Price Check cheap vs expensive; longevity vs price

[llitten]

Ok, I am giving up on re-fixing an older craftsman lt1000 mower, over 12 years old. I mow a lawn aprox 1 acre in size. I would like the mower to handle hills, meaning able to pull itself up with ease.

The Crux of the question:

Do I, purchase a 800-1200 mower, with a lifespan of say 5 years, possibly more.
or purchase a mower of say 3000-4000 with a supposed life span of 10 years, possibly more. (It would seem more logical to pick up the cheaper model)

The mower at the top of the list for 3000-4000 range is the john deere x300 series. is this mower able to easily outlast the cheaper box store models?
What am I getting for the extra 2000 that the cheapies is lacking?

I am ready to be sold on the bigger models...but I am not sure if I am getting anything more out of spending my money.

thanks.

 

[flusher]

Ok, I am giving up on re-fixing an older craftsman lt1000 mower, over 12 years old. I mow a lawn aprox 1 acre in size. I would like the mower to handle hills, meaning able to pull itself up with ease.

The Crux of the question:

Do I, purchase a 800-1200 mower, with a lifespan of say 5 years, possibly more.
or purchase a mower of say 3000-4000 with a supposed life span of 10 years, possibly more. (It would seem more logical to pick up the cheaper model)

The mower at the top of the list for 3000-4000 range is the john deere x300 series. is this mower able to easily outlast the cheaper box store models?
What am I getting for the extra 2000 that the cheapies is lacking?

I am ready to be sold on the bigger models...but I am not sure if I am getting anything more out of spending my money.

thanks.

I assume we are talking standard riding mowers, not ZTRs.

If so, then the prices and lifespans you've cited answer your question--go with the cheaper mowers, assuming these have the features you need.

I'm on the 5th season using my Huskee riding mower that I got new from Tractor Supply--42" cut, 18hp B&S engine, Eaton hydrostatic transmission, mow in reverse capability. Cost:$899. I bought a 5-year service contract for $125. Used it once for an electrical problem during the 4th season---no cost to me. I mow about an acre.

 

[llitten]

That is my thinking too.... the cheap ones should last me at least half as long, if not as long as the more expensive models....

still waiting for someone to sell me into the more expensive mowers.

(yes, not looking at the zero turn models, not great for hills i read)

 

[rexcramer]

The expensive models should last 20 years, if not more, not 10, unless you are mowing commercially. Thats the only reason for buying one

 

[JoelD]

Being mostly a tractor forum this may not be the best place for a lawnmower post. But here's my thoughts. If you maintain your equipment, keep it out of the elments, change the oil, stay off of slopes if the motor does not have an oil pump, etc. I'm of the opinion, that if you are just mowing, I would say cheap should work out fine.

My two cents.
Joel

 

[Logan]

I bought a JD LT166 a few years ago for $2800, about twice or three times the price of box store models at the time. I have had lots of problems recently and next time I'll go cheap.

 

[greenmule]

Yeah,thats the question alright. And to make it even worse,think they make the cheap ones cheaper each year. I got two over 15 year old cheap ones that run fine still,bet the new cheap ones wouldn't last half that long.

Bought a new one this year,tried to not buy box store,but couldn't go over 3 grand,bought a LT 200 snapper,but at this point can't tell you much other than it works fine,but one from box store for a grand less would probably be working just fine now as well
I f you wanted to spend 5-7 grand,now would say at that range you are for sure getting a better mower.

 

[chh]

I went to the upper end of the "cheap" line last fall. I bought a Cub Cadet 1050 for about $1500 on clearance at Tractor Supply. Hydrostat, 24 hp engine and a 50 inch cut. The start switch can be turned to allow cutting in reverse, it had been so long since I had a riding mower I didn't even know that you couldn't mow in reverse without it until I started shopping. I had heard the same thing about zero turns on slopes and really could not see spending 4 or 5 grand(or more) for one. The 1050 does fine on the slopes in my yard and has plenty of power.
I was used to using a MF 1433V and a finish mower. To MF was worth too much to keep just as a lawn mower(IMO) when I needed a bigger tractor for hay work. So the MF was traded in on a 70 hp Montana and I got the Cub Cadet for the yard. The CC is more manuverable than the MF/finish mower but takes a smaller cut. Ask me in 5 years if I should have kept the little MF instead.

