CalG
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2011
- Messages
- 5,911
- Location
- vermont
- Tractor
- Hurlimann 435, Fordson E27n, Bolens HT-23, Kubota B7200, Kubota B2601
I've run substantial amounts of material through a MacKissic 3TPH Chipper shreader over the past 10 years or more.
Lately it has started to clog/choke it's self on fresh stringy branches and vines. The difficulty appears to be located at the discharge opening where the chipped material is transferred to the hammer mill shredder chamber. Of course, that is the only visible port to evaluate the condition. The binding on choked material becomes so severe that the rotor is stopped and the tripple V drive belt just squeals. A pry bar, to reverse the chipper wheel rotation, along with hand removal of the offending material is needed to clear difficulty.
I thought this condition may be due to dulling knives, so I pulled them and restored the sharpness, as I have done on several occaisions previously (I am not unfamiliar with a sharp edge) Setting the anvil gap as well. (pass a dime, stop a nickel)
The machine is an absolute HOG on big wood with sharp knives!
However, this sharpening has not prevented the binding when the brushy hardwood tops are pulled in. Conifir tops and brush is even worse! That really got my frustration up during a clean up session around the place yesterday.
It appears there is room enough for inadequatly processed (chipped) material to collect in the perfery of the rotor chamber. The front cover and support bearing was pulled to facilitate knife removal for sharpening, and it appears that there is as much as 3/8" clearance between the rotor and it's housing.
I browsed a few internet videos showing similar rotory chippers and observed that some versions have small "nubbs" on the rotor perphery, perhaps to clear such material collection.
I'm thinking to add a couple of nubbs to the perphery of the rotor with hard facing rod using my "buzz box" welder. Just to leave a nasty sharp edged "boil" to keep the vegetive matter in a state of agitation.
Pulling the 80# rotor from the main shaft is a real work! I've done it once, and would prefer not to do so again. Though I have thought to mill a pocket, drill and tap for a carbide insert.
My luck would have such effort rewarded with a cut through chamber due to "something" I had not considered.
Anyone got any better ideas? I'm all ears!
Lately it has started to clog/choke it's self on fresh stringy branches and vines. The difficulty appears to be located at the discharge opening where the chipped material is transferred to the hammer mill shredder chamber. Of course, that is the only visible port to evaluate the condition. The binding on choked material becomes so severe that the rotor is stopped and the tripple V drive belt just squeals. A pry bar, to reverse the chipper wheel rotation, along with hand removal of the offending material is needed to clear difficulty.
I thought this condition may be due to dulling knives, so I pulled them and restored the sharpness, as I have done on several occaisions previously (I am not unfamiliar with a sharp edge) Setting the anvil gap as well. (pass a dime, stop a nickel)
The machine is an absolute HOG on big wood with sharp knives!
However, this sharpening has not prevented the binding when the brushy hardwood tops are pulled in. Conifir tops and brush is even worse! That really got my frustration up during a clean up session around the place yesterday.
It appears there is room enough for inadequatly processed (chipped) material to collect in the perfery of the rotor chamber. The front cover and support bearing was pulled to facilitate knife removal for sharpening, and it appears that there is as much as 3/8" clearance between the rotor and it's housing.
I browsed a few internet videos showing similar rotory chippers and observed that some versions have small "nubbs" on the rotor perphery, perhaps to clear such material collection.
I'm thinking to add a couple of nubbs to the perphery of the rotor with hard facing rod using my "buzz box" welder. Just to leave a nasty sharp edged "boil" to keep the vegetive matter in a state of agitation.
Pulling the 80# rotor from the main shaft is a real work! I've done it once, and would prefer not to do so again. Though I have thought to mill a pocket, drill and tap for a carbide insert.
My luck would have such effort rewarded with a cut through chamber due to "something" I had not considered.
Anyone got any better ideas? I'm all ears!