Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400

   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400 #1  

Dmacleo

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2020
Messages
1,531
Location
Etna, Maine
Tractor
2010 MF GC2400 Owner, 2012 MF1532 User
first, do yourself a favor and remove the hood for clearance. then remove the whole air filter assembly. I had a 9/16 on ratchet and that worked but prob a 14mm. the airbox clamp was 10mm.

1 remove-hood-air-cleaner-assy.jpg

Then remove the bracket that supports hood rod, engine side of muffler. there are 4 bolts (iirc 12mm) from bracket to muffler.
on exhaust pipe side are 3 bolts, 1 for the pipe clamp to bracket and 2 holding the bracket into exhaust manifold utilizing the manifold holes. those 2 bolts are 14mm.

3 2 bolts are manifold bolts 14mm.jpg

there is one bolt on rear of engine that holds the bracket to the lifting eye on engine.
then remove buss bar, small nuts are 7mm

4 remove-buss-bar 7mm.jpg

then pull the plugs themselves. I used 12mm 1/4inch drive.

5 remove-glow-plugs-12mm.jpg


then cover all holes up because the frigging package that USPS says will be delivered today could not move 50 miles in 38+ hours. oh well its sitting 12 miles from me and will be here tomorrow.
hood off gives me chance to fix dent in hood as well as move upper rad hose a touch to prevent rubbing on air filter housing.
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400 #2  
I wrapped a piece of old hose over the radiator hose where it hits the air box.
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I wrapped a piece of old hose over the radiator hose where it hits the air box.
I debated that but my hose could easily slide onto t-stat housing 3/4 inch with no issues and gave lot of room. speaking of that am gonna order both top and bottom hoses to have on hand. got spare belt, will have new glow plugs plus 2 older working ones, spare (used but cleaned up) throttle cable. 2 hoses are something I should have on hand as dealer has 0 in stock

edit in case anyone wants the info this is upper/lower hose for GC2400
upper radiator hose 4264878M1
lower radiator hose 4264879M1
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#4  
new upper hose on hand, lower on order. 67$ total from local dealer.
no luck online except for some ebay listings and actual massey dealers. shipping would have been 15$ so going local dealer and waiting 2 weeks for lower (no damage, on hand just in case) was cheaper.
always check multiple sources and find out shipping before pulling the trigger.
anyways new glow plugs in hand, they are approx 1/8" shorter than the 14yr old ones but slightly thicker on the actual element. and all 3 passed meter tests which is better than that #3 plug.
tractor not started in 3 days, will know within the hour how good they work.

for example, my hydraulic filter 4265229M92 is 40$ at dealer. on amazon oem filter is 45$ no shipping.
at Lindstroms it is 39$ PLUS SHIPPING.
driving 30 miles round trip (total fuel cost 3$) and grabbing from local dealer.
ALWAYS triple check crap.
 
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   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#5  
:) YAY
ambient temp, where sitting, 36 deg F. in past would need glow plugs 45 seconds throttle 1/2 way to crank a lot then start and smoke a lot.
now throttle 1/4 (approx 1400 warmed up today) plugs for 15 seconds (remember first 5 seconds don't do anything) cranked 6 times running and a small puff of smoke.

by moving the upper rad hose up further on t-stat housing I gained a solid 3/4 inch clearance between hose and airbox that does not change at any rpm. let it run full bore 20+ minutes to check for leaks since moved, all good.

next tuesday and wednesday I will be in low teens for temp, possibly 10 deg. normally I would plug block heater in for 30 min but will not do that to get better testing of new plugs.
and got 2 that pass meter tests on hand if ever needed.
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#6  
learn from my errors.
on GC2300/2400 (and I think 1705/10 as well as 172x series) when removing the hood do not go for the first bolts you see. the 2 shoulder bolts that go into bracket bolted to frame.
you will regret it.
rather latch hood crawl under look up at the 2 hinge to frame bolts (14mm in my case) sitting between the hood and bumper.
pull them.
trust me.
I went wrong way. reinstalling and lining up hood took longer than the whole procedure.
by that I mean removing hood, removing air box, removing bracket, swapping out glow plugs, reinstalling bracket,reinstalling air box took less time than just reistalling hood due to my error.
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400 #7  
Seems like I figured that out a while ago -- remove the wrong bolts and you have a lengthy re-alignment process. Sounds like you're like me, always learning the hard way! I believe I have a permanent dent in my butt from kicking myself there so many times.... Glad you got it fixed. (I replaced my upper hose last year; have the lower, but it still seems fine.)
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I thought about trying to kick my own a$s over this. in past years I was able to do this. too old now, would injure myself :)
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400
  • Thread Starter
#9  
fixed it just in time up to 6" wet snow due monday. anyways blower mounted, starting issue fixed, all thats left is to toss the cover over it today or tomorrow.
 
   / Changing Glow Plugs 2010 GC2400 #10  
My blower's ready, but I'm leaving the FEL on for now -- the bucket is much better for removing this early-season wet stuff. Takes longer, but I'm also not putting rocks through the blower. Living on a dirt road tends to be rough on the blower until the ground really freezes....
 
 
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