 

[buck12]

I prefer to buy a better grade slightly used mower. I got a great deal on a used JD GT235 a few years ago that has severed me well except the plastic tends to break and break. My father just got a really good deal on a JD 425AWS (guess what the plastic had been replaced). The box store mowers will cut grass but seem to have more problems (many don't have grease fittings). My neighbor has already replaced one or two spindles and a starter on a fairly new JD Home Depot model.

 

[WalterK]

I prefer to buy a better grade slightly used mower. I got a great deal on a used JD GT235 a few years ago that has severed me well .

Ouch!!!

 

[Soundguy]

I think with -normal- routine maintenance. that 800$ mower should have that 10yr lifespan.

I have an 800$ murray rider mower ( 12.5hp / 42" cut ) that is now just months shy of 13ys old... it's had about 5 sets of blades and a belt.. and yearly oil changes and air filter cleanings.. and a couple spark plugs.

have pluged a couple tires... pulled the crb 1 time to clean it... um.. changed the battery in it 2 times... and had to adjust the mowing deck on it a couple times.

last blade change i notice the spindle threads are a lil worn.. so dressed them..

last year noticed engine to mower fram screws were becomming loose.. so i tightened them...

so far..seems fine.. i don;t 'expect' to be replacing her anytime soon.. 15 ys looks like a real possibility at this point.. she starts just as fast as ever.. has same powr... tires are balding but hold air...

I don't baby her either.. I've backed into things.. hit fences.. rocks.. etc...

have had to put new grip tape on the running boards since the old tape wore thru.. etc...

soundguy

Ok, I am giving up on re-fixing an older craftsman lt1000 mower, over 12 years old. I mow a lawn aprox 1 acre in size. I would like the mower to handle hills, meaning able to pull itself up with ease.

The Crux of the question:

Do I, purchase a 800-1200 mower, with a lifespan of say 5 years, possibly more.
or purchase a mower of say 3000-4000 with a supposed life span of 10 years, possibly more. (It would seem more logical to pick up the cheaper model)

The mower at the top of the list for 3000-4000 range is the john deere x300 series. is this mower able to easily outlast the cheaper box store models?
What am I getting for the extra 2000 that the cheapies is lacking?

I am ready to be sold on the bigger models...but I am not sure if I am getting anything more out of spending my money.

thanks.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Depends on a number of factors....

How often will you use it?
How hard of service will it see?
How important is reliability further into the life span?
How much do you value RESALE VALUE?

I've got a 27 year old Cub Cadet 682 17hp hydro that's mowed anywhere from 2-1/2 acres per cutting (X 20 to 25 times per year) to recent years cutting more than 4 acres per cut. It's FAR more reliable than an average "cheap" mower once it would have reached 4 or 5 years of use in simular conditions. It's value (based on actual selling prices of simular mowers) is around 75% of original purchase price. (And it's STILL going strong...NO plans on replacing any time soon) VERY doubtful 4 or 5 cheap mowers would have outlasted this ONE mower. Better chance those cheap mowers would have not been able to be sold to recover 75% of original purchase price. It's had the typical "belts, filters, oil changes, blades replaced, batteries, ect" and a couple mower deck spindles replaced, but NO major components in all those years. The ONLY "hard part" that failed is a tie rod end.

I've got my dads old mower, a mid-range (price) John Deere 265 17hp hydrostat, early '90's model, that's just starting to have reliability issues. It's seen roughly half the use of the Cadet.

My daughter and son-in-law have a 7 year old Yardman 18hp gear. (What I'd consider as a low end price range mower) For the last year and a half, they've been borrowing the Deere 265 quite frequently as the Yardman has been having "issues".

Don't automatically relate "good" (or great) with expensive. Not so.... Expensive only means expensive..... But really high quality mowers are not cheap.

Some of us like durable, "one time" purchases, where others like frequent purchases of disposables. Who's to say EITHER is right or wrong.

