't something I'll do. :no: So, when the tractor was in for service, my tech simply popped a third Kioti rocker switch into an empty slot on the same side panel, then ran a 12 awg wire, with inline fuse, directly to the switch from the battery (no relay necessary) to power the rear work lights. Then I used what was originally the rocker switch for the rear work lights as the switch for a pair of 27w LED floods as side lights. The two side light and the two front work lights together total only 144 amps, so are fine on the original 15 amp circuit.

With all six lights going, working at night is no problem.

Same with my 2018 on the headlights. Just meant my JD 2305 didn't have high beams, and I don't use them on the NX. Possibly because I forget they're there. :laughing:

Anyway, I replaced my factory halogen cab worklights with LEDs. I forget what wattage they are, but I don't think they're 45 watts...probably less. They're not all that bright to me, and I have trouble seeing to the side when turning. May add some side lights to compensate.

 

[Bikenstein]

My CK2610 switch is the same as yours. Turn once and the panel light comes on, twice and the headlight comes on also. No hi-lo selection as the manual states. There is no way I would take mine back for that reason, but I am going to let the dealer know. Thanks for pointing that out. The manual also states of the horn button, "pressing the switch sounds the horn" but not on the CK2016. I'm more put off by the horn being optional than the high/low beam. Otherwise it's an exceptional tractor for its price.

 

[toukow]

My CK2610 switch is the same as yours. Turn once and the panel light comes on, twice and the headlight comes on also. No hi-lo selection as the manual states. There is no way I would take mine back for that reason, but I am going to let the dealer know. Thanks for pointing that out. The manual also states of the horn button, "pressing the switch sounds the horn" but not on the CK2016. I'm more put off by the horn being optional than the high/low beam. Otherwise it's an exceptional tractor for its price.

I was just being facetious about the 'taking it back' part. Should have used a smiley. I thought you were mistaken on the horn, and went and tested mine as I did not request it. I do have one, but looked at their website and you're right, the horn is an option. Wow!

From my research on LED's for both the tractor and indoor growing, there are few products where manufacturers practice such a level of deception; it's ridiculous and fraudulent and worse for the indoor lights. I bring this up because if there is a question of switch ratings being on the cusp based on claimed wattage, I'd buy the lights and test them to be sure.

I think the higher priced units are more accurate in stating their wattage. Here's my test values using a Fluke DVM for the Auxbeams I purchased off of Amazon for your reference.

Voltage 13.6 VDC
18 watt claimed, 1.02 A = 13.9 watts or 77% of claimed
35 watt claimed, 2.17 A= 29.5 watts or 84% of claimed
54 watt claimed, 2.48 A = 33.7 Watts or 62% of claimed

Toukow

 

[Bikenstein]

I think the higher priced units are more accurate in stating their wattage. Here's my test values using a Fluke DVM for the Auxbeams I purchased off of Amazon for your reference.

Voltage 13.6 VDC
18 watt claimed, 1.02 A = 13.9 watts or 77% of claimed
35 watt claimed, 2.17 A= 29.5 watts or 84% of claimed
54 watt claimed, 2.48 A = 33.7 Watts or 62% of claimed

Toukow

Thanks for the info. Shoulda known you were jesting, guess I'm spendin too much time alone since I retired. Flukes are best. I gotta find mine, thanks for jogging my memory. I've been using cheap free analogs from Harbor Freight for a couple of years.

 

[toukow]

Thanks for the info. Shoulda known you were jesting, guess I'm spendin too much time alone since I retired. Flukes are best. I gotta find mine, thanks for jogging my memory. I've been using cheap free analogs from Harbor Freight for a couple of years.

I retired for two years, and then returned to work because of the money they offered. I was MUCH happier retired and look forward to returning to it soon! I like working on my tractor far more than doing electrical arc flash analysis (OK, I guess that's not saying much, is it?).

As a total aside, I've changed my attitude about digital meters a bit. I think the electronics have come so far over the years, that even the cheap stuff is great. And that includes stereo equipment too, as I just put a system in a 76 Cadillac Eldorado for $400. I told the grand kids they'd be better off buying six $30 meters and having one in every nook,cranny, and vehicle than a single Fluke at home in the tool box when they need it. Most of us aren't concerned with 1.5% measurement variance (likely much less), and the reliability is still decent. Perhaps your experiences have been different.

Hope you're enjoying retirement, Toukow

 

[VTland2clear]

My CK3510 has two wires and connectors that come out at the base of the ROPS, near the fuel tank. These are factory, and power is supplied when the ignition is on, I wired a switch for work lights that I mounted on the ROPS!