Rear Blade Choosing a rear blade - need advice

[ereilly]

I am ready to buy and I have two rear blades to choose from at my local dealers. Both are similar in quality. Any words of wisdon to help me make a choice? My uses is to maintain a driveway in So. Oregon. Wet winters, bone dry summers. Need to keep ditches open and do some grading. I have a mile of graveled road (compacted shale) and another 1/2 mile of forest road with native soil just cut in this year during Oregon wildfires. My tractor is an Allis Chalmers labeled Japanese build, diesel, 21 HP @ PTO. It is 4 WD and is almost 5 feet across the rear tires. I am looking at a 6 foot blade.

Both Blades are 1/4 inch steel. Both have 14 inch moldboards and can offset 12 inches.

1) Bush Hog model 35 - 290 lbs, 5 forward positions up to 30°, 3 reverse positions up to 15 deg., tilt 15 deg. up or down, moldboard is 1/2 x 3 inches - price $425

2) Landpride RBT-1572 - 267 lbs, 7 Fwd. Up to 45 deg., 5 Rev. up to 30 deg., tilt 5 positions, up to 30 deg. left or right, moldboard is 1/2" x 6 inches - price $495

Landpride is more versatile - more positions including the greater 30 deg tilt - $70 more expensive

Bush Hog is 23 lbs heavier and $70 cheaper

I will probably buy or make endcaps for grading. Is the 23lbs of weight enough to make a difference? One of my primary needs is to get the ditches on the road opened up. Will the extra 30 deg help with that?

Thanks for any ideas.

Ed

 

[snowman]

You can alway add weight to the blades by attaching blocks, etc. to it.

You have to be careful about getting a blade that's too big. A smaller blade (width wise) may do a better job of grooming and cutting. I have a 5 foot blade on mine (21 hp engine) and it easily gets bogged down (my tires spin) when I'm scarpping dirt, because it digs in so well. Use it to clear snow off of a paved driveway; works great.

 

[hazmat]

You want the blade to cover your tracks when angled

5' 30 Deg = 52"
5' 45 deg = 42"
6' 30 deg = 62"
6' 45 deg = 51"

Food for thought. The 23# isn't a big difference. If price is a concern look at First Choice. I have a 15 series landpride (no tilt) blade & an Aerator from First Choice. Quality is the SAME. Paint is nicer on the first choice.

I run a 5' blade with 18 gross & 14.5 PTO HP. at 45 deg it doesn't cover my tracks, but at 30 deg it does. I only use 45 deg if I am trying to move alot of material to the side. I don't ditch with it so no advice there.

GET SKID SHOES If you are going to plow snow.

 

[Justaplain]

Maybe for that much road you would want to look into a truck{tractor} drawn road grader. These used to come in small sizes 6 footers or so. Made in wis. I think. I had one I used to grade a track for horses, worked great. Check with your town highway dept about a source. The problem with a rear blade only is keeping a grade with the short wheel base of your tractor. bcs

 

[hazmat]

check here for pros and cons of different implements for road maintence <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=projects&Number=184049&page=&view=&sb=&o=&fpart=1&vc=1> Best Implement for Gravel Drive</A>

There are a couple links to the graders that Justaplain refers to.

 

[Corm]

I have a tractor similar to size and capabilities to yours. I have a 7' rear blade. I have a 1500' gravel drive that I maintain with it, summer and winter. It has a 12" offset feature, no tilt (other than what I have using the adjustable verticle arm on my 3 pt).

Based on my experience, I'd recommend the versatile features of the LandPride. The extra degrees of swivel would be real nice. Mine isn't nearly as adjustable, and there have been many times when I wish it was... I'd go with the 7 foot blade, as it is real important to be wider than the tractor even at sever angles of swivel. The offset feature is something you will probably not use very often, but it is real handy when the situation calls for it. I don't feel the extra weight is a consideration between the two. More important than the weight (I feel) is how you have the blade adjusted. The length of the top link makes a huge difference in how big a 'cut' it takes, and it will take a while (at least it did for me) to get the hang of adjusting the toplink to get the blade to do what you want it to do. Trial and error.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

As far a skid shoes are concerned, I had them on my blade, and took them off. I couldn't get them to work for me at all. All they did was leave two furrows behind the blade. Your experience may differ... Good Luck with whatever you decide to do.

Corm

 

[Egon]

Go for the one with the heaviest cutting edge. It will be stiffer.

Egon

 

[JohnMiller3]

Monroe Tufline ~ $450-500.

SERIES GB1 Tractor Range 20-40 H.P.
GB1-60 — 5 FT. — 386 LBS.
GB1-72 — 6 FT. — 403 LBS.
GB1-84 — 7 FT. — 438 LBS.
SPECIFICATIONS
• Hitch-Category 1
• Moldboard Height - 17"
• Moldboard Thickness - 3/16" With support bracing
• Cutting Edge - 1/2 x 6 reversible -1080 heat treated material
• Angle adjustments - 7 positions right or left
• Offset adjustments - 2 positions right or left
• Tilt adjustments - 15-30 degrees right or left
• Park Stand - Standard
• Skid Shoes - optional
For about $450-500… see if this is available in your area by Monroe Tufline… this is their “light duty”… for a much better value for your money… /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
(check LandPride & BushHog's web site medium duty units and you'll see similar)

 

[cj7]

I would go a little wider than the tractor. I have a 5' Woods that tilts. Love the tilt feature. The blade could be a little wider though.

 

[JRP]

Now for some different thoughts:

1. If you don't have a quick hitch, you might some day. Consider getting a blade that already conforms to the ASAE Cat I quich hitch specifications.

2. Consider how high your tractor 4pt lifts up. If you can, try both blades on your tractor to see how the lift, connect.

My 8' ford blade has pins that are quite high. when raised, it only lifys about 7" above the ground.