 

[Stargazer]

I say go the cheap route. New years eve 1993 went to Monkey wards and got a MTD 600 with 46" deck front snow blower chains/weights and bagger for under 2K. About 2 years later they had a $10 down hold till May 1 deal so ordered extact same mtd 600($900?). Go out in April no mower, they had a last year model(same) so got it for $750. Removed deck and put snow blower on (royal pain is rear). For about the last 15 years it has mowed (#1)
about a acre ever week or so and and anyother 2 acres 7-10 per year as well as first 12 years 5 blocks of sidewalks/1 block of street of snow (apx 12X/yr) My bx-23 now does the 2 acres/snow but still 1 acre/wk on mtd. Have had to replace one front axcle asmbly and one hub and idler pulley on deck. Other normal stuff like blades/battery/belts/front tires/filter/oils. When monkeny wards went belly up few years ago bought a front blade and belts/deck blades. When Central tractor did same another grass catcher front blade belts/blades weights/chains. Less than .10 on dollar. Figure about $3400 in all. Still have 1 new bagger front blade and deck. #1 is starting to smoke/burn oil but still less than qt/year might have to re-engine it when it dies! BUT I DON'T THINK THE NEW STUFF WILL LAST AS LONG AS THESE.

Pat R

 

[Soundguy]

BUT I DON'T THINK THE NEW STUFF WILL LAST AS LONG AS THESE.

Pat R

Now that's a good point.. I don't think cheap stuff built today is as good as cheap stuff built 10-20 ys ago... seems like every year.. stuff gets built 'worse'.. and economy no longer equates with cheap.. much like expensive does not automatically mean quality. ( good point there FWJ )

soundguy

 

[LBrown59]

I prefer to buy a better grade slightly used mower. I got a great deal on a used JD GT235 a few years ago that has severed me well except the plastic tends to break and break.

Ouch!! !

OUCH What?

 

[jwstewar]

OUCH What?

Exactly what it means, the post says it severed him. Sounds like it would hurt to me too.

 

[LBrown59]

I say go the cheap route. New years eve 1993 went to Monkey wards and got a MTD 600 with 46" deck front snow blower chains/weights and bagger for under 2K. About 2 years later they had a $10 down hold till May 1 deal so ordered extact same mtd 600($900?). Go out in April no mower, they had a last year model(same) so got it for $750. Removed deck and put snow blower on (royal pain is rear). For about the last 15 years it has mowed (#1)
about a acre ever week or so and and anyother 2 acres 7-10 per year as well as first 12 years 5 blocks of sidewalks/1 block of street of snow (apx 12X/yr) My bx-23 now does the 2 acres/snow but still 1 acre/wk on mtd. Have had to replace one front axcle asmbly and one hub and idler pulley on deck. Other normal stuff like blades/battery/belts/front tires/filter/oils. When monkeny wards went belly up few years ago bought a front blade and belts/deck blades. When Central tractor did same another grass catcher front blade belts/blades weights/chains. Less than .10 on dollar. Figure about $3400 in all. Still have 1 new bagger front blade and deck. #1 is starting to smoke/burn oil but still less than qt/year might have to re-engine it when it dies! BUT I DON'T THINK THE NEW STUFF WILL LAST AS LONG AS THESE.

Pat R

Bought a new 1995 Monkey Wards MTD:
Worst tractor Buying Mistake I ever made.
It was a real piece of crap .
What a lemon!

 

[ChuckinNH]

I think that a lot depends on the ground that you are mowing. Mine is still rough, kind of converted cow pasture though I'm working on it slowly. I had a Craftsman mower, and the rough yard destroyed the steering linkages in about a year. I repaired it, and then traded for a belt drive Simplicity the middlle of the next season. I replaced the steering linkage once in that in 1500 hours of use on the same land. I did take care of that Simplicity (Landlord 12.5 hp) and the splash, and paddle B&S engine was still fine when I traded it for my current Legacy, and I got about $1400 in trade for it if I remember correctly ten years ago. Like any tool, there is something to be said for having a good mower that is enjoyable to use. I've spent over 2000 hours mowing, and puttering in my yard with GT's and I appreciate ones that are comfortable, and strong enough to handle the job easily. If you have a smooth lawn, and take care of your things, any mower will last a long time. BTW, I changed the oil in that first Simplicity every 25 hours of use, and took good care of the filters. It was burning no oil when I traded it. So much for disposable.

 

[Stargazer]

Funny mine are mostly green with gray plastic hood. Why would you buy a yellow tractor???
#1 has even been rolled twice when I was going places I didn't/shouldn't needed to be going.


Pat R

 

[chh]

what?

Read it again.

He wrote severed(as in, to cut off) not served. Your making too big a deal over a little joke.