Changing Transmission Fluid

   / Changing Transmission Fluid #1  

qbc3

Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2000
Messages
41
Location
morrow, ohio
Tractor
Lastec 3372/B1700/B2150
I have a Kubota 2150HST. I'm changing my hydraulic/transmission fluid from UDT to Amsoil. Currently my front end loader, a 350A, is not attached to my tractor. Do I need to hook up my front end loader to my tractor before I drain the UDT? Also, the tractor is listed as having a capacity of 19 quarts. Will my 20 quart pail of fluid be enough for the tractor and front end loader? Any other tips to keep in mind while doing the fluid change would be appreciated.
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #2  
If the cylinders on the loader are retracted all the way, there's nothing to be gained by connecting it before you change, but they're probably not. The cylinders hold a lot less fluid when they're retracted, so that's the way you should set them when you change.

I doubt seriously that your pail will hold it. And if it does, you won't be able to move it without spilling it all over you. You could drain half of it, replace the plug, then do the rest on a second drain.

Mark
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #3  
Speaking of draining lots of fluid and dealing with it...

You can also use one of those RV transport tanks, it's like a Big flat gas can, designed for an RV'er to drain some of their holding tanks into and carrying or rolling (some have wheels) to the dump site if they don't want to move the RV.

Personally I think that's disgusting! I just move the Rv but I've seen people using them and I think that would be a good way to transport and safety dump trans fluid, or as mentioned, lots of buckets. As one who once thought he was brainy to find a container that held it all, I can agree...dealing with multiple buckets each with 3 gallons is FAR easier than one container with 10 with no way to lift it or move it easily! And putting the plug in while the oil is coming out? UGH.

I'd also suggest some of those cheapie plastic gloves they sell everywhere, the throw away kind, keeps all that lovely hot engine oil off the skin, up the arm etc [smile}
del

[email]oldcarparts@mygarage.com [/email]
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Sorry Mark. My second question was relative to whether 20 quarts of fluid would be enough to fill to capacity, both the tractor (19 quarts) and the front end loader. I was unsure how much additional fluid would be required for the front end loader. Thanks
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #5  
qbc3 - Ooops. I must not have been paying attention. It'll be very close, I suspect. None of the fluid in the loader will actually come out when you drain the tractor, so it should be fine. But the reason I say it'll be close is primarily the margin for error in the manufacturer's specs. They're sometimes not very accurate.

Mark
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #6  
My suggestion is plan how you're going to get the oil into the tractor. Balancing a 20 liter pail on top of the transmission for long enough to pour the oil through a funnel isn't easy. Filling the front axle is even worse. I have a pail pump for the job myself.
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I guess I can pick up a pail pump at NAPA or Quality Farm and Fleet. I guess it is standard operating procedure to replace the rear suction pipe O rings when cleaning the fluid strainer, isn't it? Also, I notice that there are two fluid refill ports. Do I just alternate back and forth between the ports as I add my new fluid? And pardon my ignorance, but why are there two refill ports? (Thank goodness for this forum because, as you can see, I'm mechanically challenged in a major way.) :>)
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #8  
gbc3, replacing the O-rings certainly won't hurt anything, but I didn't (on either Kubota I've owned). I even bought spares, but was just careful not to damage the original ones and I've never had one leak. And I don't know about two refill ports since I only have one.

Incidentally, my shop manual tells about cleaning the strainers, and shows the O-rings. It does not mention changing them when you clean the strainer, it simply says, "When reassembling, be careful not to damage the parts."

Bird<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Bird on 7/30/00 02:05 PM.</FONT></P>
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Just as a precaution, I thought I might check to make sure I have the right Amsoil fluid for my hydraulic/transmision system. In the catalog it is listed as ATH-05. (I think the 05 refers to the 5 gallon container size.) Its found under "Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic/Transmission Fluid" and has a rating of: ISO 46, SAE 30. Is this the correct Amsoil fluid for my tractor?
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #10  
gbc3 - Yes. That's what I use. And, more importantly, what Amsoil lists as the correct fluid.

Mark
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks Mark. I guess that's all the info I need to make the change.
Gene
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid #12  
qbc3,
I suppose (hope?) that you have a B2150 manual of some sort. If not, pay attention to a IMPORTANT NOTE in the B2150 operator's manual:

"Never operate the tractor immediately after changing the transmission fluid and the transmission filter. Keep the engine at medium speed for a few minutes to prevent the damage to the transmission."

The manual shows a picture with both fill ports highlighted, and instructs to fill through the "port" if the transmission fluid is low. When I changed my B2150's fluid I pumped from the 5-gallon bucket through a hand pump ($25?).

Hope this is helpful.
 
   / Changing Transmission Fluid
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Kelvin,
I do have an owner's manual and did notice the caution regarding not operating the tractor immediately after refilling with fluid. Thanks for the reminder, it could have been an expensive mistake. As to the dual ports, it really doesn't specify which one to use, so I guess I'll just alternate between the two, one gallon at a time. Also, using a pail pump makes a lot of sense, and will save time and aggravation in the long run. Thanks again.
 

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