Changing out Power Steering Fluid on Ram

[thatguy]

I am in the process of changing out my power steering fluid on my Dodge Ram 2500 truck.. I have been sucking out 6 oz or so at a time and then refilling. Then I run it for a few days and lather, rinse, repeat.. So far I have ran thru 2 quarts of PS fluid and it is still VERY dark looking (dark enough you cant see sunlight thru it)..

It is a 2002 truck and the PS fluid has never been changed. I am going back with a synthetic because in low temps the brakes/ps really growl until it warms up..

Roughly how many quarts do I need to exchange to get mostly new stuff? Any ideas?

Thanks

Brian

 

[WantedWolf]

do you know it was synthetic in the system originally? If not flush at least the steering gear, its not to bad from below to get the 2 lines off, but inspect the old washers or just use new washers when you put lines back.

You must be getting close though, I might not be much help because my new steering gear came prefilled but I only added 1 quart after installing it.

The gear case couldnt hold more that 2qt itself

 

[thatguy]

It was not synthetic in it originally.. During really cold weather (at least for around here) it really thickens up and groans badly..

Brian

 

[charlz]

I sort of attempted this on my wife's Honda. I jacked up the front and put it on jackstands. Then disconnected the return line to the reservoir and re-routed it to a milk jug. I then plugged off where the return went into the reservoir and filled with clean fluid. What I had read was to do all this, then start the car and turn the steering lock-to-lock at least once, until you get more or less clear fluid out. Well, the PS pump is a hyd pump, it went through that new fluid about as fast as I could start the engine. and the Honda stuff is $$$$$ I used about 3 pints and the fluid, while looking better, is still pretty dark.

If you could rig up a gallon or so reservoir and be quick about the steering you might make it

 

[thatguy]

I finally sorta/kinda found an answer.. It appears that the steering held about 1 qt, then I found an excel spreadsheet from 'bob is the oil guy' showing the percentage of mix you get with each flush (designed for drain and replace of transmission flushing)..

it appears that using 2 qtrs of new fluid (replacing 6oz at a time) will give me about a 90% new fluid after 11 exchanges.

Brian

 

[carpenter383]

I've always just used ATF in power steering pumps it's cheaper.

 

[thatguy]

I've always just used ATF in power steering pumps it's cheaper.

My manual calls for PS fluid and it also said specifically that AFT was not to be used.. starting in 2003 and later I think they use ATF though..

Brian

 

[automech]

most Chryslers and Dodges have been switching over to atf +4, but you should check the dealer service bulletin for power steering fluid usagle for specific model. I remove the return line at the pump and plumb into catch jug as stated in an earlier post. But I disable the ignition so the vehicle does not start. I have a assistant crank the vehicle, and pour some lean fluid into the reservoir as fast as it is pumped into the catch jug. I don't recommend running the engine and letting the pump run dry, as the pump vanes can be damaged/scored easily. Usually a couple quarts will be enough.

 

[DieselPower]

What, all you tractor guy's here and no one uses UTF? I have been using high quality UTF as power steering fluid for years. It has a better additive package than regular power steering fluid and is really good at quieting down noisy pumps. ATF also makes a good replacement for power steering fluid. All are hydraulic fluids, some with better additive packages than others. I personally prefer UTF over ATF because of it's slightly heavier viscosity.

 

[masscity]

I have a 97 Dodge 2500 diesel. I use a turkey baster with a clamp on it or a differential filler (looks like a grease gun).

I can get about 11 oz out of it at a time. I use Valvoline 50/50 dino & synthetic power steering fluid.

This has worked for me to take the groan out of the power steering.

 

[Highbeam]

Sucking out 6 oz and refilling will never get a flush done. It's the old story of always walking halfway to work, stopping and then going half way again, you'll never get there.

Still better than nothing though.

A better solution is to remove the return line and flush the system properly. This should be the most effective way to get the old fluid out and the new in.

I've got to do this on my ford diesel that uses the PS system for brakes and steering and has a cooler and everything. It smells burnt, looks burnt, and is ready to changed. It uses ATF fortunately so it will be a cheap flush.

If the system really pumps down that fast would it be possible to remove the belt and spin the PS pump by hand?

 

[charlz]

I re-attempted this this other day while replacing the front struts (one finally started leaking oil after 90,000 miles).

I drained the reservoir and disconnected the return line and routed it into a soda bottle. The car was already up on jack stands so I cycled the steering back and forth by hand with the engine off many times. This actually appeared to get rid of most of the fluid in the rack. Once I could no longer get anything out of it I plugged off the return port on the reservoir and filled it with clean fluid. I started the car and let it pump the clean fluid through the cooler etc. and into the jug until it looked clean. Reconnected all the lines, filled with clean fluid and stared it again. I then cycled the rack, topped off the reservoir, repeat etc until it was all full. Fluid looked pretty good. I noticed after a few days of driving it was a little darker but attribute that to old oil still in a few places etc. Still looks much much better than it did when I started (the first attempt and this attempt).

 

[Highbeam]

Good deal CHarlz. So how fast did your pump pump out the old fluid? Geyser like or pretty slowly?

 

[charlz]

Good deal CHarlz. So how fast did your pump pump out the old fluid? Geyser like or pretty slowly?

When I started the car it took about 4 or 5 seconds to pretty much drain the reservoir. I think if I were doing this with a (relatively) cheap fluid like ATF I'd just figure out a way to rig like a gallon reservoir, start the car, turn the wheel lock to lock once or twice each way, turn off the engine and check the fluid color. Might vary with the capacity of the particular car but I think that would about get it done.