Changing fuel filters on 6500

tholder85 · Apr 12, 2011

Okay, guys and gals,
I am about to change my fuel filters on my 6500 and I wanted to see if there are any tricks I need to know about as far as getting the system primed back up after changing the filters? I am coming from a Ford 4000 that you had to bleed at the injector pump and all three lines at the injectors in order to get the air out and get it to running again. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

manganos · Apr 12, 2011

I just changed my filter (non spin on) and it was easy. I pre-filled the new filter/housing and screwed it on and started up the tractor just fine. I didn't see a lever to turn the fuel off either. Just spun off, no fuel spilled really, put new filter in housing, fill, housing, spin on and started!

*EDIT this was on my 2516, sorry*

cowsmowmygrass · Aug 25, 2012

I ask same question.
Sitting here in my easy chair with the new paper fuel filter 0010081778R93 trying to put it in the freshly cleaned aluminum housing. Online because I didn't pay attention when I took out the dirty filter. Which end is up? This filter has open paper on one end like the end of a roll of toilet paper. The other end has a metal cap. I think the metal cap goes up? But, I'm not reinstalling and cranking Big Red before I'm sure.

rustyjeep · Aug 25, 2012

I think your correct, that's the way they are on my 7520

cowsmowmygrass · Aug 27, 2012

My attempts at replacing the filter with the part number 001081778R93 was unsuccessful. The filter has a felt grommet on the open end that seems to be the amount of distance I was prevented from pushing the filter up into the housing.
Slept on it. Put on my reading glasses, got in good light and viewed into that can. There was what possibly was the lower felt grommet from the old filter corroded and stuck in there. After careful extraction the old grommet came out and this WAS the distance needed to seat the new filter into the housing. AH! Big Red running again.
BUT, it only ran for about 20 minuted before missing and belching the gray smoke again. Another fuel clog?
I have replaced the in-tank screen filter and the primary can filter. Next, is the secondary can filter? This would be no big deal, just a repeat of the primary filter, BUT there is a tagged wire attached to the bolt on top of the filter. This must be to indicate when this filter bolt is ever removed. Well, I have to remove it to change the filter. The warranty is over anyway, so I see no harm.
Here I go again.

cowsmowmygrass · Aug 27, 2012

Frustration for days as I have been diagnosing and changing fuel filters.
Now, the frustration becomes fear of serious problem.
Let me review the current situation:
1. All fuel filters I know of are brand new. 1 in-tank screen, 2 can filters
2. Fuel flows through all the way through the lines from tank to last banjo bolt on top of injection pump. The stream is steady. Every fuel checkpoint and banjo bolt sprays fuel when I break it open and hand pump.
3. Engine starts, runs fine, accelerate to PTO 540 rpm. Brush hog for 10 minutes and then sputtering and gray smoke. Once I continued until engine died. I opened hand pump. Resistance was on the upstroke, not the down. Continued pumping. Heard gurgling from fuel tank.
4. To test fuel cap venting, I left cap open and tried again. Finally, started. Ran 10 minutes brush hogging, then sputtering and smoke again. Must not be fuel cap.
Now what?
Does it sound like a vapor lock? What can cause a vapor lock?
Eager to hear any diagnostic theory and idea.
Darryl

BobG_in_VA · Aug 28, 2012

Pretty sure you have a vacumn in the fuel tank after your 10 run...when I got my 6000 way back in early '03, I noted that every time I put fuel in it, I noted a vacumn when I undid the cap...It never shut down though...maybe douse the cap in alcohol or "steam"/blow it out with high pressure air hose...let us know...BobG in VA